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Mikeymx5 Oct 13, 2005 4:48 PM

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I have been waisting my life away trying to find somone that has gotten there F828 to take good IR Pictures with out perminate mods or expensive lenses. Finally I decided to see what I could do myself.

Removing the IR blocking lens was not an option but I thought what it I could just make the camera shift it out of the way when ever i wanted it to. Then all I would need is the cheaper R72 IR filter.

After opening my camera I noticed that the lense was shifted back and forth by a little motor. Al that I need to do it to take control of this motor.

To do this you must dissemble the camera so that you can get to a tiny flex board that can be seen on the side of the camera that the Night Shot and other switiches are at. This board will be screwed to the main lense section by one screw. You will have to remove the CCD and boards attached to see it.

On this board are two soldered connections that connects a top flex board to a lower one. You will notice that the top flex board wraps around to that small motor that controls the filter lense. This is connection that needs to be changed.:cool:

:!:Warning Im not responsible if you break your camera, its your fault for trying to do something that you shouldnt be doing. All electrical components in the camera can be distroyed by static electricty, so get a pro to make the mods. Last this mod is probably not possible by a cheap soldering iron, mine is a professional $250 iron with a needle tip, cheaper soldering irons will probably destroy the flex boards.:!:

:!:You will need two really small easily flexable wires, and a small off on switich.
:!:you sould never touch the board with a soldering gun for more than a second as you can bun the PCB.

:arrow:Un solder the top flex PCB from the lower one and move it out of the way, be careful not to crease the flex PCB as this can cause damage to the internal traces.
:arrow:Solder the end of one wire to the botom solder pad, it is the one that just ends and not the one that has a tiny trace that leads back to the screw hole. Do a good job you dont want anything to touch or short.
:arrow:cover the soldered wire with a tiny piece of electrical tape.
:arrow:Now resolder the flex PCB back in place using the pad that you did not attach a wire to, this is why you will need to use really thin wires. (It helped me to screw the PCB back in place before soldering.)
:arrow:Now solder the second wire to the remaining pad and cover it with a small piece of electrical tape. ( be quick so you dont melt the insulation or worse the PCB)
:arrow:The other side of the wires will connect to the simple on off switich.
:arrow:Always double check you work before reassembling the camera.

:!:Make sure all flex boards are properly seated in ther connectors, if they are not fully in the connector they can short and give you a $1K paper weight.

:arrow:I made the switich wires come out of a small hole in the case where the camera swivals not wanting to cut into my case, you can place it anywhere you can avoid it touching anything.

:|OK your done, to remove the filter lense simply set the camera in Nite mode, flip the switch and place camera back in normal mode. This will preven the camera from returing the filter back in place. To go back to normal mode just repeat the steps.:|

:cry:The only probablem that I have found with this is that auto focus is not so great in IR mode, but if you are a serious shooter and not just a perve you should ba able to operate the manual focus.

Enjoy and I know we live in America where everyone else is to blame for your stupidiy, but I take no blame for anything you do with this information, anything you do before, during or after reading this post is your fault.

Sorry no pictures during the mod I only have one digital camera and it was under the knife so I couldnt take any.

here is a shot after the mode in auto mode, all other modes with work as well.

Mikeymx5 Oct 13, 2005 4:49 PM

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Here is the normal mode so you can see it was dark at the time...

Mikeymx5 Oct 13, 2005 4:53 PM

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Here is one with Hoya R72 Filter... I think the cam was in auto mode. or P mode

I will post more pictures as soon as I take some, I have only had the mod for a day, and it is usually dark over here when I get out of the office.

hgernhardtjr Oct 14, 2005 12:51 PM

So, how (screws, locations) did you open the camera?While I have worked on many cameras over the past 4 decades, I do nothave that particular disassembly manual/instructions.

Or do you know of a web location with those instructions?

On the other hand, I have also been looking for a firmware hack to free up the hot mirror, but no one has done it yet.


Mikeymx5 Oct 17, 2005 10:52 AM

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This is the best that i have been able to find, and give up on fermware hacks there are none and Im sure sony has done everything possilbe to ensure that. Besides this hack lets you take pictures in there real colors, not the green tent colors.

The part that you need to change is just under that Green PCB.

Mikeymx5 Oct 17, 2005 12:24 PM

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Here is a shot I took this weekend, I converted it to black and white, normally it would be red using the R72 Filter.

Mikeymx5 Oct 17, 2005 12:32 PM

This is the only page that i have posted my instructions, I have no picture because I dont have a second camera, but I will try and see what I can do about getting some picks, I have to go back into my camera sometime in the near future to clean up the wiring and switich placement now that i know that Im satisfied with the mod.

Also auto focus seems to work if you leave the micro focus inabled.

Mikeymx5 Oct 26, 2005 5:34 PM

OK some updates

After using the R72 lense for a while i realised that the best IR pictures come from when the normal lense is still enabled, I get a little more color varance then just a red tint.
Its a heck of alot harder to do but worth it...

:!:Second when opening the camera back up to find a better way to mount the switch I noticed that one wire had pulled a pad loose from the flex board... It was not a problem I found it in time, but I would suggest a drop of glue on the wires after soldering them to help ensure that they dont move around and pull the pads loose.:!:

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