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Old Aug 30, 2006, 4:47 PM   #11
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gfurm wrote:
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very nice shot, I like this coloured lights.

Ira: do you think ND grad filter put upside down would work better?
Worth a try.

Ira
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Old Aug 30, 2006, 5:32 PM   #12
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Thanks for the advice! I did try some with less exposure to reduce the glare but Ira, as you mention, the cloud effect was reduced and the houses in the foreground were darker- I really liked the clouds. I also found the AF didn't really work and my manual focussing is probably not very good which is maybe why the boats are a bit out of focus.

It's the view from our apartment - very lucky in Australia to have so many good water views!

I'll play around with the settings and post a couple more as I definitely appreciate the advice.

This is what Crashman explained to me which got me started (by the way I'm using a K100D with a tripod):

Bob

These are timed exposures, simply adjust your TV setting (shutter) downwards it will go right down then start showing a " symbol, it is now showing seconds, you can continue all the way through to "30 which is 30 secs.

Select the Fn button and push up to select the remote menu etc, select 3 secs, this allows you to hit the exposure button and 3 secs later the shutter goes off,(this way you don;t shake the camera with yuor hand.

Depending on how long you have set the shutter for, I find most can be completed in under 20 secs, start off at 15 sec and keep taking shots until you get the right exposure, usse 5 secs brackets, ie. 15, 20, 25, 30 secs etc.

Obviously you will want to have your camera on a tripod. I also use a remote cord and a Infrared remote and simply count. Usually only use these if i am doing very long exposres over the max 30sec you can set on camera.

Be advised the camera will take the same anount of time to process the image. ie. 15 sec exposure followed by 15sec of filtering, thats how it gets rid of hot pixels etc. 1 min exp 1 min filtering.

Try to use a good f stop say f6 or there about to get best sharpness of your lens and best DOF, depending on th elavailable light you should get it under 30 secs

1st shot, f5.6, 18mm at 20.9sec, ISO 400 used the hand held cord remote
2nd shot, f5.6, 18mm at 50.8sec, ISO200, again hand held remote.

Lately I use ISO400, sometimes 800, all now under 30secs, if you need to open up your aperture, just try to focus out to infinity to help the DOF.

Hope this helps

Crash

_____Original Message_____
From: bobinoz
Date: 2006-08-21 02:21:50
Subject: The pictures you posted in the "good walk around lens?" thread.

I love 'em -they're great! Now, I have that lens but have no idea how to take pictures like that. Would you mind sharing the ISO, shutter speed and aperture you used to get those - and any other hints.

Thanks in advance!

Bob







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Old Aug 30, 2006, 5:42 PM   #13
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bobinoz: if you turn off noise reduction in custom settings 15 sec exposure will take exactly 15 sec. and I didn't see any difference between NR on and off so I have it off all the time.

and maybe your shot is a little blurred because you didn't turn shake reduction off. it's trying to compensate for shakes which are not there if you using tripod so it should be off (at least that how it worked with my FZ 10, but I think general principle is the same, SR off when on tripod).

greg
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Old Aug 30, 2006, 9:37 PM   #14
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Bob, I would redo the shot, but drop your aperture down to say f8 or f11, this will give you better depth of field and a more sharper setting on your lens. Very few lenses arre shgarp when wide open.

Also set focus to infinity and back off a fraction.

I am not familiar with the ins and outs of the SR on the K100D so if you are shooting with SR on, try taking it off.

Do two shots, use a cable release if possible, becasue with f8 or f11 you might need to expose upto 2 mins. Do one as you have done and one with less time.

Then try photoshopping the two images to put in the lights of the underexposed image over the overexposed/blown out lights. I hope this makes sense.

Crash
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Old Aug 30, 2006, 10:47 PM   #15
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Crash,

I tried dropping down the aperture but this darkened the photos and I lost the cloud effect - but I wasn't awae you could go past 30 seconds which seems to be the longest setting in manual mode. Howdo you keep it open for longer?

When you say focus to infinity, I'm assuming you mean focussing out as far as it will go (which leaves objects that are close out of focus - right?). By backing off do you mean move backwards? Unfortunately my balcony isn't that big so not much room to manoeuvre.

I did have the SR off - found that hint in the manual. Not sure about cable release - assume I can get one of these at the local camera store and there are some instructions in the manual?

I don't have Photoshop. Currently just use Picassa to fill light and do basic fixes of contrast, colour and to sharpen up. I haven't really explored it but I don't think it has the ability to combine 2 images. I also have the Pentax software which came with the camera but I haven't tried it. Is photoshop much better than these 2(and is it reasonably easy to use)?

Many thanks in advance for your help (and patience with basic questions!).

Bob

ps the camera is actually my wifes but she doesn't want me taking over her hobby so I'm taking advantage while she's away on work. I've just replaced her stolen Pentax 70-300mm zoom with a 100-300mm EX f4 APO lens from US ebay. Ended up a bit pricey but apparently it's a great lens. Will post some pictures assuming it arrives!


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Old Aug 31, 2006, 12:26 AM   #16
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You will be surprised by the DOF you will have at f/11, have a play and you will realise how much you can have in focus. If you up your ISO to say 800, you should be able to get your exposures down to 30sec or less with f11.

By setting your dial to B (Bulb)you can dial in the aperture and then simply push the shutter release. The shutter will remain open for as long as you hold it down.

This is where you need a cable remote release. It plugs in the aside of the camera and the pentax one has a lock on it to allow you to leave it open without having to hold it.

Trying to do a manual Bulb shot without a remote will more than likely cause camera shake.

If you want to make your own there is a thread here on the forum.

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=80

crash
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Old Aug 31, 2006, 1:20 AM   #17
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It's a very interesting shot. I think that it was framed well. Good detail, especially in the foreground. I like the boats in the water and you captured them well. However my main concern is that this photo is over exposed. The right side of the photo is so glaringly bright that it really hides alot of the details of the shoreline. It also makes the photo difficult to look at on the computer screen. I would suggest you try some shorter exposure times. Other than that, I think you definitely have a photo worthy of developing and putting in a frame. =)
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Old Aug 31, 2006, 6:55 PM   #18
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This was one taken at f11 30 secs. More wind tonight which I think accounts for the blur due the boats moving.

Also switched off noise reduction and you can see the difference....




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Old Aug 31, 2006, 7:10 PM   #19
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Same view during the day....
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Old Sep 1, 2006, 10:35 AM   #20
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Definately appears sharper to me.
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