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Old Jul 31, 2006, 1:43 AM   #11
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How it's possible for you to get paid for this is easily understood!

Kjell
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Old Jul 31, 2006, 5:03 AM   #12
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Nice shots Ira.

I have had a nightmare couple of weeks, everything I seem to shoot is drab and out of focus or over exposed...aaarrrrggh

I had my dad's 70th birthday the other night and decided on using ISO400, Sigma EX 28-70 F2.8 AF lens with my Sigma EF 500DG flash with an omni bounce diffuser on TTL mode. Half the shots were over exposed, never had that before and focus hunting all over the place.

In the end I went to manual mode and started messing with flash compensation to get things back in order. I managed to get about 10 good shots out of the lot...Not happy.

So having said that I am glad you are getting some good shots. I think I need to go back to scenery shots and leave the people portrait shooting to the pros hehehe

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Old Jul 31, 2006, 5:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
The sample below was altered by creating a blurred layer and then erasing it from details such as eyes and lips in order to keep skin texture smooth.
I'd give the bride a little more contrast/brightness in this one.
Other than that, nice shot, I like the "glamour" style

TDN
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Old Jul 31, 2006, 6:08 AM   #14
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TDN, I have attached the photo as it looked before I softened it.

Crashman, I use no high tech flash equipment. My regular flash is an ancient Vivitar 285 with a remote sensor on a stroboframe

My "studio" setup is a $100 kit comprized of two OPUS 40 Ws slave strobes with stands and umbrellas (don't try large groups with this). And this shoot was with the Pentax 18-55mm kit lens. I did cheat a little by using a Sekonic L308 flashmate to meter the studio lights. All of my flash work was with the camera set on manual, shutter speed 1/100 and aperture as dictated by the flash. I think that sometimes too much automation just gets in the way and slows the whole process. Better luck in future.

Ira
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Old Jul 31, 2006, 11:51 AM   #15
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Monza76 wrote:
Quote:
TDN, I have attached the photo as it looked before I softened it.

Crashman, I use no high tech flash equipment. My regular flash is an ancient Vivitar 285 with a remote sensor on a stroboframe

My "studio" setup is a $100 kit comprized of two OPUS 40 Ws slave strobes with stands and umbrellas (don't try large groups with this). And this shoot was with the Pentax 18-55mm kit lens. I did cheat a little by using a Sekonic L308 flashmate to meter the studio lights. All of my flash work was with the camera set on manual, shutter speed 1/100 and aperture as dictated by the flash. I think that sometimes too much automation just gets in the way and slows the whole process. Better luck in future.

Ira

Sorry to be dense, but what is this "remote sensor"? It looks like you have the *istDL, which is the same as my L2. Does this setup give you full auto flash? In other words, how does this setup work?

Darren
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Old Jul 31, 2006, 12:07 PM   #16
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Darren this is NOT a TTL flash, the unit labelled Vari-Power you see in the hot shoe of my DL is the flash's sensor so the flash itself can be anywhere within reach of the coiled cord. I find this a very reliable flash setup, you simple set the camera (on M )to it's sync speed ( I just use 1/100) and set the aperture according to the settings on the flash (for distance required and ISO) and then fire away. The flash is over 20 years old afterall. Simple and effective.

Ira
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Old Jul 31, 2006, 2:15 PM   #17
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Ah! I see. That is what I have been playing with using my old Miranda flashgun with a pc sync cable.

More playing is necessary for consistent results!

Thanks for the info.



Darren


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Old Jul 31, 2006, 10:13 PM   #18
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The Vivitar was not used for the examples I have shown here, instead I used two OPUS 40 lights with stands and umbrellas as shown in the picture below. These are not very powerful lights, I borrowed a set of 250Ws monolights from a friend to do the group shots, but they are excellent for single portraits or couples. I also used a Sekonic L-308 meter to set the correct exposure with these manual lights. The great thing here is the flexibility, simply moving one light closer or farther away creates a lighting ratio, use them with the umbrella for soft light, without for harsher light or remove the diffuser from the unit to create very hard light indeed. You can even mount one in a table lamp so that it will fire as a slave and give the impression of available light (a trick I saw in a book a while back).

I hope to get into more portrait work in time, I do not usually post any portraits here because I have not asked permission to do so from my subjects (and I haven't done much except for candid work, a couple of small (very small) contract jobsand weddings. This is all new to me, the first time I used a proper professional lighting system was in May of this year and this wedding was my first use of one on my own.

Here is the picture I promised:


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Old Jul 31, 2006, 10:18 PM   #19
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Here is one of the large group shots, this was lit with a Bowen 250Ws monolight and an OPUS 250, both with umbrellas used as reflectors on light stands. It was metered with the Sekonic meter and shot at ISO 200, 1/100 second and f11. My lack of experience resulted in some shadows, but nothing too distracting (hard to deal with all those raised beers.

BTW, Kjell, thanks for the vote of confidence.

Ira



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Old Aug 1, 2006, 12:55 AM   #20
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Good photo. It gives the impression of a posed candid, being captured at exactly the right time.



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