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Old Jul 11, 2006, 7:23 PM   #11
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Old Jul 12, 2006, 4:05 PM   #12
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ZAKD wrote:
I understand the point and I'm still very interested in studio strobes and I think that could improve my work much more. That is why I need your comments over these:

1. Can I use External flash on camera shoe instead of studio strobes for same effect. I see external flash like Metz 54 MZ 4i as affordable for me or even Canon spidelite 430EX or 580EX

2. Do I need external flash to make that xcync (sinchronation) with strobes or better say to activate strobe in the moment of pushing shooting button on camera or there is other way

3. Is it enough one strobe with umbrella as "studio strobe" to use for a small room like 3x4 square meters.

Thanks Zak
1. Yes you can use an external flash off camera. I have a 430EX that I use that way. Here's what you need: first a hot shoe adapter since the 430EX doesn't have a PC sync connectionexample: http://www.adorama.com/FAPCHSA.html?...&item_no=4Second, I think you're shooting with a XT/350D so there's not a pc sync on the camera either. Thus you'll need one of these: http://www.adorama.com/FAHSPCA.html?...amp;item_no=20notice the little connector sticking out. Use that connecter to attach a PC sync cable between the camera adapter and flash adapter (couldn't find any examples of the cable on-line - should be about US$10 for 15ft.) If you use a flash with a built in sync connection like the Sunpak 383, you won't need the first adapter. http://www.adorama.com/SU383.html?se...&item_no=3

These days instead of a cable, I use a radio slave to trigger my lights - http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Radio-Sl...QQcmdZViewItem

2. The sync will happen automatically once the camera and flash are connected (with the above adapters). Again, if you are shooting with an XT/350D, the max sync shutter speed is 1/200th. I usually use that shutter speedin manual mode "M"and adjust my apeture/lights accordingly until I get the right exposure. (A light meter helps but is not necessary. You can judge by the LCD and histogram on your camera.)

3. You can use one strobe with umbrella for that size room - a 200-300WS (watt sec) light should be plenty. The 430EX or Sunpak 383 would also be fine.) The only thing you may want to add is a reflector to fill the shadow side of your subject a little. A 42' round silver/white reflector should be plenty. http://www.adorama.com/LTPR42SW.html...amp;item_no=45

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Old Jul 13, 2006, 11:23 AM   #13
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Hi Peter and thanks very much for this reply as I was allready giving up that someone willgive me thatkind of information.

I'm not familiar with strobe work at all so this really hepls a lot specially as you are with the same camera as I'm.

Will study everything you been telling me with all possible investment and will see if I can afford........

Thanks once again.......
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Old Jul 13, 2006, 2:52 PM   #14
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Sorry was not looking here for today

You can alot with strobes, look at the DVD from Nikon on the Speedlight systems and be amazed what can be done without studio strobes.

HOWEVER I'm still a great fan of studio strobes although they are heavier to carry arround, I can't get used to setting the lighting exact as I want with normal flashes off camera.

Actually you can use everything you want, from available light to strobes and even onboard flashes, the key ingrediƫnt is seeing the light (most important the shadows), when you know what you want you can do it with almost anything.

I often learn my students to work with one light and a modifier and do the same with 7 flashes
It's just the way you aproach the situation.

Off camera sync cables are ideal, I use one for my 580EX which I will often handhold to get a better lightfall than on camera.

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