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Old Sep 17, 2009, 4:58 AM   #11
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Good idea but, imo,it lacks the contrast for a dramatic B&W. For the conversion I prefer decreasing the saturation rather than thicking the monochrome box for some reason. After that, first, I'd suggest you increase the amount about %15 and the radius something over %20 in the smart sharpening box good for the contrast then prepare a pseude-hdr from the original B&W so as to recover some distractingly blown areas on the 'contrasted' copy by using the clone tool. Enjoy : )

Last edited by bahadir; Sep 17, 2009 at 7:36 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 1:29 PM   #12
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Default Always good advise from bahadir!!

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Originally Posted by bahadir View Post
...I'd suggest you increase the amount about %15 and the radius something over %20 in the smart sharpening box good for the contrast then prepare a pseude-hdr from the original B&W so as to recover some distractingly blown areas on the 'contrasted' copy by using the clone tool.
Hello again, bahadir!

Your suggestion sounds great - thank you - and I gladly would do that. I follow your thoughts and see what you are trying to do (get me to do...), but again, I realise that my knowledge of Ps CSx is not up to the prescribed task. I'm not familiar enough (yet!) with the software to follow your recepie.

Creating hdr is something I usually do with Photomatix Pro 3 and not with CS. Do you mean 3 different layers - on top of each other?

I can do layers, (at least I usually do when creating the Orton-Effect), but not masks or layermasks.

Thanks again - keep on suggesting all the "remedies" you know of, because one day I'll be able to do all those things you tell me of!

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Old Sep 21, 2009, 2:37 PM   #13
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Hi, Walter! Glad my simple suggestions worked for you : ) Actually, the process I meant was simpler than you thought. Btw, I also prefer the Photomatics to Photoshop when it comes to hdr.
Now, you already have a b&w copy. Make three copies from it with different exposures at photoshop to open in photomatics for tone mapping. Save it as #1 on desktop. Then apply the kind of sharpening mainly for contrast to your original b&w in photoshop and name it #2, let's say. Next, opening #1 in photoshop again, you can either use the clone tool for the refinement session or drag this 'contrasted' original onto #1. If you take the latter, using the eraser tool and the desired amount, you can get rid of some probable blown areas in #1.
C'est tout : )

Cheers!
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