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Old Aug 31, 2007, 8:52 AM   #11
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Since you had some questions on using the meter, if shooting manual, some of your assumptions are correct. The meter will show you if your settings for aperture and shutter speed are going to result in a brighter exposure (meter is pointing to right of center), or a darker exposure (meter is pointing left of center), compared to the way the camera metered the scene.

In non-manual modes, you can use Exposure Compensation to accomplish the same thing (expose brighter or darker than the camera's metering thinks is needed).

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Old Aug 31, 2007, 8:55 AM   #12
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btw, on pics # 5, do u think theres something wrong with the wb? it looks like theres a color overcast like yellow or green. or myabe its under expose.
It may be a little warm. But, I personally prefer slightly warmer colors. You also had your settings for saturation bumped up, and it is just a tad undereposed. Overall, I think it was the best photo of the series.

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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:13 AM   #13
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JimC wrote:
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Personally, I think you're probably making it harder than it needs to be. ...
I really agree with you on that point.

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... My suggestion for those types of outdoor shots would be to use either Matrix or Center Weighted except for special circumstances where you need to meter on an exact spot. Then, use your camera's histogram as a guide to how your settings are working. Your Sony will even show you blinking highlights and shadows for overexposed and underexposed areas, and you can adjust from there, depending on what you want properly exposed in the image (and you may not be able to get everything properly exposed because of dynamic range limitations). ...
I'd like to emphasize that part of Jim's comments. It lets you see what is going on in the scene in the lighting that you are shooting. No need to extrapolate from a grey card reading and adjust for backlighting, ...

Also using the histogram and the flashing over/under indicators is quicker than using a grey card.

If you really want to pursue using a grey card for exposure, I'd suggest using the palm of your hand instead - simply because you always have it with you. You do have to open up about one stop from what a grey card would indicate: figuring exactly what suits you is part of the same experimenting you would have to do with a grey card.
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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:21 AM   #14
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JimC wrote:
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btw, on pics # 5, do u think theres something wrong with the wb? it looks like theres a color overcast like yellow or green. or myabe its under expose.
It may be a little warm. But, I personally prefer slightly warmer colors. You also had your settings for saturation bumped up, and it is just a tad undereposed. Overall, I think it was the best photo of the series.
thanks a lot!

yes i bump up the saturation setting to +2 on vivid and landscape mode. just to boost the colors. do u think its not a good idea?

one more thing, y is it that with the same setting, tha auto mode is more brighter than the manual mode? this is of course with the same subject and lighting. and amera on a tripod.

i find setting exposure a bit frustrating coz this is the most important part u want to get right. well, i wont get the skill overnight or in a few days. i think ineed to be patient, experiment and practice to get some experience.
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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:33 AM   #15
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ugly_giddy wrote:
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one more thing, y is it that with the same setting, tha auto mode is more brighter than the manual mode? this is of course with the same subject and lighting. and amera on a tripod.
Then, something is likely different about the settings. ;-)

If your manual exposure settings for aperture, iso speed, shutter speed are identical to what you get using Auto Exposure, then the image should be exposed the same way, unless you have other parameters changed that impact it (and things like your White Balance settings will also affect it, as will your focus point).

Your camera should be metering the scene the same way, using the same metering mode (and make sure it's not changing between modes), regardless if you're shooting in manual or auto modes. So, if the needle is centered in the meter both ways (or at least set to the same place in the meter), the exposure should be the same for the same metering mode (matrix, centered weighted or spot).

Chances are, you were using a different metering mode.


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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:37 AM   #16
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BillDrew wrote:
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I'd like to emphasize that part of Jim's comments. It lets you see what is going on in the scene in the lighting that you are shooting. No need to extrapolate from a grey card reading and adjust for backlighting, ...

Also using the histogram and the flashing over/under indicators is quicker than using a grey card.

If you really want to pursue using a grey card for exposure, I'd suggest using the palm of your hand instead - simply because you always have it with you. You do have to open up about one stop from what a grey card would indicate: figuring exactly what suits you is part of the same experimenting you would have to do with a grey card.
hi!

thanks for the help. im actually considering not to use the grey card again on a days out since it was a slow process using it. i learnt from it the hard way.

btw, in using the histogram, do u just recompose ur shot to get rid of the flashing indicators? for example, u want to shot a subject @ f8 @ 35mm and then u get 1/60, iso 100 and then u get the flasing indicators on ur cam histogram after the shot. so do i need to change aper and shut, take the shot until i get less or no flashing indicator on the histogram?
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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:41 AM   #17
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Use exposure compensation.

Use a -EV setting if the areas you care most about are overexposed (move the pointer to the left of center). That gives you a darker exposure than the camera's metering thinks is needed. The camera will use a faster shutter speed and/or smaller aperture (higher f/stop number) than it would have used to give you a darker exposure.

Use a +EV setting if the areas you are most about are underexposed (move the pointer to the right of center). That gives you a brighter exposure than the camera's metering thinks is needed. The camera will use a slower shutter speed and/or wider aperture (lower f/stop number) than it would have used to give you a brighter exposure.

If shooting with manual exposure, your settings are what impact how bright or dark the image is exposed. So, use the meter as a guide (the pointer in the meter will tell you if your settings will result in a brighter or darker image compared to the way the camera is metering the scene).


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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:42 AM   #18
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JimC wrote:
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ugly_giddy wrote:
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one more thing, y is it that with the same setting, tha auto mode is more brighter than the manual mode? this is of course with the same subject and lighting. and amera on a tripod.
Then, something is likely different about the settings. ;-)

If your manual exposure settings for aperture, iso speed, shutter speed are identical to what you get using Auto Exposure, then the image should be exposed the same way, unless you have other parameters changed that impact it (and things like your White Balance settings will also affect it, as will your focus point).

Your camera should be metering the scene the same way, using the same metering mode (and make sure it's not changing between modes), regardless if you're shooting in manual or auto modes. So, if the needle is centered in the meter both ways (or at least set to the same place in the meter), the exposure should be the same for the same metering mode (matrix, centered weighted or spot).

Chances are, you were using a different metering mode.

uve got a big point there. as far as i can remember, i put everything on thesame setting including metering, wb etc. this is what i did when i got my camera. i was trying to find out whats what. thats why after that, i always put +1 everytime i use manual mode.

ill try it again and see whether i get the same result as the last one.

thanks again!
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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:47 AM   #19
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If you put the pointer on +1 (although each small line on it is probably 1/3 stop versus a full stop), you're telling the camera to expose a full stop brighter than it would have normally exposed the scene, based on your metering mode (and what you metered on).

Check your camera to make sure. But, chances are, Green Auto sets *everything* to defaults. If you want to use Auto and still control most parameters, use the P (Programmed Auto) mode instead.

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Old Aug 31, 2007, 9:56 AM   #20
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This may help you understand what the camera is doing better:

http://www.photonhead.com/exposure/simcam.php

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