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Old Aug 9, 2007, 11:50 AM   #1
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Any suggestions to getting bettershots with a 70-200 f4? Iv'e got a Minolta5D, so I can getto ISO 3200,and the lens is the oldMinolta 70-200 f4. (thebeercan lens) I also will be using amonopod. I have the 3500HSD flash, but not sure if using that will cause any hassle with the coaches or officials. Thanks in advance for any tips! )
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Old Aug 9, 2007, 12:07 PM   #2
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You are going to be working in one of the hardest environments which even with the most desired kit is tough work. Every venue is different and lights vary so this might work in your favor or not, just depends.

One place I shoot (well try not to but can't always get away with it) gives me 1/320th at ISO 3200 and f2.8 with a very slight under exposure and another gives 1/400th at ISO 3200 and f2.8 with correct exposure. With your f4 you are looking at 1/160th and 1/200th if you have the same brightness lights. Now in the US you might be better off than the fields here I have no idea.

If working at the low shutter speeds you are going to really struggle getting good results as there will be a load of motion blur so the flash is likely to be your biggest help. Now I would still suggest working at high ISO but poss drop to 1600 so you are not making the flash work too hard and will assist in getting multiple shots. Use manual camera settings and I would suggest trying 1/320th, f4 and ISO 1600 as the flash will assist in removing motion blur and see what you get.

As for the monopod that is up to you, I only usually use mine when I have the heavy Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 on but no my lighter 70-200mm f2.8.

Before using flash I would suggest asking someone in the know on the field, an official or coach. Is it a child of yours you are wanting to shoot, if so then checking with their coach is a good start.

Good luck.
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Old Aug 9, 2007, 4:39 PM   #3
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In short, my experiences parallel Mark's. When I shoot HS football or soccer under the lights - by the time it's dark I'm using ISO 3200 and getting 1/320 - 1/400.

So, by the time it's full dark your f4 lens won't be of much use without a flash. Flash is typically allowed in every HS football/soccer venue in Ohio and I would guess from other posts I've seen in many other states as well. Contrary to myths the flash does not distract the players - for the most part they don't even notice it (remember you're not standing 5 feet in front of them with them looking directly at you).

So, first bit of advice - get as many shots as possible early when lighting is better.

Buy a bracket for the flash and when the lighting gets worse use the flash with bracket.

In all cases, stick to action that is within 25 yards of your shooting position. If you shoot cross field you're wasting your time. You may also have to switch over to single shot (rather than burst) unless your flash recharges especially fast.
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Old Sep 9, 2007, 9:17 AM   #4
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I would beg to differ on the flash use. Yes it is allowed but then again most people allowing it never stepped foot on a field and stapped it up. I not only shoot football but I was on the other end catching those passes when 3, 4 or 6 flashes would go off (and yes it is distracting). Nigh football while being shot in a cave (Most High School fields) is all about the glass. 2.8 or better and IS is what makes the photo. do notcostthe kids a big play so you can say I got the shot. Save your cash, no more Macky "D"'s at lunch and get some good glass 70 - 200 IS 2.8L wouldget the job done and for day shoots you can use the 1.4 tele. Remember this isnt about us anymore it's there time to shine. I know I dont want to be the guy that might cost them a game and say look I got this great shot of you dropping the pass to win the game. I say this because most photographers are right there on the side lines or in the endzone and with the size glass you areusing f4, that is where you would need to be. If your back far enough away (at the fence area) then a flash would be fine but again probably not very effective. Food for thought.
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Old Sep 9, 2007, 1:55 PM   #5
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I don't think this is the place to worry about flash being distracting and checking with the coach etc should sort that out.

What I would say is getting a 2.8 lens is going to be much better (yes really.... I love stating the obvious) but going to cost quite a bit.

Subdoc wrote:
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Nigh football while being shot in a cave (Most High School fields) is all about the glass. 2.8 or better and IS is what makes the photo. do notcostthe kids a big play so you can say I got the shot. Save your cash, no more Macky "D"'s at lunch and get some good glass 70 - 200 IS 2.8L wouldget the job done and for day shoots you can use the 1.4 tele.
That lens is a terrible waste of money for jfl1964 so don't whatever you do get it!!! Reason, he is shooting KONICA MINOLTA 5D. Look at the Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 (they do come up 2nd hand) orMinolta (now Sony if new) 70-200mm f2.8 G.

The KM5Ddoes have IS built in and you canleave it on or off won't be an issue. Going back to IS on a in lens system (Canon/Nikon),even with options of mode 1 or 2 I would completely turn it off as it will inhibit what you are trying to do withpanning for sports.I only use it when trying to hold the lens still in low light when shutter speeds are down.
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Old Sep 9, 2007, 3:38 PM   #6
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Mark, let me take off my photographer's hat for a second and put on my coach's one. I will not allow a photographer behind the goal line during a soccer match, period, and I will positively throw a fit if a referee allows a flash to be shot from there. I also don't allow children to play behind the nets or people to be walking around, just hanging around to be sociable. Not only do I not want my players' attention diverted, I know from experience that referees are trained to react to movement, and I don't want excess movement going on that is going to distract them from action in the box.

Down the touchlines, I have no objection to flash between the 18's.

As a photographer, I prefer shooting available light for several reasons, not the least of which is the slow recharge time of flashes which take away burst mode.
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Old Sep 13, 2007, 1:15 PM   #7
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IS on the 70-200 isn't really going to help. Yes, you can shoot slower without blur due to camera shake, but under 1/200, you are probably going to get alot of player motion blur.

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