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Old Jun 11, 2005, 8:36 PM   #1
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Hi to everyone! I just got a Pentax DS. I am looking at the LX SD-11 screen which is clear no matte, would come in handy in astrophotography and situation where grainy texture from the screen affects focusing. The only reason I ask is that pentax seem to keep some dimensional similarity in their camera. Like The hotshoe cover and eyepiece cap on the DS are identical to some of their SLR. Of course the hotshoe cover on say an SF-1 will fit on the DS but will prevent the flash from retracting. The DS hotshoe cover will not quite correctly fit on a Program Plus but the eyepiece cap fits well. One experimental solution could be to buy the standard af matte screen and carefully polish it smooth. Or a safer route is to get an eyepiece magnifier Like the 2X FB to get a more accurate focus. So what do you folks think am I nuts? Any advice.

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Old Sep 10, 2005, 12:43 AM   #2
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¬*Finally got the screen from japan. The polishing worked well and view using an old takumar 70-200 f4¬* in low light exhibits no graininess. Issue encountered in full manual. Lens not on A setting on aperture ring and dial is at M. Metering via AE-L button does not¬* appear to meter properly. Image overexpose. Focussing manually is very difficult as view is so clear.Funny lag in focussing.¬*Auto setting seems to work fine. Replacement of original screen restore full function. Hopefully solve issues. More detail test to come
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Old Sep 30, 2005, 6:29 PM   #3
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Hi Thinsection I would be very interested in any further results I also have a ist DS and I'm trying to find a way to get a better screen for Macro work:idea: I have installed a LL-60 screen which was dicribed as split screen focus but it was all matt with just different framing lines and not as I had hoped like my old pentax super A split screen
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Old Oct 3, 2005, 2:22 AM   #4
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Sorry been busy at the lab. Since I don't know anyone else that has tried polishing a screen on a DS all my finding are unique until someone else verifies them please take them for what you think they are worth.¬*To polish I used aluminum oxide powder¬* 0.05 micron and a pad similar to billiard¬* cloth. A regular sheet of white paper is about 90-100 micron. ¬*Any lapidary shop should be able to help you out in finding cloth. If you like a company name they are Buehler and Struers who make polishing pads/polishing compound. 0.3 micron should also work. Anything above 1 micron I would stay away from. So, which side¬* to polished?¬*Try the flat side first as it is much easier, polishing a curve surface is tricky using your hands. From my crude understanding¬* which hopefully is somewhat right, there are two side to the screen, one has concentric circular groves cut into the curve side called a Fresnel, normally pointing down to the mirror. The opposite side is frosted, containing micro-prism and is flat. In combination they diffract and focus the light causing objects to go in or out of focus.¬* Having polished only the flat frosted side the Fresnel remained. De-focusing a focused subject on either side say 4 feet still looks fine. Hence manual focus issue.¬* A work around is to wait for the green focus indicator on the bottom menu bar,¬* the red one blinks on and off but the green one should remains solid until it blinks out. If not, the picture is out of focus. I can still see the Fresnel circular groves but not in normal situation on the regular screen I cannot see it at all. Polishing the Fresnel side and the flat side may not be a good idea as changing the curvature and thickness may result in a focus point no longer similar to the film plane.¬* Also note the fine 0.05 particle are hard to remove from the Fresnel grove even with ultrasonic cleaning, mine are not yet fully cleaned after 5 attempts. I hope this answer some of your question.
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