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Old Aug 9, 2004, 2:57 PM   #11
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Jim C,



Thanks for the excellent reply. I think you hit the nail on the head with regard to low light not being the same a totally dark.

I don't have the camera in front of me as I type this, but on the W1 if I use the P mode and set the ISO to 200 or 400, and use the flash, I recall that the camera may still use the default shutter speed. Is that correct?

As previously suggested in this post, it appears that one must use the manual mode to get faster shutter speed when using the flash?
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Old Aug 9, 2004, 3:18 PM   #12
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jscamera wrote:
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I don't have the camera in front of me as I type this, but on the W1 if I use the P mode and set the ISO to 200 or 400, and use the flash, I recall that the camera may still use the default shutter speed. Is that correct?

As previously suggested in this post, it appears that one must use the manual mode to get faster shutter speed when using the flash?
I do not have a Sony DSC-W1 so I cannot answer your questions on it's behavior. I only responded to the post since this a typical problem you see with other camera models, too (trying to take photos outside of the flash range -- especially when using zoom).

You probably would not be happy with the noise levels at higher ISO speeds, even if you can get it to work (but I don't want to discourage you from trying it).

Your best bet with a smaller model like this, is to stay within the stated flash range indoors, using your feet as the zoom whenever possible by shooting at full wide angle.Or,buy a slave flash for it. It is my understanding that Sony makes one designedto work with the W1.


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Old Aug 11, 2004, 10:20 AM   #13
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At 200 ISO the W1 usually defaults 1/50 instead of 1/40 for flash. If that works for you, then you don't have to go to manual mode. I have been pleasantly surprised at how little noise there is at ISO 200 with this camera. Most of the time, I don't need to clean up the image at all. Default setting on Noiseware works quite nicely if you do. Noise is evident at 400, but usually cleans up...a little processed looking sometimes, but very usable.

Nice posts by Jim C. Helps us all understand a little better. Thanks!
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Old Aug 11, 2004, 10:24 AM   #14
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Thanks!
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Old Sep 23, 2004, 9:44 PM   #15
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Hi,



My previous posts spoke to shooting with flash at full zoom. I amhaving a similar issue shooting in fairly bright outdoor light at full zoom.

Assume I am outdoors in hazy sunlight, full zoom, auto mode.I often get a camera shake warning, and when I take the shot, I often do geta blurred picture.

Why didn't Sony design the auto mode such that when the camera is in full zoom, the ISO increases or thearpeture opens up more to allow the shutter speed to increase, thus avoiding the risk of blur. Has anyone else noticed this? How do other similar SLR's perform under comparable conditions?


I questionSony'sprogramming of the auto mode in this respect. And, why didn't Sony offer a sports or fast action mode on this camera?

Finally, a few ISO setting questions. In the auto shooting mode, will the camera use the full range of 100-400 ISO speed?

In the manual shooting mode, if I set the ISO to auto, what range of the 100-400 ISO speed will the camera use?


Thanks









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Old Sep 24, 2004, 12:34 AM   #16
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jscamera wrote:
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Assume I am outdoors in hazy sunlight, full zoom, auto mode.I often get a camera shake warning, and when I take the shot, I often do geta blurred picture.

Why didn't Sony design the auto mode such that when the camera is in full zoom, the ISO increases or thearpeture opens up more to allow the shutter speed to increase, thus avoiding the risk of blur.
If you check the EXIF on one of these photos, I think you'll find that the Aperture already is wide open in Auto Exposure Mode if you're getting a camera shake warning. Remember, the lens on the W1 is more than twice as bright at wide angle versus full zoom (largest availableaperture of f/2.8 at wide angle, dropping down tof/5.2 at full zoom).

If your Image Editor doesn't show you this information, download irfanview from http://www.irfanview.com (it's free). Make sure to download the free plugins, too.

You'll find thecamera settings for the image you open under "Image, Information, EXIF".

To determine the35mm equivalent focal length you were shooting at for your model, you'll need to multiply the actual focal length in the EXIF by 4.8 (it's actual focal length is 7.9-23.7mm, to give it a 35mm equivalent focal length of 38-114mm).

The rule of thumb is shutter speeds of 1/focal length or faster. So, the more zoom you use, the faster the shutter speeds will need to be to prevent motion blur (because even tiny movements of the camera are magnified greatly as more zoom is used).

So, if you are shooting at wide angle (equivalent to 38mm on your model), it's a good idea to have shutter speeds faster than1/38 second. Or, if shooting at full zoom (114mm equivalent on your model),it's a good ideato have shutter speeds faster than1/114 second to reduce blur from camera shake.

But, this is only a rule of thumb (some users can shoot at much slower shutter speeds than others).

Quote:
How do other similar SLR's perform under comparable conditions?
Well, it's not an SLR. It's a subcompact camera, with a small lens design that does have limitations. Even with an SLR, you'd need to make sure you had a lens that was adequate for the lighting conditons and camera settings you're using.

Quote:
I questionSony'sprogramming of the auto mode in this respect. And, why didn't Sony offer a sports or fast action mode on this camera?
I probably wouldn't change anything about the way it's working now, given it's sensor and lens limitations (unless I'm wrong about it selecting the largest aperture available in lower light conditions, and I doubt it). Virtually all cameras are going to open the aperture as wide as possible if the shutter speed is not 1/focal length or faster in Auto mode.

Quote:
In the auto shooting mode, will the camera use the full range of 100-400 ISO speed?
That's very unlikely. Noise levels would be too high.Chances are, it's not boosting it above around 160. Keep in mind that the camera has no idea how much shake you're actually going tohave at the moment you press the shutter button, or if you are using a tripod. Some people hold a camera much steadier than others (and learn to squeeze the shutter button smoothly to help reduce any blur at slower shutter speeds). Others routinely use a tripod for photos in less than optimum lighting.

I'd try practicing how you are holding the camera and squeezing the shutter button if you don't want to set ISO speeds higher.

This may even be your primary problem. Even with faster shutter speeds, you can still get some motion blur if you aren't careful about the way you operate the camera. The 1/focal length "rule of thumb" is just that -- a rule of thumb. Some users may need even faster shutter speeds to prevent blur; and others may be able to do fine at shutter speeds much slower.

Check out the EXIF for the photos that are good or bad -- looking at both the focal length, and the shutter speeds. Then, try working on how you hold and operate the camera and see if you notice improvement in the images. Think smoooooth when squeezing the shutter button.

It beats having more noise from higher ISO speeds if you can get lessblur by practicing technique.

Quote:
In the manual shooting mode, if I set the ISO to auto, what range of the 100-400 ISO speed will the camera use?
You'll have to try it and find out. Chances are, the ISO speed will work the same way it does using Auto Exposure, if you leave ISO set to Auto in Manual Exposure Mode.
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Old Sep 24, 2004, 9:12 AM   #17
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Jim C

Thanks so much for the excellent post!
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