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Old Nov 29, 2004, 8:13 PM   #1
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OK, I am far from an expert, and am really enjoying my new W1. It takes great still shots. However, I'm finding that in a shot with any movement whatsover, even one that my old flim camera with 200 speed film would take without blur, the Sony W1 blurs the image. Is there a way to correct this on any of the manual settings?



Thanks,

John
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 9:39 PM   #2
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You usually have two choices to stop action. Fast shutter speed or flash.

I don't think the W1 has aperture or shutter priority modes so it is difficult to force the shutter to a motion-stopping speed. So that is out as you know.

If it had a hotshoe or a PC connection I would suggest an external flash to use the stopping power of the flash to freeze action but the W1 only has its built-in flash.

I know Sony makes a slave flash for its smaller cameras (the P series) which might work with the W1.

If that fails, I remember way back in the late 1990's setting up a Wein Peanut slave trigger to fire a Vivitar 283 from my old Mavica FD-91 which also had no provision for a flash. It worked quite well if I recall.


http://www.mav-magazine.com/Oct1998/flash/flash.htm
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Old Nov 30, 2004, 12:14 AM   #3
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john6757 wrote:
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Is there a way to correct this on any of the manual settings?
yes use the Manual mode and set the shutter speed to whatever you want.
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Old Nov 30, 2004, 11:55 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll have to dig out the old user's manual. It was pretty complicated when I first looked at it though.
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Old Nov 30, 2004, 12:08 PM   #5
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Well, keep in mind that if you are not using a flash, there are only 3 things impacting the shutter speeds you can achieve for proper exposure.

ISO Speed, Aperture and Lighting Levels.

In low light (and what's bright to the human eye is not bright to a camera's lens), the camera's autoexposure algorithmsare going to be selecting the largest available aperture anyway (with the DSC-W1, that's f/2.8 at wide angle, stopping down to f/5.2 at full zoom).

So, if you're not using a flash, and have no control over the lighting, there are only a couple of things you can do to get faster shutter speeds in lower light (unless you want underexposed images).

1. Increase ISO speed (which will increase noise).

2. Don't use as much zoom (because more than twice as much light reaches the sensor through the lens at it's wide angle setting, versus full zoom).

See this thread for a discussion on factors impacting low light performance:

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...amp;forum_id=2


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Old Nov 30, 2004, 1:31 PM   #6
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Well, for one after moving from Sony dsc-v1 to dsc-w1 I noticed differences in the way the camera handles. Try properly locking the focus first by half pressing the shutter and waiting for lock, then firing the shot.

This certainly has caused me some blurry & missed shots cuz W 1 fires immediately after you press the shutter - not necessarely waiting for focus to lock properly.

Just my 2C,

Juha
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Old Nov 30, 2004, 1:36 PM   #7
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yes but what happens if it is day , with the sun shining ( so plenty of light ) , when u shoot somehting that is moving and the camera has no manual controls for shutter speed? you will have allways blur? ( well lets say that u dont want to use ISO more than 50 or 100 ) . The camera does not understand that you want to freeze the object,so what should he do ?
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Old Nov 30, 2004, 1:49 PM   #8
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george_ wrote:
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yes but what happens if it is day , with the sun shining ( so plenty of light ) , when u shoot somehting that is moving and the camera has no manual controls for shutter speed? you will have allways blur? ( well lets say that u dont want to use ISO more than 50 or 100 ) . The camera does not understand that you want to freeze the object,so what should he do ?
If the sun is shining with plenty of light, then shutter speeds will be relatively fast anyway.

But, if you do have a situation with so much light thatthe camera is selecting the smaller versus larger aperture (and the W1 only has two, with the value changing depending on the focal length), and you're not satifisied with the shutter speeds you are achieving, then you could switch to full manual exposure.

A model with aperture priority makes this easier though (since you can simply select the largest available aperture to let in the most light, and let the camera automatically select the shutter speed needed for proper exposure).


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Old Nov 30, 2004, 2:26 PM   #9
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Shutter speed can be changed from 30 seconds (very blurry, for night shots w/ tripod) to 1/1000 of a second. To do this:

1) go to Manual mode

2) press the middle button that is surrounded by Flash, Review, Macro and Self-Timer; this activates the Aperture (left-right) and Shutter Speeds (up-down) modes

3) press up to decrease shutter speed (ie. closer to the maximal of 1/1000); this should allow you to take great shots even if the camera is wobbling in your hands

Try it out.

MECH out
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Old Nov 30, 2004, 3:13 PM   #10
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mech14 wrote:
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Shutter speed can be changed from 30 seconds (very blurry, for night shots w/ tripod) to 1/1000 of a second. To do this:

1) go to Manual mode

2) press the middle button that is surrounded by Flash, Review, Macro and Self-Timer; this activates the Aperture (left-right) and Shutter Speeds (up-down) modes

3) press up to decrease shutter speed (ie. closer to the maximal of 1/1000); this should allow you to take great shots even if the camera is wobbling in your hands
Yes, manual exposure is a way to control shutter speed. But, you must select a speed that is appropriate for the aperture selected and the lighting conditions. Otherwise, you'll get overexposed or underexposed photos.

For example, you can't simply select 1/1000 second and expect your photos to come out properly exposed. If the light is not bright enough, you'll get dark photos.

The camera will show you how your settings are impacting exposure with an EV indication on the LCD. So, if you're underexposing your photos, you'll need to use a slower speed (and/or larger aperture), or if you're overexposing your photos, you'll need to use a faster shutter speed (and/or smaller aperture).

The fastest shutter speed you'll be able to get (and still have a properly exposed image) will depend on the aperture selected (with the largest available aperture of f/2.8 at full wide angle, dropping down to f/5.2 at full zoom), the lighting conditions, and the ISO speed.




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