[Recovered Thread: 42481]

[CyberShotNut]

I have had numerous people messaging me asking if I get bulrred photos with my W1, P100, T1 and other cameras. I will try to do my best in answering this question in simple terms.

OK, most people that take indoor photos usually take them in a room with some available light, but not enough light to take the photo without the flash. Let's say your camera is in P Auto or Auto mode. The camera usually sets itself for 1/40 sec. shutter speed and flash on. The reason most cameras chose 1/40 sec. for auto flash shots is to allow the flash to light up the foreground and the available light to light up the background. Making the shutter speed any faster will considerably darken the background. The strobe of the flash is much faster than the 1/40 sec. shutter speedLook atfigure 1 and 3 in the photo below, this blur is caused by motion in an area that the flash was not powerful enough to overcome the lighting in the room. Figure 2 is where the flash was the only available light the lens was able to "see" resulting in a clear blur-free image. If the room was totally dark without any other lighting or the flash was powerful enough to overpower the available room light, the entire photo would have looked like figure 2.(blur free)

So, the only real way to eliminate blur would be to: (A) increase the flash power or add a slave flash (B) get a camera with a faster lens(wider aperture) (C) increase the shutter speed(which will result in a darker background)

[nickphoto123]

Holy Christmas CyberShotNut and All,

Your statement:

"Look atfigure 1 and 3 in the photo below, this blur is caused by motion in an area that the flash was not powerful enough to overcome the lighting in the room."

has one needed clarification if I may:

Flash is approximately 1/800 sec on most flashes. Flash can freeze a MOVING subject shot at <= 1/40 second. This frozen image on your CCD (CMOS, Film) is sitting on your sensor after only 1/800 of a second of the actual 1/40 second that your lens is open for exposure.

During the remaining time of the exposure (1/40 sec Minus 1/800 sec) your sensor is absorbing the ambient light in the room. During this period your recorded image is subject to being 'painted' by this ambient light, regardless of how strong your flash level was when it was fired.

Typically I find that 1/250 sec is enough to freeze most human movement. If you had enough flash to enable using a time of 1/250 sec to obtain a proper exposure, you will not encounter the 'blur' you illustrated. (Please remenber if you used such a flash you would likely be escorted out of the concert).I would increase my ISO level to enablea higher shutter speed, along with the flash,and rely on noise reduction post capture.

All this said, your image Captured the moment, which is what we all want.

I worked a bit on your image, hope you don't mind:

[max211]

Thanks for the detailed explaination on this issue. If the W1/P100/P150 perform as any other camera in regards of motion blur caused by shutter speed, then it is good enough for me. I mean, i can understand the issue with slow shutter speed. it can be adjusted through manual override. (although it would be better if the camera can set the ideal shutter speed inauto mode) What concerns me more is the out of focus pictures. I know some camera performs better in the dark/dim lighting, and we can't expect the camera to lock focus in this situation. What i've heard is that the W1/P100/P150 pretend that the focus is already locked by the green dot but it's not. Is this true?

[CyberShotNut]

Nice job in photoshop Nick! And Max, I have had a few occasions where the focus light locked(at leas I think it did) and the photo was out of focus. I noticed this more on my W1 than any other camera I've tested and mostly with close objects in lower light conditions, but it's pretty rare. Most of my low light indoor shots like in clubs or concerts I take with manual focus as there really isn't enough light or time to let the camera focus automatically.

[Sola]

I just find that people don't have a steady hand and that's why their shots are blurred! I've had the W1, the P100, and the V3 (all from Sony) and took hundreds and hundreds of pictures with them and almost all of my shots were crisp and clear! The only time I had any blur was when I knew I moved my hand. Photograrphy is an art and an artist needs a steady hand! Whether you're shooting with a Digital Camera or an SLR, or with flash or without, you need a steady hand and you will have sharp photos!

[Meryl Arbing]

I don't have the P100 or the P150 but, I have a question.

Will either camera allow the shot to be taken BEFORE focus locks? I know some cameras will not click the shutter until focus is locked but SOME cameras (in order to reduce shutter lag) will fire the shutter any time the button is fully pressed.

If this happens with the P series, that could explain some of the other blurred shots. The AF hasn't locked when the shot was taken.

It's just a thought.

[TNT]

Meryl,

Yes, that's exactly what it is. Kinda shutter release priority of some sort...

I've summed up my solution for the W1/P100 in his thread: http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...89&forum_id=28


TNT

[CyberShotNut]

Focus Magic is a very good program to repair out of focus and/or motion blur photos. http://www.focusmagic.com/