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Old Jul 8, 2006, 1:57 AM   #11
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Vivitar Series 1 70-210 2.8-4 @ 210mm f6.3.

It tends to overexpose and blow highlights. Each of the other lenses were very similar in results, even when cropped.

Rainer

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Old Jul 8, 2006, 3:56 AM   #12
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Here are a couple of more examples which demonstrate my point better. This one was shot with the Vivitar 70-210 2.8-4
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Old Jul 8, 2006, 3:58 AM   #13
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...and then I switched it out for the Tamron 28-300 XR 3.5-6.3. See how it has more contrast, saturation and more accurate exposure? The Vivitar just seems too bright and sort of yellowish. Do you see what I mean? I never knew that the lens can affect the metering, but it sure does with this lens.

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Old Jul 8, 2006, 12:13 PM   #14
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As far as contrast and accurate color rendition I agree, the Tamron is a very good lens. I've not taken the time to do sharpness tests vs the 70-210 Minlota lenses but it does produce pleasing results. My reasoning for suggesting other lenses is due to his specific criteria- his dad's hands shake and he's using the camera indoors. He may need all the ambient light he can get to acheive shutter speeds that produce acceptable shots, so I'd say go with a brighter lens. The shots Rduve produced from the vivitar are a bit warm, but that may be preferable to blurry. I guess if he can get good results from the kit lens at 70mm, he can use a lens that's a bit more dim.

It does seem that the Tamrons' coatings are superior to the Vivitar, but then I would expect that.
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Old Jul 8, 2006, 12:33 PM   #15
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Thanks rduve and Mercury!

rduve: Any time frame on when you might test the vivitar indoors at the sporting event? Here in the South we see that yellow cast (in reality) in the summer before some rains....or at least that's what it reminded me of.

The Tamron sounds perfect, but not for indoors....but man so tempting. Would be comparable to my kit lens. Afraid the f2.8 Sigma or Minolta per Mercury are going to be too pricey.

Still looking at offers on lens mentioned in this thread. As to indoor use for flash, what does he need? I see that some KM model (5600?) is out of stock.

Although B&H is not accepting orders until late tonight found 2, 2 lens kits of interest:

($169 after rebate) Tamron 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 and 55-200mm f/4-5.6 Di-II LD Two Lens Kit for Minolta Digital SLR Cameras

($199) Tamron 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 and 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 LD Two Lens Kit for Minolta Maxxum
Not sure the extra $20-50 work it since the kit is coming with the 18-70.
Thanks,
M
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Old Jul 8, 2006, 2:07 PM   #16
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rduve wrote:
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I will test the Vivitar 70-210 2.8-4 at an indoors sports even for which it should be ideal and report back once I have had a chance to do so.
Yes, please do that. You can find these lenses at very inexpensive prices.

A modern camera meters with the aperture wide open, then stops it down when you take the shot. So, it's not unusual to see some lenses that are brighter or darker than they should be at a given aperture setting.

Your shots so far make the Vivitar seem like a more appealing lens for low light use, since it seems to be exposing brighter (implying that's it's brighter than it should be at a given aperture setting). That's a good thing from my perspective, and you could get around any overexposure issues with use of Exposure Compensation (while getting faster shutter speeds for the same image brightness). lol

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Old Jul 8, 2006, 2:33 PM   #17
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Let me try it this weekend. Will take my son to the indoor basketball court to throw some hoops. PS: thanks for the explanation on how some lenses could be brighter or darker, Jim. That makes sense now. And yes, that actually makes the Vivitar even more appealing for things like indoor sports.

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Old Jul 8, 2006, 2:54 PM   #18
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melt1109 wrote:
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($199) Tamron 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 and 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 LD Two Lens Kit for Minolta Maxxum
Thanks,
M
Cameta Camera has the same set for $159 or so. I had those lenses, and sold them when I got the 28-300. IMO,they are not worth the price. The 28-300 for $145 is a much better lens, and you have the kit les for the wide end.
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Old Jul 8, 2006, 4:13 PM   #19
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I agree with Cope, you're not gaining any aperture by buying that kit from buying the 28-300- you're just taking the smallest aperture at 100mm shorter focal length. (f 5.6 is also the 28-300's maximum aperture value at 200mm so I'd see no reason to spend more $ on less zoom and poorer optics.)

I have the 70-210 f 3.5-4.5, which is a bit brighter yet not as bright as the Vivitar Series 1 f 2.8-4. If you order that lens, be very careful that you don't order the manual focus MD lens by mistake, Cameta is selling both and the auction pages are easy to mistake.

Nobody has mentioned the 70-210 f4 lens, it's a great lens and sells for around $200. (there is a crossed X model on Ebay right now with a buy it now price of $179.)
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Old Jul 8, 2006, 4:59 PM   #20
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rduve wrote:
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Let me try it this weekend. Will take my son to the indoor basketball court to throw some hoops. PS: thanks for the explanation on how some lenses could be brighter or darker, Jim. That makes sense now. And yes, that actually makes the Vivitar even more appealing for things like indoor sports.
Not necessarily for indoor sports, since it's metering wide open anyway, unless it's also a bit brighter wide open (and that's likely where you'd be shooting at indoors). But, if it's brighter than it should be when you're stopped down a bit from wide open, that would have it's appeal in less than optimum lighting when you're not wide open with a lens.

To be frank, I like some of the shots from the Vivitar you've shown better.

The shot with the gas meters seem to be better exposed from the Vivitar to my eyes. The same Minolta shot looks underexposed.

Ditto for the shot I see of the home (where you mentioned some blown highlights from it). The Tamron shot looks underexposed compared to the Vivitar.

Yes, if you want to protect the highlights, you may need to lean towards a slight underexposed photo shooting jpeg. But, I can't see anything wrong with the way the Vivitar is handling it, and you could always use a -EV setting with Exposure Compensation if you wanted a darker exposure (and get faster shutter speeds, too). lol

The photo of the child looks a *tiny* bit washed out from the Vivitar. So, perhaps a bit of loss of contrast from flare combined with a tendency to expose a bit brighter was involved there versus the other photo. But, calling it loss of contrast is probably a "stretch". I think that most of the difference you're seeing is probably that the Vivitar tends to expose a little brighter.

Most of them don't look too bad for such an inexpensive lens.

How is sharpness shooting at wide open apertures?

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