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Old Apr 3, 2007, 2:35 PM   #11
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The mushroom log second pic, was also shot raw, still have the neg for it

100mm from 100-200mm lens

F 10

shutter speed 400

iso 800

manual focus

brighness value 7.6

exposure comp 0

meter multi segment

saturation, sharpness normal

color mode natural
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Old Apr 3, 2007, 3:01 PM   #12
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This one i just flat out have no idea what to do with, i could boost the color just a tad, contrast too, crop a little, but do you think that this is about all that i could have gotten out of it using a 50 mm hand held, mayby i'm just too picky or something, i just can never find that pic that says wow you know.

Info on this one is;

bright sunny day

jpg, extra fine

50mm prime lens

aperture priority

F 4.5

1000 shutter speed

iso 200

brightness value 8.3

exp comp 0

metered multi seg

color mode natural +

contrast, saturation, sharpness normal
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Old Apr 3, 2007, 3:13 PM   #13
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This basically the same, info:

50 mm prime

aperture priority

F 13

shutter speed 30, hand held

iso 400

brightness value 5.4

exp comp 0

multi seg metered

but on these flowers i think i still had a darn polarizer on from taking some other shots, again things you think of after the fact, flowers untouched straight out of camera, except last one cropped.
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Old Apr 3, 2007, 3:14 PM   #14
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same pic just cropped, so what to do with them, i have no idea.
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Old Apr 3, 2007, 3:23 PM   #15
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Same here.
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Old Apr 3, 2007, 4:14 PM   #16
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joee wrote:
Quote:
I was shooting raw but with a 1 gig card it limits the amount of pics so i went back to jpg fine then save to tiff so i still have my negative to edit later, ...
There is nothing wrong with shooting in JPEG instead of RAW, though it does limit your options a bit. There is no reason to save to TIFF - you should save the image exactly as it comes from the camera with no changes whatsoever. The only thing you accomplish by saving them as TIFFs is to use up your hard drive space much faster.

joee wrote:
Quote:
... contrast, saturation, sharpness normal ...
That is the reason for the lack of "pop".
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Old Apr 3, 2007, 11:09 PM   #17
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If you're shooting jpeg now there are some settings you can make that will help.

Set Saturation +1, Sharpness +1, Color Mode Natural+

Give them a try, those changes might give you the little bit of pop you want right out of the camera.
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Old Apr 7, 2007, 3:43 PM   #18
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Thanks for the advice, i think what i'll do is leave the camera settings as is & just use an editor to bump up the contrast & unsharp mask, but still don't know just what to with these pics, how much to crop, or they even worth messing with and such, you think i should move them over to critiques & just see what happens.
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Old Apr 8, 2007, 1:19 AM   #19
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I agree with your keeping the contrast and sharpening down and counting on post processing to get the extra punch. I always shoot with minimum contrast and sharpening to get the most dynamic range and to avoid enhancing sharpening artifacts in post processing. Since the images are going to come out pretty flat anyway I shoot with the saturation lowered as well, but I don't think it makes a big difference.

I have a Photoshop action I bulk run to give them a little punch, but I keep the originals as well for any advanced post processing I want to do.

If you don't have an image editor I would recommend going to Ebay and getting Paint Shop Pro X or XI. You can pick up the CD-only version of X for under $20 and XI for under $30. They are both legal and can be registered with Corel. The reason I recommend them is that they are the cheapest thing you can get that lets you make an action – PSP calls them scripts. Once you get an action to tweak up your images you can bulk run it and store the tweaked images in a sub-folder with the originals untouched.

I usually use Photoshop but was curious what PSP X would do to your cat. I'm usually disdainful of anything automatic but the PSP photo fix did an interesting job. I tweaked it a little, but it is basically the PSP "One Step Photo Fix". Edit: That doesn't mean PSP doesn't have all theadvanced tools - it does.




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Old Apr 8, 2007, 8:45 AM   #20
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In my experience, it is best to shoot RAW, slightly underexposed. Color space Adobe 1998, saturation -1, contrast +1, and then in photoshop you can open the raw and generally after color correction and white balance the picture pops out very nicely.
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