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Old Jun 7, 2006, 3:42 PM   #1
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:?I just got a Minolta 7D, and for some reason I have to give a +1 adjustment to get a good exposed picture.

Is this endemic with the 7d or do I need to adjust it to get more accurate and reliable readings.

Other than this problem, I love the way this camera works.

Thank you for your help..

Sergio
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Old Jun 8, 2006, 4:10 AM   #2
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The 7D acts just like your shooting slide film. It does tend to underexpose about half to one stop. It does this to protect the highlights. If you will process your RAW images and add exposure you end up with a little better photo than with a JPEG. If your looking for images right out of the camera without any processing just add exposure like you are doing. Just be careful because you can easily blow out your highlights. I use the RAW & JPEG setting and use the jpeg just to look at the photo and do the final processing with the RAW file in Adobe PhotoShop CS2. PhotoShop is the only one I have learned how to use but I know many others are on the market and some are even free.

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Old Jun 8, 2006, 3:41 PM   #3
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I have a related question. I use a sekonic L-358 and after setting my ISO and aperture correct, I got a reading for my shutter speed (ambient light). But for some reason, the image doesn't look right. I will attach a sample when I get to crop it to the correct size, it was a white marble statue in brooklyn museum lit by tungsten lamps. I had also set the color temperature to tungsten. However, the image came out really not the way I saw it with my eyes (too much white). Is this a tonality issue? I had to underexpose one or two stops to improve the overall quality.

Also, if we overexpose the flash (using the top left knob) by one stop, does the camera flash with greater power or simply the shutter speed/aperture are adjusted for exposure?
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Old Jun 8, 2006, 4:21 PM   #4
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Lighting temperature can vary greatly within the same type of lighting.

Try using the Custom White Balance feature.

A photographic gray card is the best thing to use for setting it. But, anything white can work in a pinch (for example, a few white coffee filters stacked together).

A "trick" for helping to set it with fewer errors (it can be a bit "finnicky") is switching to Manual Focus and making sure your White Balance target is out of focus when you set it. Make sure metering is on spot, and you have the target in the same lighting you're shooting in.


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Old Jun 8, 2006, 4:24 PM   #5
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As for the flash, it probably depends on camera settings (one of the menu choices will allow exposure compensation to change both flash and ambient). If it's changing both, then it probably varies aperture or shutter speed, too. You'd have to test it. But, if memory serves, the camera is probably using a fixed shutter speed in most low light conditions with flash. It probably depends on the mode you're in, too.


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Old Jun 8, 2006, 6:05 PM   #6
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Thank you AJ, your response is very helpful. You are correct about PS CS2, the shadow/highlight feature is an excellent tool to fix this type of problem without affecting the image quality.

Cheers....

Sergio
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Old Jun 8, 2006, 7:41 PM   #7
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Why is it that the 7Ds jpeg have darker skin tones than in RAW even if I set Digital Efx to 0 ( contrast saturation etc). overexposing it to +1/2 stop doesnt help.
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Old Jun 8, 2006, 7:46 PM   #8
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royco wrote:
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Why is it that the 7Ds jpeg have darker skin tones than in RAW even if I set Digital Efx to 0 ( contrast saturation etc). overexposing it to +1/2 stop doesnt help.
The KM DSLR models use a relatively contrasty tone curve by default, which does tend to compress the shadow areas more.

As for raw, each converter will have different characterstics, depending on how they process the data from the sensor.

I tend to run the same images through more than one converter, before deciding on the one that works best for the images taken in the same conditions (least amount of tweaking needed).

I've never tried KM's converter (I didn't even bother to install the software that came with my camera). But, I use various other raw converters from time to time (for example: Adobe Camera Raw, dcraw.c, raw shooter essentials, bibble).


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Old Jun 9, 2006, 10:28 PM   #9
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Thanks for your tip Jim, Very helpful as always. Set the contrast to -1 Saturation and sharpness to + 1 and skin tones are perfect. Altho during night shots with flash I find the saturation at 0 to be just about right.

Royco
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Old Jun 10, 2006, 3:32 AM   #10
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Are any or all of the above statements also true for the KM5D or does it process the images any differently?

Rainer

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