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Old Nov 16, 2005, 7:19 AM   #1
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Took off this morning before 6 to try and find this Tarn.

The weather was supposed to be cold/frosty the wind chilled to the bone.

Anyway C&C welcome.

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Old Nov 16, 2005, 7:20 AM   #2
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And not a Pano
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Old Nov 16, 2005, 8:00 AM   #3
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Ok good first attempt.

Don't be despondent here, like I say good first attempt, but here is what I see.

There is really no detail in the sky, overcast or not...

I see your overlaps, light-fall off, and blur between individual frames.... so try to understand your software better. But in the end the only way you will learn work arounds to stitching problems is to do tons of panos.

Also if you cannot achieve a fairly fast shutter speed, have Image stabilizer, or have extremely steady hands, then use a tripod. Another benefit of the tripod along with alleviating a lot of stitching problems would be that you could safely bracket the shots in order to get that detail from the sky, plus that of everything else. Stitch two or three exposures together and then blend thepanos togetherlater to get the best dynamic range you can. In other words - a true representation of the scene you are seeing.

If you have used a tripod here, it might not be steady enough or you could think about a remote cable.

There are otherissues regarding the colour and contrast, composition(crop)but these are things that are better addressed once you get the pano into a believable condition. By that I mean - people viewing the photograph are not distracted by the stitch and truly believe this was taken in one exposure. I think if you were to print this, and then in subsequently larger sizes, these problems may be quite apparent.

If this was your first then, its very good. These are not always easy. However as you may have found, it is good fun too. With ever additional effort you will learn and produce better results. Everything I have said is critique where you might find you can improve, however I'm sure you are still happy with your photograph.

Take care


ps,Some other tips:

Most stitching software will allow you after the stitch has taken place, to edit the position of the photographs and the size (band) of the over laps. Now when I make a panoramic photograph, no matter how different in exposure at angle 1 is to angle say 180, I will always properly expose (and bracket, where possible) correctly for each individual location (photo)within that scene. Some think it is better to exposure lock on the average of the whole scene, which in turn will produce no exposure banding in the final stitch. However high light sources at say one end (sun) will be burnt out and low light areas at the other end will too underexposed. Unfortunatelyat this timedigital cameras cannot handle this technique due to itslow dynamic range. My work around as I have said is to properly expose for each scene, But this means as each scene is changing in exposure you need large overlaps in order for the software to blend this exposure differencetogether in an acceptable way.However if you stick with large overlaps (which is good for large areas of constant colour)your detail areas get blurred and any movements in the scene mean you see shadows and ghosts. If like I have pointed out you edit the position of the overlaps to small bands, the detail will be tight, there will be no shadows or ghosts, but you will see colour bands in your non detail areas, like sky, water and pavements etc. Also if you have any straight lines being converted to curves as the software does, small bands mean they will probably not join, if they do it will be in an unnatural way.

The answer is to make a number of panos with a differing size over lap. Tailored for the detail and the background. SometimesI have to make 3 or 4 and then layer them together. Simplistically speaking I will have one pano with large overlaps for they sky and say pavement, which Ilayer paint into a pano that is sitting underneath that has very narrow banding for the street detail (for example). This is acceptable as colour banding is not nearly as visible in high detail areas.Sometimes I bring back in individual frames from the shoot and blend/paint in individual parts also, to reduce distortion, or correct something that is blurred due to a bad stitch.I also cut the finished pano in certain locations and use the perspective crop toolto straighten buildings that have been changed by the stitching program. I then re-insert via another layer blend back into the pano. This is of course after I have selected the bestfrom my3 bracketed shots at each location and manipulated the Raw data so as its exposure and white balance is almost there. Your now starting to see the permutations.. hahaha. Its about selectively blending together. A blending/ layer painting combination in-fact. Ok so it sounds like anunbelievable amount of work, but its not that hard once you get the hang of it. Also you will produce panoramas that will be impossible to tell apart from a one exposure photograph.And second to that in general, a photograph of high dynamic range and impact.

This is the shorthand version..:-)
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Old Nov 16, 2005, 10:52 AM   #4
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Hey LB I thank you for your C&C and it is not wasted.

I did use a T/Pod & also a Panosaurus T/Pod Head (Again 1st time) but as you say PRACTICE makes perfect (We Hope).:lol:
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Old Nov 16, 2005, 12:40 PM   #5
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wow LB... if that is shorthand.....

still, that is great info LB.. everyone reading your last few posts on panos is no doubt learning a lot..

anyways, i don't really have much to add russel..just looking forward to your next attempt!


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