Well, actually, I'm very new in the photography world.

I own the DSC-W12 for about 2 months, so it's a pity if I upgrade in such a short time.

It's not that I'm going to in the couple of months, as I don't have the money.

Still, now that I quite know the basics of functions, I want more , you know?

I hardly (want to) use the flash. Not only for its red-eye, but for it's totally changing light of that what is being photographed. Like concert shots. I don't like the completely disappearing effect of all the colours of lights, because of using the flash. Now I know the flash is not the W-12's strong point, maybe other flashes don't change the whole colour situation?

There's this teacher who also make photo's of concerts, without any flash, just like me, but who has a VERY bright lens. Well it's a DSLR (a canon) with a lens of like €2000,- So, that of course is a totally different thing. The most noticable difference of his shots compared to mine is the focusing. He has a clear focus of a certain point, all the rest is not sharp:

http://www.daltondenhaag.nl/index.ph...nen_bandsavond

I don't need that high end of a camera, though.

Of all the hundreds of shots from a concert I make, there are definitely some very good ones, I must say:







So, maybe I should buy an even bigger card, and take more shots, so there will be more good ones. The problem is still there, though, when for instance, there is a One Million dollar shot, and I can't take, because it's too dark, the object moves, or whatever.

Dark shots do work well, and the ones without anything moving, of course are easy to do, without any problems:





I think the DSC-V3 will be a good upgrade, for it's MORE manual options, flash compatibility.

Is the picture size bigger? When setting it at Wide? I mean, do you see more, than with the W-12 I have now? How do you call this thing?

Everything you say is very understandable. You don't really have the budget for a dSLR and an expensive 'fast' lens.

The teacher with the dSLR and the fast lens must be shooting at the maximum aperture setting which is why he gets a narrow depth of field (where "clear focus of a certain point, all the rest is not sharp") This is typical of a lens with a large maximum aperture.

You will not get that with a point and shoot camera because most of them have cheaper zoom lenses that do not allow a very wide aperture when zoomed in (and unless you are on the stage you will need the zoom). Even the V3 which has an f2.8 lens ONLY is capable of that aperture at wide angle. If you zoom even a small amount, the maximum aperture gets smaller.

I have a possible solution but, no solution will be cheap because photography is an expensive hobby if you want the best equipment. I suggest that you get a FILM SLR instead of a digital SLR. They are MUCH cheaper AND you can use the money you save to buy a fast lens. You will find that, where ISO400 and higher on digital cameras is mostly unsuable, ISO400 and higher in film is quite acceptable

If you choose your film SLR carefully, you will be able to use the lenses you get for it on a dSLR at a later time. If you get a Canon SLR the Canon dSLR could take the same lenses.

Don't be afraid of film. It is a usable technology and, the important thing, is getting the shot. In the end, that is more important than having to look at the LCD after each exposure.

well u cant afford DSLRs at the moment.but if u want a brighter lens u can look at Cannon G6 which has a brighter lens as compared to other DCs and with this u can shoot good indoor and night pics without flash but do better look out for purple fringing which is a case with more brighter lens so u have to chenage some setings to avoid PF(different Focal values etc).

faisal sheraz
www.pbase.com/fsc1

The Sony F828 has the fastest zoom of them all (f2) and no DSLR lens come even close to a 28-200 f2-2.8. If you can not offer a DSLR with a veryexpensive lens the next best option is dsc-f828.