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Old Jul 19, 2006, 9:04 PM   #11
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photography craft and technique+ quality of glass = crisp and sharp handheld shots.

unfortunately, I have neither :G.... I think most would say the first half of the equation can go a long ways... I tend to agree with them andwill invest more time than money in the above equation.

With your $800 budget, you could get a pretty sweet set up.... If you can score a 5D at a local Circuit City, it'd leave you about $350 for a lens... keep in mind that your 5D will come with a kit lens that's plenty wide, and more than adequate... The Sigma 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 DG APO gets pretty good reviews, and that can be had for well under your budget.....

The sweet $430 Circuit City deal is on open stock cameras... If that turns you off, see if a local Ritz Camera has'um in stock... They'll price match it with a fresh in the box specimen for you, provided a CC near by has them at that price.

You could alsojoin the club and find a really really cheap Minolta 75-300mmf/4.5-5.6lens at Circuit City for $40 (your lens needs to be silver in order to gain membership however) :?

~Aloha~
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Old Jul 20, 2006, 4:56 AM   #12
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I would guess it would depend a lot on which 300mm lens you used.

The older Minolta "big beercan" 75-300mm 4.5-5.6 (the one with the focus limiter switch) is big, long, and heavy. I haven't tried using it handheld at full extension yet -- I've always used a tripod, and it's taken a couple of extra turns on the adjustment know on the ballhead to get the camera/lens combo from being front-heavy enough to drag the camera angle down. I may try handholding it as an experiment, but I'd be very surprised if any shots came out O.K.

The current (inexpensive) KM 75-300 and Tamron 28-300 seem much shorter and lighter, so they might be better bets for handholding.


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Old Jul 20, 2006, 5:00 AM   #13
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KM's claim was that their AS system would give you two additional stops over non-stabilized cameras. By that standard, with a 300mm lens, the slowest you could hand-hold would be 1/75th second.

Personally, I'd rely more on the "shakieness scale" in the viewfinder.


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Old Jul 20, 2006, 12:37 PM   #14
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My shot above is at 1/125 or 1/160.....
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Old Jul 20, 2006, 3:38 PM   #15
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RacingManiac wrote:
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My shot above is at 1/125 or 1/160.....
Exif says 160th. Nice shot by the way.
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Old Jul 20, 2006, 4:14 PM   #16
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antishake will give you an edge, BUT, it is virtually useless if the subject is moving across the field or if you are panning (i believe some nikon and/or canon lenses may be exceptions)

it may/will compensate for small/steady/rythmic tremors but may also amplify some types of 'the shakes'

three deep breaths, exhale completely, 'snap' just after your third heart-beat !

LIKE A ROCK
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Old Jul 20, 2006, 4:38 PM   #17
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yeah you can easily shoot at 300mm with the 5d, i used to shoot sports and on really cloudy days with only 1/200 i could still get good shots.

however you may consider looking into the FZ50 if you already have a FZ3.... 10mp i think and the same zoom range.
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Old Jul 21, 2006, 5:26 PM   #18
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In an attempt to get a better answer, I tried some handheld shots using the "big beercan" at its 300mm full extension. Recall that, according to conventional wisdom, you can only handhold this at 1/300th of a second or higher.

Here's a full-frame image of my target:


And here are crops of the center of the image:

[img]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JAMESD%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/img]
1/320 (the closest to 1/300 I could get)


1/160


1/80

Judging from this, anti-shake gives you one additional stop with this lens at full extension, but no more.

Keep in mind, though, that the "big beercan" is an older lens that's "built like a tank," and is about the same size and weight as one, too. :-) I wouldn't be surprised if you could get two stops with a more modern, small, lighter lens like the Tamron 28-300.




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Old Jul 21, 2006, 6:52 PM   #19
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nice! this is an interesting experiment i'd like to try out with my 75-300. thanks for posting this, RavenFalls.

~aloha~
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Old Jul 24, 2006, 1:17 PM   #20
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bernabeu wrote:
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antishake will give you an edge, BUT, it is virtually useless if the subject is moving across the field or if you are panning (i believe some nikon and/or canon lenses may be exceptions)

I don't think thats completely true....I did notice a difference with and without AS one time when my AS was left off from previous day of portrait shooting. I was surprise at the amount of bad shots of the carI got until I noticed it was off.
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