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Old Jul 19, 2008, 7:25 AM   #1
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Hi all,

I have some 250ws studio lights. I would like to limit the flash out put of these lights without moving them (space is an issue). The output control range on these studio lights i have is only 1/8 - full power. I want to use the widest aperture possible on my lens, f2.8, to take advantage of the short DOF. But even at 1/8 power, there is too much light in the entire scene.

I have taken a few images to show what sort of lighting I am after:

To get the lighting for f14portrait.jpg, I did the following:

-Closed the aperture to f14
-Turned the m-250's power down to 1/8
-Shot a range of photos using a shoot through or a white umbrella -Got in very close to the flash

If I open up the aperture to f8 (image; f8portrait), it is almost right, with just a little too much light on the subject. Unfortunately, using this stop, there is too much depth of field. But as I open the aperture further, there is too much background exposure.

In reality, I would like more of the background shown in the image, but not exposed too much. I have attached f2.8room and f6.3room to show how much room I would like. In addition, to eliminate light bounce around the room I aimed the brolly directly to the floor. F6.3 room is ok, but I really want to have the choice of lighting the subject using f2.8, similar to the subject in f2.8portrait.

Other than increasing flash and camera distance from the subject (space is an issue), would a softbox or some other modifier reduce the power of the lights further? Would shooting into/through dark cloth do the trick?

There is probably a simple solution to this issue that I have missed. I have tried a few different experiments and will try more as they come to mind. I will also look for a professional shot of what I am seeing in my mind.

I have just thought of my next experiment, I will shoot at f14 and use another light on the background. But then, there is still a problem with to much depth of field. I will also get on the forums to see what ideas I can try. For now though, I am going to sleep on it.

Regards
Alf...
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 7:32 AM   #2
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Image f8portrait
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 7:33 AM   #3
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Image f6.3room
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 7:33 AM   #4
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Image f2.8room
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 10:30 AM   #5
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Hi Alf,

Do you have a "FLASH" meter?
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 9:18 PM   #6
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Hi Ronnie,

Not yet.

I have been looking at the entry level Sekonic one: http://www.sekonic.com/products/products.asp?ID=3

Regards
Alf...
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Old Jul 20, 2008, 4:30 PM   #7
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Neutral density filters? They come in 1, 2 and 3 stop. A polarizer should be good for 1-2 stops as well.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 4:15 AM   #8
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Hi Bob,

Excellent, I will give them a go...

Cheers
Alf....


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Old Jul 27, 2008, 8:26 AM   #9
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Hi all,

This forum: http://photo.net/photography-lightin...s-forum/00Iknm
mentions some stuff called: Architects' Vellum.

Anyone have experience with this stuff?

I havn't got any ND filters yet, but will in the near future!

Regards
Alf...
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Old Aug 12, 2008, 4:07 AM   #10
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Hi all,

Would a snoot or a honey comb grid help solve my problem...

I am sure I can direct the light of a snoot, but does this compress all the light together to make it even brighter on the subject?

I have read that the honey comb grid also allows directional light to be controlled. I have found these images: http://davidhonl.blogspot.com/2008/0...their-way.html
But I am unsure how these would work in a darker environment.

Has someone fired a few shots similar to mine that they can post or email to me so I can compare?

Regards
Alf...


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