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Old May 22, 2011, 11:27 PM   #1
NLA
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Default Question On Light Kit, That I Just Bought.

Just yesterday I bought a ProMaster (300Watts x 2) light Strobe kit. I couldn't wait to test it out so, last night, I set one of the units up, and began playing around with it. I can already tell that I am going to have a LOT of fun shooting with them, once I get the hang of using BOTH. What I mean by that is this:

Each of the strobes came with a cord which allows them to be physically integrated with one's camera. If just one unit is to be utilized, there is no problem. But what does one do when BOTH of the lamps are desired to be in use at the same time? There is no additional connecting piece on the camera, so that's out. Outside of that, all I can think of would be some kinda wireless setup, but that would seem to spell out an additional expense for such a needed component to make that available.

The 'manual' that came with my strobe kit was just one page long (), and left much to be desired (especially for someone new to studio lights). I have to search around for the manuals to my cameras, as they may have some information in them regarding the marrying of them to Strobes.

But any helpful information, that someone could impart to me, would mean very much.
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Old May 23, 2011, 8:40 PM   #2
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If your ProMaster strobes use PC sync cords that where the connector looks like a very tiny coax connector then you could try a General Brand 3-Way Flash Sync Adapter http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...c_Adapter.html It probably has three female and one male connector. You may need a PC female to PC male cable from the 3-Way to the camera.

A wireless set up is much better, more reliable and less likely to trip over the cables and dump everything on the floor.
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Old Jun 29, 2011, 8:54 PM   #3
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The Promaster 300, and most strobes, have slave capability. As long as you are not at a public event where others are taking flash pictures, like a wedding, set one of the units to slave. Connect the other to your camera via the PC cord. When the camera fires the first one, it will tigger the second strobe to fire.
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Old Jun 29, 2011, 11:54 PM   #4
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thanks, Bob & Tizeye.

It turned out that all was quite well. By cording my camera to one of the strobe units, and slaving the other, I am able to put both strobes to task.

I have a fair bit to learn, about using my light kit, which means that I may have to put off getting a wireless option, for it, until I have gained a much better understanding of how my kit should be 'properly' used.

Again, many thanks to you both.

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Old Jun 30, 2011, 7:26 AM   #5
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Definately get to know the 2 strobe set-up and feel comfortable with it. Experiment not only with live subjects, but still life objects.

As you advance, you may already have an obvious addition. A separate speedlight for your camera, assuming not using the pop-up. You don't have to buy a 3rd strobe. Use the speedlight for backlight fill, or a hair-light on portraits (make snoot to concentrate light from a cereal box). If the speedlight doesn't have a built in optical slave, you can purchase a hotshoe attachment for less than $20, and your strobes will fire it.

While the above will be very efficient, getting rid of the PC cord with wireless "radio" triggers really frees you up. Could probably get by with a transmitter and single receiver set with the optical triggers supplimenting. These range from the gold standard, Pocket Wizards, around $350 for the basic PW to less than $50 for the Yongnuo. I am very dissatisfied with my cactus V5, also in the lower price range, as I hold my breath wondering if the will work at each job - so much so that the last job I resurected the V4's and applied an electrical tape trick to stop the one unit from shorting that I learned from the V5's. Seriously considering the intermediate priced Radio Popper or cybersyncs, around $150 set + $99 per additional receiver, that would allow me to set power levels from the transmitter on the camera - but requires a receiver at each unit, unless I manually set the power level at units without a receiver firing on the optical signal.

The other advantage of wireless radio is that it is not limited to a formal stufio setup. You can take the speedlight off the camera when away from the studio, using an adjacent wall for bounce to spread light and munimize shaddows and/or harsh direct light on your subject.
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Old Jun 30, 2011, 8:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tizeye View Post
Definately get to know the 2 strobe set-up and feel comfortable with it. Experiment not only with live subjects, but still life objects.

As you advance, you may already have an obvious addition. A separate speedlight for your camera, assuming not using the pop-up. You don't have to buy a 3rd strobe. Use the speedlight for backlight fill, or a hair-light on portraits (make snoot to concentrate light from a cereal box). If the speedlight doesn't have a built in optical slave, you can purchase a hotshoe attachment for less than $20, and your strobes will fire it.

While the above will be very efficient, getting rid of the PC cord with wireless "radio" triggers really frees you up. Could probably get by with a transmitter and single receiver set with the optical triggers supplimenting. These range from the gold standard, Pocket Wizards, around $350 for the basic PW to less than $50 for the Yongnuo. I am very dissatisfied with my cactus V5, also in the lower price range, as I hold my breath wondering if the will work at each job - so much so that the last job I resurected the V4's and applied an electrical tape trick to stop the one unit from shorting that I learned from the V5's. Seriously considering the intermediate priced Radio Popper or cybersyncs, around $150 set + $99 per additional receiver, that would allow me to set power levels from the transmitter on the camera - but requires a receiver at each unit, unless I manually set the power level at units without a receiver firing on the optical signal.

The other advantage of wireless radio is that it is not limited to a formal stufio setup. You can take the speedlight off the camera when away from the studio, using an adjacent wall for bounce to spread light and munimize shaddows and/or harsh direct light on your subject.
Yes indeed,I do intend to practice with 'Still-Life' objects, as well. And, yes, I do have a speed light (SB800), which should serve the '3rd strobe' issue well. Eventually, I will spring for a wireless transmitter, and hope to have saved (by that time) enough funds by which to avail myself of the Pocket Wizard.

Thanks very much, for your input. I appreciate it very much.
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Old Jul 5, 2011, 10:40 PM   #7
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Default Blazzeo strobe units & remote triggers/receivers

Gidday Nathan

Quote:
Originally Posted by NLA View Post
Just yesterday I bought a ProMaster (300Watts x 2) light Strobe kit. I couldn't wait to test it out so, last night, I set one of the units up, and began playing around with it. I can already tell that I am going to have a LOT of fun shooting with them, once I get the hang of using BOTH. What I mean by that is this:

Each of the strobes came with a cord which allows them to be physically integrated with one's camera. If just one unit is to be utilized, there is no problem. But what does one do when BOTH of the lamps are desired to be in use at the same time? There is no additional connecting piece on the camera, so that's out. Outside of that, all I can think of would be some kinda wireless setup, but that would seem to spell out an additional expense for such a needed component to make that available.
This can be very confusing.

Quote:
The 'manual' that came with my strobe kit was just one page long (), and left much to be desired (especially for someone new to studio lights).
You lucky devil, you . My Blazzeo 3x 180W strobe kit came with everything except meaningful instructions ... . Fortunately I am fairly good at things technical and mechanical.

Quote:
I have to search around for the manuals to my cameras, as they may have some information in them regarding the marrying of them to Strobes.

But any helpful information, that someone could impart to me, would mean very much.
I cannot recommend the book "Light: Science and Magic" too highly. It taught me more about lighting (both natural and flash/studio) in a week than I had learned in the previous 50 years or so ...

The whole Blazzeo kit cost me about Oz $310 delivered.
Here is the mini-review I wrote for the place I bought my Blazzeo kit from ( http://www.linkdelight.com/D3Q-540w-...Carry-Bag.html ):

"Much better than expected.

This kit sure isn't Elinchrom or Bowen standard, but it sure isn't junk either ...

It comes complete with everything you need with the exception of a table-top light tent and scoop (aka "sweep" in some places).

I rated ease of use down a point as the instructions are pretty sketchy, and this could make things difficult for those with limited or non-existent mechanical/technical aptitude.

It would be dishonest of me to state that it gets 5 stars for build quality. I have used Bowen/Elinchrom strobes at our photo club, and they are designed to be used 8 hours a day, 5 days a week for years. They also cost a bomb ...

The Blazzeo strobes do not even have a replaceable flash tube, but at under US $40 for a complete new head - so what?

The 220V units have a flaky two pin to Australian three pin adapter. The pins are too fine, and do not grip sufficiently well for electrical safety, IMNSHO. I bought some figure-8 cable three pin plugs and re-wired the three power cords.

The whole package is competently designed, and the carry bag is commodious, well designed and made, and has plenty of room for some additional items such as a power board and extension cord, a cover sheet for the light tent, bulldog clips for holding the sheet on the light tent frame, and such like.

The 16 channel remote will function perfectly with all three of my Olympus dSLR cameras (E-1, E-510, E-30) and if one sets the DIP switches #1 & #4 to OFF, the other two DIP switches are then compatible with the Blazzeo 4 channel receivers. I tested this at our photo club.

It sure takes the pain out of photographing ceramics ... I took 280 photographs of about 70 items in around 5.5 hours. Only about 3 were not acceptable. This compares favourably with 4 hours to get one acceptable image using a light tent and off camera flashes with diffusers ..."

Hope this drivel is of some benefit.
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Olympus dSLR bodies: E-30, E-510, E-1
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