More basketball from the BBL

[Frisky]

I tried to follow the expert words of JohnGat my latest two games.

I couldn't use the manual settingas I needed to go to TV mode and use two stops over, even with my 50mm1.8 lens. My home venue (Newcastle)is soo dark. slightly better results away at London I upped the speed and ISO at both venues.

Away at London





Home at Newcastle.

[JohnG]

2nd shot is much better than the first from a sharpness aspect. Shot 2 is still a bit soft but much better. If you could, please post unedited versions of your photos - I'm guessing the softness may be related to the subjects being too far away but can't tell without the original uncropped shots. That's a big challenge with working with the 50mm lens - you only get accurate focus out to about 15 feet from your shooting position.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"Also, did you apply any USM? if not, the second shot could become quite good with it. The focus is just off on shot 1and USM isn't likely to help.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"Finally - were you using single focus point (and if so, which one) or all focus points?

[JohnG]

also on shot 1 - the exif says ISO 800, 1/250. You should really be shooting ISO 1600 and 1/500. 1/250 is too slow for basketball.

[JohnG]

Frisky wrote:

I couldn't use the manual settingas I needed to go to TV mode and use two stops over, even with my 50mm1.8 lens.

Frisky, forgot to address this point. What does the fact the venue is dark have to do with whether or not you can use manual exposure? If proper exposure is ISO 1600, f1.8 and 1/320 there is nothing stopping you from setting all those parameters in manual exposure. But shooting TV WILL cause you to get a wide variety of exposures depending on what jerseys are in the frame. But remember, it's the faces, not the jerseys you want to expose properly.

Heck, I shot a gymnastics meet in a gym so dark, proper exposure was ISO 6400, 2.00 and 1/400. So, converted to ISO 1600 (limit on the 400d) and 1.8, that would have been a shutter speed of 1/125 and manual exposure was still the right way to set exposure. I simply set ISO to 6400, shutter speed to 1/400 and aperture to f2.0 (because those are the values that exposed the faces properly).

The only thing that controls whether or not to use manual exposure is whether or not lighting is CONSISTENT. Indoors, lighting may be bad but it's CONSISTANTLY bad.

[Frisky]

Thanks John G for taking the time out to reply and assist.

I have only used curves in CS2 for the home shot, I know i am just learning but what do you mean by USM (:?)

I looked at your shots taken at ISO2000 and they are sooo crisp and clear,very impressive.

Thanks,

Dave

I will crank up things as suggested and fingers crossed.

[Frisky]

John G, just had a look thru some other shots and this one, taken after your advice , was at 1/320th and ISO1600.

I like this shot as the whole of the opposition team are within 4 feet of Lynard Stewart and are "just admiring" a great basket!

[JohnG]

Frisky wrote:

I have only used curves in CS2 for the home shot, I know i am just learning but what do you mean by USM (:?)

USM stands for UnSharp Mask. It's a term left over from film days. Basically it's a way to sharpen photos.

CS2 has the tool. Just go under Filter >> Sharpen >> Unsharp Mask. Try these values to start:

Amount: 89%

Radius: 7 pixels

Threshold: 0

you can look up help text and do searches on the internet to learn more about what each parameter does. I would suggest playing with them until you get a look YOU prefer.

[DRGSin]

Welcome to the humbling world of indoor sports. Theres only one way to get consistently perfect results-strobing, everything else is a compromise-some compromise less(John G)than others. Next to strobing is hugely expensive equipment. Having said that, Im of the opinion that this is THE most difficult aspect of photography so dont fret the big learning curve. On the plus side, #1 youre shooting and hopefully enjoying it. #2, youve got good timing and #3 a good eye forwhat makes a sport shot composition palatable. I started with a 50 f1.4 myself, and actually still use it. The biggest difference however, is I have access to the baseline under the basket-nice and close.As was mentioned, once you start cropping things get ugly. Also, as John pointed out, shoot full manual. Youll learn your camera and what it takes to make it do things YOU want it to do....even if it means only a keeper or two at first. Eventually youll get to the point where you could walk into any gym and mentally figure out the settings it will take to shoot, and be pretty close. Practice your focusing techniques, which is a difficult task in this sport and the very small DOF created by that lens. For example, the ref to the left of theframe in the first shot seems to be in focus, while the main subjects are not. The 2nd is much better but the 3rd is also off. The "waiting" players are in focus while the shooter isnt. Listen to John's advice-he's helped many of us in here that were where you now are. One last comment-whats with the guys in the 1st pic?? Ive never seen body builders play basketball. Theyre HUGE!Good luck and keep posting.

[Frisky]

More from the BBL.

You guys in the US are soo lucky having some gyms with a bit of decent lighting.

My home team sponsors want the place pretty dark to show the sponsors messages!



Two shots, both taken with 400D, 50mmf1.8 at 1/320th second and ISO1600

AWB.

No cropping, or CS2 workstraight from the camera.

I hope to get a 85mm1.8 next week.












Any tips ?

[JohnG]

Both shots are back focused. The defender behind him is in better (but not sharp) focus.