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Old Jun 7, 2006, 8:24 AM   #11
NHL
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I have never shoot @ ISO 800 - let alone 3200! :G

-> What is more desirable IMO is actually being able to adjust the ISO in 1/3 steps instead like on the newer Canon
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Old Jun 7, 2006, 8:37 AM   #12
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I'd like the ability to adjust ISO speed in 1/3 stop increments, as long as it went to ISO 3200.

I do that from time to time by deliberately underexposing (usually deliberately underexposing ISO 3200). :-)

It's really not that bad at smaller viewing sizes, and it beats motion blur.

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Old Jun 7, 2006, 9:39 AM   #13
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I truly agree with JimC on this one! I have a nikon D50 and i ALWAYS end up in situations where iso3200 WOULD HAVE BEEN a gods gift! Iso 1600 in dimly lit places is just not enough imo. Of course you can buy faster lenses, but...... where´s the money going to come from?

If i could rebuy i would go KM D5 or Wait for the pentax K100D which also has AS and iso3200...

Sony sony sony, why did you give up on iso3200?
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Old Jun 7, 2006, 9:52 AM   #14
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monx wrote:
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Of course you can buy faster lenses, but...... where´s the money going to come from?
Only to a point. The light is so low in a one of the restaurants around here with liive music, I shoot at f/2 and ISO 3200, and still need to underexpose to get shutter speeds up to around 1/8 to 1/10 second. If I was limited to ISO 1600, there is no way I'd get any shots at all (it's hard enough getting any without too much motion blur at ISO 3200).

The new Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is now on my radar. But, even that's not bright enough to stop all the motion blur (and you'd have a shallower DOF shooting at f/1.4, too).

I had "good" light trying to take some snapshots of a band playing at a local restaurant over the weekend (Saturday night).

By underexposing a bit, I was able to get my shutter speeds up to fast 1/20 second shooting wide open with a 100mm f/2 at ISO 3200. ;-)


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Old Jun 7, 2006, 12:08 PM   #15
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An example from Saturday Night. Shot manual exposure wide open at f/2 with a Minolta 100mm f/2 at 1/20 second, ISO 3200, hand held of course. This is great light. ;-)

Straight from the camera jpeg with no processing of any kind except for rotation and downsizing using the Lanczos algorithm in Irfanview, saving at 85% JPEG Quality for web viewing. EXIF in Image.

Cameras settings for sharpness, saturation at normal. Camera setting for contrast was dialed back -1.

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Old Jun 7, 2006, 12:34 PM   #16
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One more from Saturday Night. Hand Held using ISO 3200, Manual Exposure, 1/20 second, wide open at f/2 using a Minolta 100mm f/2.

Straight from the camera jpeg with no processing of any kind except for rotation and downsizing using the Lanczos algorithm in Irfanview, saving at 85% JPEG Quality for web viewing. EXIF in Image.

Cameras settings for sharpness, saturation atnormal. Camera setting for contrast was dialed back -1.
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Old Jun 8, 2006, 1:54 PM   #17
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Do you see any dead pixels in any of these shots
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Old Jun 8, 2006, 2:00 PM   #18
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Dead or Hot?

Dead is when a pixel is not responding to light at all (always dark). Hot is when it's brighter than it should be. If a pixel is hot, regardless of exposure, it's considered to be "stuck" (always bright).

Upon close examination at 100% size, I do find one hot pixel in the first image. I don't see it in the second image (probably because it's location is in an area that's better illuminated in the second image).

So, it's only a borderline pixel at ISO 3200 in some conditions, versus one that's staying bright.

That's not uncommon (hot pixels at higher ISO speeds and/or longer exposure times).

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Old Jun 8, 2006, 2:30 PM   #19
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P.S.

I saw your comments on 3 hot pixels at all ISO speeds in another thread.

See if the camera will remap them for you.

To force the monthly remap, set your camera's date and time up to the last few minutes of the last day in the month.

Turn it off, and wait until enough time has passed for the internal clock to change months. Turn the camera back on, wait a few minutes to make sure it's performed a remap, then take some photos and make sure the bad pixels are gone. Then, reset your date and time so it's correct.


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Old Jun 8, 2006, 2:34 PM   #20
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I followed your instructions (from the earlier thread) and it took care of some hot pixels (there were about 5 initially, only visible at 800 ISO or up). But the ones I have right now don't go away even after the remap (always bright at speeds slower than 1/8 and 400 ISO and up). This is my first DSLR ever so I wasn't prepared for something like this, but I am now realizing that this is a common issue. Are CMOS sensors less prone than CCDs?
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