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Old Mar 3, 2006, 8:44 PM   #11
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You may want to consider shooting at a slightly smaller aperture. The 50mm f/1.7 sharpens up a bit if you stop down to f/2.2 or so with it compared to wide open, and it helps your depth of field some, too (stop down a tad more if you can for even better DOF).

You'll have a very shallow depth of field shooting at wide open apertures with a bright lens like this. So, if you can stop it down a tad, and still get fast enough shutter speeds, that would probably help keep more of your subjects in focus (making sure you focus on a subject, not the background).

You may also find Continuous AF a better choice for sports.


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Old Mar 3, 2006, 8:51 PM   #12
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Thanks everybody. It's time to go to the game now. I'll post results.

Mike.
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Old Mar 3, 2006, 10:57 PM   #13
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OK; Just got back from game took 66 photo's and I'm not really happy with any of them.

I understand that shooting under moving objects under vapor lighting is not easy but I'm really having a hard time getting a quality shot thats in focus. I've seen so many shots similar to the circumstances that I was shooting in and thier pictures look perfectly in focus.

As suggested I did set to continuous advance and didstop down, but one thing I didn't like is that when shooting in A setting when you stop down your shutter speed slows down and blurs your photo.

It also seems the auto focus does alot of searching and when you following a moving target you've got to shoot when it's time or you miss the shot.

Here's what I ended up with.

photo 1 shot with a 50mm f/1.7

1/160

f/2.8

Av setting

multi segment metering mode

WB fluorescent

ISO 1600
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Old Mar 3, 2006, 11:02 PM   #14
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Same shot with PS auto focus. Looks better
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Old Mar 3, 2006, 11:22 PM   #15
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Finally; lens 50mm f/1.7

1/160

f/2.5

A mode

WB fluorescent

ISO 1600

Im sure a flash would have been a big help here. Under these lighting conditions what settings would you have used?

How do you getthe crisp in focus photo?

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Old Mar 4, 2006, 1:10 AM   #16
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Again, it is hard to see in this small of a picture. I'd like to look at the original size. It does not look that out of focus to me. Have you set the camera to sharpening? Also 1/160 second could be a little long for an action shot, so contrary to the advise above you might want to set the lens to its full 1.7 aperture. I would avoid ISO 3200, but from I hear it is still usable. For these kind of shots, I'd recommend at least a 1/250 shutter speed. Also did younotice how the tracking focus would constantly follow the moving subject and adjust focus? If not, it might not have been engaged properly. Try Sports mode because it automatically sets the continuous tracking AF and the fastest possible shutter speed.

A powerful flashwith High Speed synch such as the Minolta 5600HS or Sigma EF-500 Super sure would have made all the difference in the world. Get one.

This is of great interest to me since one of the reasons I got the KM5D is because of the limitations with indoor sports I found in my Panasonic FZ30. My son is also a basketball player and I want to take some good shots. I also got the same 50mm 1.7 lens. I will try to take some shots this weekend and see how I do at it.
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Old Mar 4, 2006, 4:45 AM   #17
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Yes, shutter speeds were too slow.

I should have been more specific, even though I said this:

Quote:
You'll have a very shallow depth of field shooting at wide open apertures with a bright lens like this. So, if you can stop it down a tad, and still get fast enough shutter speeds, that would probably help keep more of your subjects in focus (making sure you focus on a subject, not the background).
The "and still get fast enough shutter speeds" is important for sports. ;-)

Since you were getting shutter speeds from 1/640 to 1/1000 second at f/1.7 and ISO 1600 in your first set, I suggested trying f/2.2 (which is slightly less than 1 stop down). So, call it one stop for shutter speed estimates. By a bit more, I meant perhaps f/2.4 *if* shutter speeds were fast enough (since you were getting 1/1000 second in some images before at f/1.7).

f/2.2 should have kept you above 1/320 second (or faster) in the light you had 1/640 in, with faster shutter speeds (above 1/500 second) in the same light you were getting 1/1000 second in your first set at f/1.7.

It's generally a good idea to keep shutter speeds up to around 1/320 second to increase your number of keepers from what most Indoor Sports Shooters will tell you. When shooting in Av Mode, watch the shutter speed in the viewfinder. If it gets much lower, open up the aperture more. ;-)

I rarely shoot wide open with any lens. If you go 1/2 to 1 stop down when shutter speeds permit, you'll get sharper photos. The 50mm f/1.7 works well at f/2.2. I haven't checked the Maxxum 5D yet. But, I've got an old Maxxum 7000 that automatically goes to f/2.2 with it if you shoot in auto modes in low light without a flash, probably because the algoirthms know this lens is sharper there.

As an alternative, shoot shutter priority at around 1/320 second to 1/500 second and let the camera pick the appropriate aperture. But, if lighting is not exactly the same, you can run out of aperture (it only opens up so much, so you need to keep an eye on the viewfinder to see if it blinks when it does so you don't underexpose).

Was this a different gym? Judging from your shutter speeds, after adjusting for aperture differences, light appears lower than in your first set.

You have to adjust for the lighting you're shooting in, too. Make sure to keep an eye on shutter speeds. You may need to use larger apertures in one gym versus another.


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Old Mar 4, 2006, 5:07 AM   #18
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P.S.

WB also looks off in your second set (my assumption is that it was a different gym). I'd try custom white balance in that lighting.

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Old Mar 4, 2006, 5:13 AM   #19
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rduve wrote:
Quote:
Also 1/160 second could be a little long for an action shot, so contrary to the advise above you might want to set the lens to its full 1.7 aperture. I would avoid ISO 3200, but from I hear it is still usable. For these kind of shots, I'd recommend at least a 1/250 shutter speed.
1/320 or faster is a good to aim for.

But, in different lighting, he may need to open up the aperture more.

Or, as an alternative, use shutter priority and let the camera pick the appropriate aperture (in that case, you'd need to make sure you don't "run out' of aperture and get underexposed images if you don't want higher noise when you try to brighten them up later). One of our forum members shoots basketball often with a Canon, and sometimes suggests using 1/250 to 1/320 second with shutter priority at ISO 3200. But, in the lighting his first set was shot in, going to that extreme (ISO 3200) would not be necessary.
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Old Mar 4, 2006, 5:17 PM   #20
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Thanks Jim.

Your help is very much appreciated. That was the same gym that I took practice shots in earlier that day. The reason it seems a little darker in the second set of pictures is that during the earlier test shotsdaylight was shining through a big window atthe top of the wall.

I did switch to the shutter priority briefly and you were correct the shots were very under exposed. Sorry I can't give you the exif on those shots I've deleted them from my CF and I'm using photoshop 2 that doesn't have that information.

The WB was tricky because the lights in the gym are not all the same. Some produce more of a green light and some orange. You can clearly see it in the last shot. I don't know if that would make it harder for the WB or not. Also, I think anything slower than 1/500 is not going to be fast enough for these conditions.

rduve; Also thanks for your help.
I hope you have better luck than I'm having when you shoot your sons game. I did not have the cameras sharping adjusted, good suggestion. I will try the sports mode next time I don't think that it can do any worse. Played around with the sports mode and the 50mm lens this morning at a skateboard park and was happy with the results.

A flash is the way to go but I just don't want to distract the kids during thier game.

He has another game today so I'll give it another try. Probably try sports mode first and floursent WB then experiment from there.
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