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#1 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 429
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A few shot from a local event. I had a Great time can't wait to go again!
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 429
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 429
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 429
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 824
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Interesting action shots, but they're really too big for posting on a site like this; you can't see them all without scrolling.
On a technical note, you didn't mention what camera/lens you used, but several of them appear out of focus or with overall camera shake (more the former than the latter, I think); and the first two are good examples of what happens when you try to enlarge shots beyond the capabilities of the lens/camera--there is really terrible chromatic aberration everywhere in #1 (slightly less but still significant in #2), plus what looks like possible sensor dust on the left side (whatever it is, it should be cloned out). There are really high-contrast shots and I would try giving them a bit less exposure, or toning them down with photoshop or psp, etc. Action shots like this are difficult to do, so stick with it. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2005
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Here is a smaller version of the first shot. no real PP done. Need to learn more about how to get elements to work when get time. Any sujestions or tips are welcome. I use a Panasonic FZ20.
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#7 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 71
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Most people adjust the exposure compensation to -1/3 or -2/3 with this camera. It has a real tendency to overexpose. If you look at the whites in your pictures most of them have no detail. In this forum they usually call this blowing the highlights. Keep trying you can get it right, it just takes practice, practice and more practice.
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
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In this forum, although not strictly enforced (too many posts, not enough time), we ask that a specific image you want critiqued be posted (versusmultiple images).
This helps to keep the threads on topic, with more focused critiques. Forum Guidelines for the Critiques and Techniques Forum Note guidelinenumber 4: Quote:
Note that others miss this guideline, too (very often), and we often miss these threads. I just happpened to take a look at this one. If you have a specific image you'd like others to critique, please feel free to post it here (and if you have more than one you want critiqued, start more than one thread, keeping it to one image being critiqued per thread). If you are looking for more general comments (versus getting a critique on a specific image),feel free to visit some of the other Post Your Photos Forums. Thanks for understanding. I have not examined the images in detail, and I'll stick to what "stuck out" when I saw the first one. There is a lot of purple fringing (and/or blooming), with even more unsightly Chromatic Aberrations going on here (for example, the red fringes). You may want to visit our Editors (Photoshop, etc.) Forum and ask for some tips on cleaning it up. I see you're using a Panasonic DMC-FZ20, and this photo appears to have a lot more CA (Chromatic Aberrations) than I normally see in photos from this camera. Are you using any lens accessories (Teleconverters, filters, etc.)? If so, they may be causing some of it (anytime you add another piece of glass, it can cause some problems). If you aren't using lens accessories, then I don't know the reason for it (other than perhaps CCD blooming being a contributing factor due to the brightness of some image portions,or that your aperture was wide open and this modelmight dobetter stopped down some depending on focal length). I can't see any EXIF to tell the camera settings used, and other Panasonic users would probably be your best bet for figuring out if this is normal behavior or not. It could even be that camera settings are a contributing factor, as I see some things (for example, under the chin), that appear to be halos from sharpening (although not in the way I normally see them). Although this could just be blown highlights from overexposing this area (under chin). Is this a 100% cropor something (where artifacts may stand out more)? I just don't normally expect to see these kinds of artifacts, unless something else is going on. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 429
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The first image had a noise program run on it so I cropped it down and reposted it on the last picture.
[Camera] Exposure Time = 1/640" F Number = F3.7 Exposure Program = Manual ISO Speed Ratings = 100 Exif Version = Version 2.2 Date Time Original = 2005-09-16 09:17:06 Date Time Digitized = 2005-09-16 09:17:06 Components Configuration = YCbcr Compressed Bits Per Pixel = 4 Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV Max Aperture Value = F2.83 Metering Mode = CenterWeightedAverage Light Source = unknown Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode Focal Length = 72mm Maker Note = 5744 Byte Flashpix Version = Version 1.0 Color Space = sRGB Exif Image Width = 2560 Exif Image Height = 1920 Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 6652 Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor File Source = DSC Scene Type = A directly photographed image Custom Rendered = Normal process Exposure Mode = Manual exposure White Balance = Auto white balance Digital Zoom Ratio = Focal Length In 35mm Film = 432mm Scene Capture Type = Normal Gain Control = None Contrast = Normal Saturation = Normal Sharpness = Normal [Interoperability] Interoperability Index = ExifR98 Interoperability Version = Version 1.0 [Thumbnail Info] Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail) Orientation = top/left X Resolution = 72 Y Resolution = 72 Resolution Unit = inch JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 6804 JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 7455 YCbCr Positioning = co-sited [Thumbnail] |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 851
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All of the images appear soft and I see alot of chromatic aberration (blooming or halo effect). You see this in lower quality glass, not to suggest that of your equipment. The chromatic aberration is very surprising as one of the boasts of the FZ20 is its lack of that problem. Did you happen to use an adapter of any kind to increase magnification like a teleconverter?
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