Boating Pics

[shoturtle]

Yes it the short answer. It is a much faster lens to AF and brighter. That is why it is 2500 dollars for the nikon one.

[shoturtle]

Actually focus distance can change when tolling, if you catch the tube on a turn. So it depends on the situation of the shot weather faster AF is needed.

[TCav]

Originally Posted by wolverines

Thanks TCav. So in P Mode, I can get a faster shutter speed than in Sports Mode? I really appreciate the help. Also, would a better lens say a 70-200 2.8 give me better results than my 55-200 4-5.6? I am outside with good lighting so would it be worth upgrading my lens too?

You can adjust the shutter speed in P (Programmed Auto) Mode to any setting within the limitations of the camera, and within the aperture and ISO ranges capable of producing a proper exposure. It's called Flexible Program, and is described on page 81 of the User's Manual. That's something you can't do in Sports Mode.

There are reasons to get a 70-200/2.8 lens, but this isn't one of them. The subject is at the end of a line that doesn't change it's length (very much.) If you can keep the focus point on the tube, you won't have any trouble with the lens not keeping the tube in focus. It may move back and forth across your field of view, but it won't get any closer or further away. So the lens you've got should work fine.

But if you were photographing a tube towed by another boat, for instance, that's a different story. For that, you'd probably not get very good results with the 55-200.

[wolverines]

TCav...Thanks so much for your time. Don't know if I'll get a chance to get back out in the boat until next summer but I will definately try what you said. I just wish it wasn't so hard to see what works and doesn't when you are stuck in a boat and can't see your results. I tried some manual shots with an iso of 2500 and my shots came out way overexposed but I didn't know that until I was back at the cabin to check them out. Thanks again!!

[JohnG]

One other thing - exif data is missing so I can't see what the focal length is - but these shots are framed extremely loosely. That's going to lead to focus problems. If you're at full zoom on the lens then the focal length is too short. If you're not at full zoom you need to zoom in much tighter (fill 1/2 the frame at least with the tube and people) - you'll see much more accurate focus results.

I wouldn't worry about focus speed on the lens - the subject is not changing focal planes at a fast pace here -even in turns. And you're not alternating between subjects like you would in say team sports. Fill the frame better and the shots will get sharper.

[DSProtection]

You could also shoot in A mode. Use the biggest aparteure you have om the lens.

If you are going to shoot these kind of shots often I would also be thinking about buying the Nikon 70-300VR lens, which is a great lens for all kinds of shots. With that lens you will get a faster AF, and you also have active VR which is perfect when shooting from a boat.

Take a look at my thread "Watersports and fun"

These pics are all shot with a Nikon D5000 and a Nikon 70-300VR lens. I shot all these pics in A-mode with an aparteure between 4,5 and 5,6.

Best regards/Daniel

[wolverines]

I was looking at Mark2009 and his boating pics. Some commented on how is shots were too tight. Are mine too loose? Should I try and get a happy medium between our two? I like Marks sharpness better than mine but I think I just need some more practice. However, the footing in a moving boat makes it hard to capture the aerial shots. Thanks for the advice and to Mark with his boating pics too!!

[Mark2009]

Wolve,
I think your action shots are great, I think you need to change out of the canned sports mode to the adjustments some had said, also I send you a note on what I did. When I took mine, the tube was huge, and it was really rough out on the lake, so it was kinda dangerous to try to get air, etc...so I did my best for my first try.
Aruba trip is my next adventure!!