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#31 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 339
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CVonV wrote:
very good camera that one... pity the video and lcd isn't as good as the W1. Otherwise it kicks it in every other regard imo. Yes, I wish the video had a 640x480 mode. It is still Ok for showing on smaller TV sets, it records at 30 fps so it's smooth and not overcompressed. i took some clips just the other day and on a 19 inch screen from about 3 meters they looked good, although no question the w1 is better. The screen is indeed smaller 1.8" but it has the same pixel count as the much bigger w1 screen. It's sharper and easier to see outdoors. It is also protected behind a thick clear plastic plate unlike the w1s. For simply showing pictures to your friends it's not as good, as a picture taking and judging aid it is perhaps better. You can enlarge up to 8x, good for inspecting focus and even noise. I'd say if Ricoh upgrades the video to [email protected] card limited, adds some form of semi-manual exposure control, say exposure priority, makes it an USBmass storge device and perhaps boost the flash a bit they will have a killer compact. I'd easily pay 100 Euro more for a package like this. As it is now it is still a good competitor not my dream ultra compact but closer than most. |
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#32 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 117
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blr wrote:
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#33 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 339
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CVonV wrote:
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I'll answer your questions briefly, since this is a Sony forum if you want we can discuss morein the Ricoh forum. Flash recycle times are about average 3-6 sec depending on the distance to subject. I haven't used the Li-Ion pack, it is not included but with two 2300 mAh Kodak (Sanyo) AA cells the battery life is excellent, somewhere in the 300 shots range with LCD on. Sorry about "exposure priority" I mean aperture priority. Yes, it does need drivers for XP, it's nota mass storage class device and its USB 1.1. |
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#34 | ||
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 53
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TNT wrote:
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TNT wrote: Quote:
Imaging Resource has a series of 3 P100 pics of the same scene at different sharpness levels, on this page: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/P100/P1PICS.HTM - scroll down about halfway to where it says "Sharpness series", just below the "Far-field test". I downloaded these three images and used an Unsharp Mask (USM) to bring the Low & Normal sharpness ones up to about the same sharpness as the High. I won't post my results here as the original images are copyright, but try it yourself, it's more fun that way! The area of the image where the noise reduction (NR) artifacts really show up is the grass in the foreground. Look at the grass area bottom right, just in front of the little tree, viewing the images at 100%. The untreated low-sharpness pic is very soft and the high-sharpness one seems to bring out a fair bit of detail, but you'll notice that it's blotchy: there are spits and spots of sharpness amidst blobs of blur. Now do the USM on the low-sharpness pic: I used radius 1, amount 1.5 on The Gimp (imaging tool on Linux), but see what works for you. I found that this produced a much better result than the in-camera sharpening: it brings out detail in the grass uniformly, with none of the blotchy artifacts. In other words, just as TNT says. The normal-contrast pic, when gently USM'd to bring it to similar sharpness, is intermediate between the other two. I'd be very interested to see how well this works with skin and hair detail, which seem to suffer particularly badly from the overenthusiastic NR - see the facial portraits on the same Imaging Resource page. Can anyone provide an example, with the same subject shot at different sharpness settings and all other factors equal? Ideally post crops of unresized images. Gosh, what a long post, and it's my first one! I'll try to be more concise in future! Dave |
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