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Old Aug 22, 2006, 3:37 PM   #161
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ahhh, i see mate. no you wouldn't.. what would the new job entail??

roy
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Old Aug 22, 2006, 5:42 PM   #162
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International peace keeping/monitoring/policing. Regional development/assistance/policing in a variety of countries.

I think we are going off topic a bit here, sorry Sarah.
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Old Aug 23, 2006, 2:45 PM   #163
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Not a problem at all, Crash-

I just hope that it is bigger, better, and something that you are really look forward to in your busy life.

MT/Sarah
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Old Aug 23, 2006, 3:15 PM   #164
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A little off topic but I am currently getting a second Vivitar 285 flash, what I need then is a mount that will allow me to place a hotshoe flash and umbrella on a light stand. The Vivitars have a guide number of 120 in feet at ISO 100, the Opus slaves are only 80. My Opus mounts won't work because they are screw in sockets, the opus slaves screw into a standard light bulb socket.

When I finish getting all of the parts together I will have two tall light stands with Vivitars and reflecting umbrellas, a shorter light stand with an Opus slave unit and a home made snoot for a hair light, an old Braun manual flash unit and slave on a table top tripod as a rear light, two old projection screens as reflectors and another Opus slave for whatever (putting one in a table lamp in your picture makes an interesting effect. The neat part is that the battery powered Vivitars will mean I have a truly portable two light setup. The Sekonic Flashmate will set my exposures.

It will be fun playing with this setup, as soon as I clean out the basement room for a portrait studio and get those parts. Anyone know of a source? Crude but effective, I like it.

Ira
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Old Aug 23, 2006, 4:23 PM   #165
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FBA as well as LBA, and he's dabbling in ABA

i know a good doctor ira...

roy
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Old Aug 24, 2006, 3:11 AM   #166
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No Ira, you WERE back on Topic, it was me who was off topic. :lol:

Try these places, nothing fancy, but they appear cheap and I hope not nasty.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Photo4u2s-...Q3amesstQQtZkm

and here

http://stores.ebay.com.au/2DreamMake...Q3amesstQQtZkm

Crash
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Old Aug 24, 2006, 7:42 AM   #167
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Ira, I've seen you mention the Vivitar 285 before - I was told this was too powerfull for the ist digitals.

Crash good luck with your new job - sounds like you've been enlisted - perhaps a UN Force somewhere.
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Old Aug 24, 2006, 8:12 AM   #168
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nlp239 wrote:
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Ira, I've seen you mention the Vivitar 285 before - I was told this was too powerfull for the ist digitals.
Here is the 285 on my DL, trigger voltage was about 10V BTW.


And here is a sample shot with this setup (rotated and resized but totally unprocessed):


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Old Aug 24, 2006, 10:26 AM   #169
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Thanks Ira,that's exactly the one I have. Dang.

I tried using it last week but can't find the AC adapter for it, don't know if I ever had one. Its been sitting there for so long it won't work with batteries. Contacts look clean.

Q: Do flashes die if they haven't been used for a number of years?


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Old Aug 25, 2006, 2:21 PM   #170
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mtclimber wrote:
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Well, let's begin The Flash Thread-

Lesson 1

As the title and sub titlesay, we will will be doing this in small easy to understand posts. I have a DS on hand to work with now, and should have a DL and a K100Dto work within thenext week to two weeks. In that way, we will be able to cover all of the current Pentax DSLR cameras on the market today.

While we will focus this thread on Pentax DSLR cameras only, you can logically see that a lot of the information will be be discussing will be transferable in some ways to other cameras and flash units. I plan to move slowly and want to encourage as many questions as you might desire to ask on the Pentax DSLR/Flash topic. So please keep your questions on topic. There are plenty of other threads on the Pentax forum/folder to ask non-flash questions. Or you can begin a total new thread to seek an answer to your question if it does not concern Pentax Flashes

The DSbuilt-in flash is our logical starting point, because the new buyer will soon after his or her camera purchase face the need to use the camera's built-in flash. For the record, the built-in flash on the DS, DL, and the K100D works just about the same.

For those who use the "Auto Pict"selection on the theMode Selector, or those who use the "P", TV", or "AV" selection on the Mode Selector but never change to ISO from the minimum setting of ISO 200, you must keep this important fact in mind.

The Flash Range, which is defined as the distance from the camera's flash to your subject, measured in feet will be limited to certain fixed distances.The camera's built-in flash will over expose (creating a very washed out, white-ish looking looking image) when used at a distance of .7 meters, or about 2 feet or less. The camera's built-in flash will alsounder expose (creating a dark, blackish looking photo, where your subject can not be clearly seen due to heavy shadowing and darkening in the photo) when the flash to subject distance exceeds 12 feet.

Note also that there is also anotherissue to contend with when using the camera's built-in flash. That is lens compatibility. Naturally, the camera will work, as advertised, with the two so called "kit" lenses, the 18-55mm lens and the 50-200mm lens. However, if you are using an older lens you will want to check the lens compatibility chart located on page 151 of the DS manual (if you have a DL or the K100D camera, the compatibility list may be on a different page in your camera's manual), as the lens you are usingmight not function in the way you are expecting. So please sure to check if you are using an older lens. Generally speaking, when you are using non A lenses, the built-in flash will fire at full power. That might cause over exposure.

The final issue we must deal with before beginning to use the camera's built-in flash is that it is recommended that any lens hood be removed. The is done to achieve an even light distribution throughout your photo.

Is you have selected "Auto Pict" on the Mode Selector Dial, the camera's built-in flash will automatically pop up when needed for a photo. However, you must be careful not to be fooled by the flash. In the "Auto Pict" mode you have no choice, the flash is going to fire not once but TWICE. Yes, that is correct. The flash fires the first time for red eye reduction, and then second time to take the photo. Therefore if you seethe firstflash in the viewfinder,and lower the camera, you will take a picture of your foot when the camera's built-in flash fires the SECOND flash that takes the actual photo.

If you have selected P on the Mode Selector Dial, you will have FIVE different flash options. The word AUTO with the lighting bolt (meaning flash) through it, will give you straight automatic flash. The camera's built in flash will fire onlyONCE, not TWICE. The camera (when you push the Shutter release) will measure the surrounding or ambient light in your photo scene, the built-in flash will automatically pop up, and the camera will discharge only the amount of light needed for your photo situation.If the flash is already raised or deployed, the camera will not fire the camera's built-in flash when the camera's light measurement indicated thatthe built-in flash wasnot needed due there being sufficient light in your proposed photo scene.

But you must understand that the auto flash can be fooled. If there is backlighting (light that hits the side or back of your subject's head, leaving their face shadowed and not clearly visible) there will be sufficient light so that the camera's light measurement will signal the built-in flash, and it will NOT fire. The result is that the camera has computed everything based the harsh side or backlighting and your subject's faces will be heavily shadowed or just not visible at all. So it is up to you to identify your photo's lighting when using auto flash. Therefore, I will say this: You have been warned.

The next flash mode that your flash is capable of is indicated by just a single lighting bolt alone, or all by itself (remember that the lighting bolt is a symbol for flash). This mode has three or more names. Some call it the "Flash On" position. The camera manual calls it the "Manual Discharge Mode" positio. And finally a lot of folks, refer to this mode as "Fill Flash." No matter what the name, they are all the same thing.

The camera's manual nomenclature is probably the best description. When your camera's built-in flash is in the Manual Discharge Mode, it will not pop up automatically, and if the camera's built-in flash is not manually poped up, or if it is subsequently retracted, the flash will not fire in the Manual Discharge Mode.

The last three built-in flash modes available only in the P, Tv, and Av modes are easily understood. The first simply addsa preliminary red eye reduction flash to the auto flash. The second simply adds the preliminary red eye reduction flash to the manual discharge mode. The third is the Flash off mode. This is indicated by the flash symbol (the lightening bolt) with a diaoginal line through the lightening bolt.

So keep in mind one other little built-in glitch. If you manually deploy the flash rather than letting the flash pop up by itself in the"Auto Pict",P, TV, or Av Modes, the flash will fire at full power with out and reduction created through measuring the ambient light in your proposed photo.

So there is your first installment. Let me know if it is clear enough, and whatever questions that you have about just the camera's built-in flash, as we add more lessons, the possible questions will naturally also increase.

MT/Sarah
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