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Old Dec 18, 2007, 9:19 AM   #781
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Thanks for the replies, very handy.

TheTurk wrote:
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Converting from HD to DVD will dramatically reduce your resolution and quality so if your primary goal is to burn to DVD maybe try the CG65, I had this and it worked great for DVD, again NTSC.

Anyway, hope this helps....
That's not my main use, I'm just thinging of friends and releatives who will want DVD, I will keep a lot at HD. I have jsut discovered that we have the CG65 at work, but I've not been overly impressed with the still pitcutres on that.

I do think this PAL / NTSC is going to be an issue though, as again, friends and relatives won't all have the right hardware for playing NTSC, although I could be wrong. In any case, you still get jerky issue with a DVD player or TV doing the conversion in my opinion.

Cheers all.
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 9:53 AM   #782
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There is no reason why your footage would be jerky other than the incorrect settings for rendering. If the original file plays fine then a converted file should play exactly the same if the correct settings are selected.

As I mentioned earlier, most DVD players now play PAL and NTSC and if they dont out of the box you can get a hack on the net that enables it. Most TVs also allow both.

Again as has been pointed out on this thread many times, to get the best results out of the xacti range of cameras you must play around with the settings and learn how toachieve the best result, kind of like wooing a beautiful lady, you must take her out to dinner, buy her flowers, say nice things, act like a gentleman in order to.... well you get the idea.....

Or else tell her you are super rich and she can have anything she wants.......
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 10:38 AM   #783
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jak442 wrote:
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For those who have played with this unit a bit.

How is the manual focus? Does it feel at all intuitive, is it fast, slow, annoying?

Can you save complete configurations(white balance, iso, etc)? And how long or well do the saved inputs work? Are they gone when you remove the battery?

Does this "get by" with a class 4 SD or does it "work" with a class 4? The SanDisk Ultra II's are decently priced, but if a lesser card with a larger cap. will work then I'd rather go that way.

You can see some of the footage I shot while learning to use the camera at vimeo.com/savanapridi

What filter, if any, and why?

And the big one.... wide angle? Sanyo's, third party, barrel roll/distortion? This is a big deal to me.
First, welcome jak442. I don't usually post to forums either. I lurk, glean what I need and leave, but this forum was so instrumental in my camera purchase that I have tried to give back any information that I can.

1. Manual Focus - it's great, it's awful. You'll be hard pressed to find the wealth of manual controls that this camera offers at this price point with this quality. However, just because they exist doesn't mean that they are all that useable. But, for those of you that take the trouble to use the camera to it's full potential, you will find that some control is better than none at all. The manual focus is not active during recording. It must be set prior. Further, there are focus steps, not a full range like the zoom. I haven't counted but let's say you get around 16 focal distances. I was filming a party in Thailand that was under a roof but basically outdoors at night. The lighting was bad. The focus was hunting around. I had to shoot or miss the action. A quick joystick flip to manual focus, then step through the focus stops until things looked crisp and record button. I've gotten pretty quick on the draw with the manual focus. In 90% of the cases however I will set it on autofocus, watch the camera try to figure out the situation and then flip the joystick to lock the focus when the autofocus hits the sweet spot. Only in really low light or for certain depth of field looks have I had to resort to the manual. In short, it's not all that useful the way it's set up, but when you need it you'll be glad it's there.

2. Configurations can not be saved to the SD card so that can load different configs the way you can with say an HVX200, but the camera remembers all your last settings when you remove the battery. I don't know how long. I've had the camera for two months and it has kept my settings through all recharge and battery removals. The other nice thing is that hitting the menu button brings up the last used menu item. So, for instance, I have the joystick set to : UP = AutoFocus Lock, DOWN = Focus controls, LEFT = exposure, RIGHT = ISO. Four very useful shortcuts. I wish you could assign other controls because I'd rather have white balance as one of my shortcuts, however the great thing is that you can effectively get five shortcuts due to the way the menu button remembers your place in the menus. So, for me, the only time I'm in the menu is to set white balance so when I hit menu button it autmatically takes me to the white balance selection. And there you have it. One click to each of my most used manual features.

3. I bought 2 cheap, class 6 cards, an 8GB and a 4GB. I shot tons of footage during my three and a half weeks in Thailand and only had to download to my laptop once. I got the A-Data 8GB for about 70$ and the 4GB for 35$. They work well. I recommend a SDHC card reader. I got one for 5$ and it's much more convenient than using the camera to mount the cards. I haven't tried any other cards, and I would only want another 8GB if they dropped a lot in price. So far I'm doing fine with just the 12GB total. More than fine. I have a 16GB P2 card in my HVX200 and I can't shoot but 17 minutes of 720p without stopping everything and downloading to harddrive. If only every camera used SD cards! For the price, size, and capacity they can't be beat.

4. I mentioned this before, and further use of the camera confirms it. A UV filter for protection is always a must. Spend 20$ to save $700. I also use a polarizing filter and an ND filter. Both of these help the pretty shallow latitude between blown out whites and crushed blacks. Also, I recommend a lens hood or some type of self made shade. The huge lens is a flare magnet. Normal flares can look cinematic but this one generates a distracting blue pimple.

5. You can't do wide angle without barrel roll. You can argue the point but at $700 are you going to put glass on the camera that is worth more than the camera itself? You will need a wide angle converter. The field of view seems pretty narrow for most work. The small camera will make you want to get in small places. The sanyo semi-fish eye I haven't tried but I used a comparable converter and didn't like the distortion, but the regular wide is definitely a must buy.
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 11:32 AM   #784
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jared3105 wrote:
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for me sanyo HD1000 is good enough when shooting movies in a low lite and very dark area..here r d 2 videos sample shooting in a low lite and very low lite (dark area) http://jared3105.multiply.com/video/..._december_2007

http://jared3105.multiply.com/video/...ar_16_dec_2007
Hey Jarred, question for you, did you upload to multiply.com in 720P or 1080i? I tried that service, but 1080i gets scrumbled...720 looks quite ok.

http://vikajakub.multiply.com/video/...3ESANY0011.MP4


1080i

http://vikajakub.multiply.com/video/item/7/SANY0002.MP4
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 7:24 PM   #785
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Hey Vikajakub, i just used 720i i've got same prob with ya when editing 1080i. anyway, what software did u use 2 edit ur movie? looks clear! i'm using cyberlink powerdirector 6 @ d moment.
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 7:44 PM   #786
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Thanks so much choavanafor such a thorough response, I'll likely read it several times.

I didn't expect much from the manual focus, but it sounds like the AF stop is probably faster and easier anyway.

I'm likin the sound of programable shortcuts also. It would be nice if you could save multiple configurations but, I imagine, once you have found the settings you like for different situations, it's fairly quick and painless to get them inputed, since they're all accessed from the same control.

One of the big reasons I quickly changed my thinking from the less expensive HD1a was the glass and the threads around it, those 2 points alone are worth an extra $200 to me(60fps 720p did hurt either). And since I'm not a big fan of lense caps I'll certainly throw on a UV.

I did have 1 question... are you stacking3 filters? I know they're not high impact filters (don't have a big effect on the picture), but it seems like a lot. Of course, if the image is noticeably better then it's exactly enough isn't it?

I'm sold one this cam.... if not this year then next.

cheers
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 9:17 PM   #787
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I have a HD1000, and I'm experiencing some problems. Sometimes when I stop recording the camera freezes completely. The blue light keeps blinking, but the lcd freezes and the buttons do nothing. I have to remove and re-insert the battery to make it work again. I also lose the recording I just stopped.

I have not been able to figure out why this happens. It doesn't seem random, as sometimes it can work for ten recordings, other times it crashes four times in a row. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? I've tried two SD cards, one SDHC and one regular SD, both rated faster than required.
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Old Dec 19, 2007, 1:27 AM   #788
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jak442 wrote:
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I did have 1 question... are you stacking*3 filters? I know they're not high impact filters (don't have a big effect on the picture), but it seems like a lot. Of course, if the image is noticeably better then it's exactly enough isn't it?
I have stacked all three and it looks pretty ridiculous, especially with the lens hood to top it off. For the most part, only the UV is on. I bring out the polarizer when I am shooting something with blue sky or through glass/water that has reflections on it. I use the ND more as it really helps outdoors on bright days especially if there are a lot of white objects. It all just depends on what you need which, I'm guessing by the posts on this thread, most people will not want to bother with.

Another thing that I have found very useful is one of those five inch high tripods with bendable legs. It slips into my little camera bag with the camera, and very quickly I can set up a nice stable shot without lugging around a lot of equipment. Also great if you want to set it on a rock and film yourself without worrying that it is going to topple over.
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Old Dec 19, 2007, 9:49 AM   #789
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jared3105 wrote:
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Hey Vikajakub, i just used 720i i've got same prob with ya when editing 1080i. anyway, what software did u use 2 edit ur movie? looks clear! i'm using cyberlink powerdirector 6 @ d moment.
Hey Jared, to be honest, I did not edit. I uploaded it straight from memory card. Will play with editing today, I have Nero8 Extrime and it seems to handle HD1000 files well.
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Old Dec 19, 2007, 11:52 AM   #790
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Hi everybopdy, first of all, my english is not good enough, but i try to write down...i hope anyone may answer my question to help me.

I have read in this topic, forum and other review about HD1000, and i decide to get one. Actualy i don't use Full HD right now, in my area, DVD is more popular and most people use DVD, maybe 3 or 5 year HD will be more popular at my area.

Why do i want to get this? because it has a microphone input and if one day i move to Full HD, i can make it ... but for now i plan to make video and burn it only for DVD. I dont want get HD2a, it's older.


I also has an old PC,Intel 2.8E, 1GB RAM and vegas 7e pro, i think for create DVD it is still enough, isn't it?
as long i want to create DVD only, i think i just use the TV-SHQ 640 x 480 (30 fps, 3 Mbps) mode with this HD 1000, some day if i have a better PC, i can change to the higher resolution.
Please give me some idea about it, should i go for HD 1000 or just CG65?
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