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#31 |
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I think if you want a camera that can do everything on a budget then go with a bridge camera or maybe a 4/3. If you want to use an SLR on a budget then specialise and get a very limited zoom (the kit 18-55 is fine) or a decent prime (I love my 35/1.8 for indoor natural light photos). The long end on an SLR is expensive for any sort of quality - I've got the cheap Tamron 70-300 and it was a waste of time and money. If I want that sort of reach now I'll take my FZ38, maybe with a teleconvertor which gives me better, sharper photos than the Tamron and an equivalent reach of over 800mm
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AutoHDR - Free HDR software for Windows at http://www.autohdr.co.uk on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=...36045126467361 My Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinsykes Panasonic DMC-FZ38, Sony α580 |
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#32 | |
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And for the new 18-270mm, the reviews are even better.
Yup, I've decided to go with that lens! ![]() Quote:
They think everybody is (or should be) an obssessive pixel-peeper and that you should throw away a couple of months' salary on a piece of glass! ![]() I mentioned on the other page I want versatility and also to avoid lens swapping! I've looked at plenty of reviews of the Tamron 18-270mm and it's exactly what I'm looking for, albeit it's a bit expensive, but totally worth the money!
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Sony α dSLR-A580 Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 Sony DT 50mm f/1.8 SAM Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di USD XLD Last edited by Marawder; Jan 10, 2012 at 12:38 PM. |
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#33 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington, DC, Metro Area, Maryland
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#34 |
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lens system camera can get expensive. But you really need to match a good lens to take advantage of the larger and high resolution sensor. The 18-270 is one of the best megazoom out there. And if you do not go with the PZ motor, you can save a little bit of money. It just AF a little slower, but for what you are shooting it is not a big deal.
As a student, go with allot of peanut butter and jelly sandwich with toast bread. It is worth getting the better lens with the A35. And research the best way to clean the mirror, it seems very delicate with all I have read. Sensor cleaning is easy. Invest in a good rocket blower. It is good for quick cleaning. Avoid compress air.
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Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it. Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter. Last edited by shoturtle; Jan 10, 2012 at 3:07 PM. |
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#35 | |
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But, it's still much better than the 18-200mm, which is gong to be soft at virtually all focal lengths when used with a 16MP Sensor when looking a full size images, even when the aperture is stopped down some (other than perhaps the very center of the image at some focal lengths). I've spent some time viewing albums full of images from that lens on Sony camera swith 14MP sensors, and they're all soft when looking at full resolution images (and I'd expect them to be softer on a higher resolution 16MP sensor). On a lower resolution model, you may find it to be OK if you don't care about the corners. But, on higher resolution sensors, it's just not going to be a good choice if you want to get the most out of your camera. Of course, you're welcome to disagree. But, that's my opinion of it after looking at lots of images. But, image quality is subjective, and if you don't care about anything other than web size images, you may be fine with that kind of lens. Just don't expect to see what you'd get with a better lens or lenses (even the inexpensive 2 lens kit with the 18-55mm and 55-200mm from Sony is going to produce much better results). In other words, you're wasting a lot of the sensor's resolution using optics like that on a model like the A35 in return for the convenience of an "all in one' lens design. Martin: How's the used market in the U.K. for Minolta AF lenses? If you want a lens with better than average quality at a lower price on it's longer end, you may want to see what you can find a used Minolta 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 APO (D) AF lens for. It's actually sharper on it's 300mm end compared to shorter focal lengths (very unusual design, as most budget zoom lenses are softer on their longer end). You can pick one up for around $300 on the used market in the U.S. (and I see some U.S. Vendors that have it listed for around £200 and ship to the U.K. via USPS International Priority Mail for a nominal fee). For some reason, Sony didn't carry over that lens design to it's lineup when it bought Konica Minolta, even though it's a much sharper lens compared to the 75-300mm they did rebrand (which is a very low quality lens in comparison). But, they're not that rare, and you see them listed on the used market and can still find them at good prices. Just make sure you buy the APO version of it (as the non APO version is not a very good lens), and I'd lean towards the latest APO (D) version of it to get the latest EEPROM and lens coatings for best results. |
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#36 | |
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#37 |
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I've never questioned his expertise!
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Sony α dSLR-A580 Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 Sony DT 50mm f/1.8 SAM Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di USD XLD |
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#38 | |
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We're trying to keep you from throwing away a couple of months' salary on a piece of glass! This isn't about money. If it were, you should be checking out the used market for lenses, even 18-2X0 lenses. True. You're just disregarding it. The A35 is a very good camera. One important feature of the A35, and cameras like it, is its flexibility and versatility. An important part of that is the ability to use lenses that are specifically designed to do what you want. It seems you want to sacrifice all that by saddling it with an expensive jack-of-all-trades-and-master-of-none lens, instead of rejoicing and celebrating its versatility with multiple inexpensive lenses widely available on the used market. This isn't about dust. If it were, you should be checking out cameras like the Sony HX100V (which, btw, will save you a couple of months' salary.) If you're worried about getting dust on the mirror or sensor, you should stay away from zoom lenses, especially long zoom lenses. Zoom lenses change their focal length by shifting optical elements within the lens barrel. That shifting requires the displacement of air which causes air to be sucked in and vented out during normal operation. That results in dust being drawn into the lens and being ejected out, sometimes out the back of the lens and into the camera body. You are probably just as likely to get dust on the mirror or sensor using a superzoom lens as you might be by occasionally swapping lenses. And you seem willing accept lower image quality while swapping one cause of dust in the camera body for another. We understand that; we're just not certain you do.
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#39 |
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also oil spots can happen from the lub from the shutter. That is more annoying to clean then dust. On pns this shutter lubs builds up and became sensor crud. Which signal the end of the life cycle of the camera.
With a lens system camera, you clean and avoid discarding the camera like a pns.
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Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it. Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter. Last edited by shoturtle; Jan 11, 2012 at 9:00 PM. |
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#40 |
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Sony α dSLR-A580 Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 Sony DT 50mm f/1.8 SAM Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di USD XLD |
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