Steve's Digicams Forums

Steve's Digicams Forums (https://forums.steves-digicams.com/)
-   Sports & Action Photos (https://forums.steves-digicams.com/sports-action-photos-75/)
-   -   Soccer (https://forums.steves-digicams.com/sports-action-photos-75/soccer-177508/)

gwill Sep 24, 2010 8:57 AM

Soccer
 
2 Attachment(s)
First time posting any pictures. I know I have a lot to learn and would like some feedback. I am new to all this. A canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 IS with a canon 1.4 II extender was used. Thanks
1.
Attachment 163242

2.
Attachment 163243

Mark1616 Sep 24, 2010 10:00 AM

Glad that you were brave enough to put some photos up, this is the key area of making progress.

Firstly your settings are totally wrong for sports, the aperture is too small and the ISO is through the roof to get the shutter speed up.

You basically want to shoot with the widest aperture possible (small f number) which lets more light into the camera and also helps reduce the depth of field isolating the subject.

The first shot seems to be focused on the man in the background and the 2nd I'm not totally sure of.

Both shots have good aspects, you have faces, the ball and some action, but you need to get in tighter.

This thread might help out, it's a bit old but still holds true. New to sports shooting and wonder if you can improve?!?!

I can see you have a 40D but what lens are you using?

Really hope this helps you to move to the next level :)

JohnG Sep 24, 2010 10:16 AM

Welcome to the sports forum! Here is some feedback on your shots:
shot 1: There are a number of things you can do to improve this type of shot. First, the shot is framed way too loosely. I see it was at 280mm. If you have more zoom, then use it. If you don't, then this action is too far away to accurately capture detail. The next thing is the player is drastically under-exposed. This happens when you let the camera do the metering. The grass, building, etc are all exposed well but the only thing you care about - the player is not. Perfect example of why manual exposure is appropriate. You set the manual exposure for faces and then you don't worry about the metering getting thrown by other subjects. Along those same lines - when I look at the EXIF, several problems jump out - ISO 1600 and f13. No need to use such high values for either. If you have an f5.6 lens - when you dial in your manual exposure, set it to f5.6 and set your ISO to 400 to start. Then adjust shutter speed to get exposure correct (for faces). So, in this example you had ISO 1600, f13 and 1/2500. Now,.for sake of argument, let's say the shot is 1 stop under-exposed (for the face). That means ISO 1600, f13 and 1/1250 would be correct. So, let's adjust ISO / aperture to get them to more appropriate values. F13 is 2 1/3 stops above f5.6. So, if we open up aperture 2 1/3 stops to f5.6, we can then lower ISO 2 1/3 stops to ISO 320. ISO 320, f5.6 and 1/1250 are much more appropriate values.


Now, since you're shooting with manual exposure - you'll need to make several other settings adjustments:
1) set focus mode to AI-Servo
2) select center focus point
3) set shooting to continuous.

shot 2: exif has been removed so I can't tell what settings you used. But you have the same exposure issues - which will get corrected when you shoot manual exposure. The subject is also out of focus so I'm not sure if you had ai-servo engaged.

gwill Sep 24, 2010 3:12 PM

thanks for the help. I have a canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 IS. I also had a canon 1.4 II extender on. Is it ok to go with the extender? Even thought of using a 2x extender. I know that will bump up my f#, but is that ok since I am outside?

Mark1616 Sep 24, 2010 3:46 PM

I've used a 2x on mine and it's ok but not as good as bare or with a 1.4x. Keep things simple, use the 1.4x but frame tight, keep to about 30 yards as a maximum and frame tight. Shooting at f4 is ok and sharp enough.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 9:22 PM.