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Old Aug 26, 2004, 7:08 AM   #21
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FYI The 21st Century Light Meter: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...stograms.shtml
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Old Sep 10, 2004, 2:20 AM   #22
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Hey NHL, after going back and reviewing these forums I didn't realize how many interactions we have had. You have provided me a lot of really great information in quite a few different areas.

Thank you

This information has definately lead me down a path to becomming a better photographer.
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Old Sep 10, 2004, 8:17 AM   #23
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It works both way, I "learned" a lot too from posters...

BTW you may look into theses for your lone Alien Bee: http://www.photoflex.com/photoflex/i...product=oval&1
Kalypso here is a master at this art of simplicity! :-):-):-)
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Old Sep 10, 2004, 3:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
BTW you may look into theses for your lone Alien Bee: http://www.photoflex.com/photoflex/i...uct=oval&1
I did not see any prices for these reflectors, are they reasonably priced? Are there advantages to reflectors over a second strobe.

I have tried over and over to make my 420EX work as fill flash with the AB800 as main. "It doesn't WORK!". It is excellent advice to definately get the Sigma 500DG Super over the 420EX. I just wish I had read this review before I purchased. So that idea and masking the pins, etc. is OUT!

I need filllight, tried using my old hot lamp for fill -(NOT!).

O.K. so Iam ordering a secondAB. Should I get an AB400 backdrop kit with barndoors or another AB800 beginner bee with 60" umbrella. I would prefer to stay with all AB800 because the price gap is so small. I just don't know which type of diffuser / light shaper to get next. I would like to practice setting ratio's between main and fill 2:1, 3:1 etc.I am not too concern with lighting my backdrops yet because I hate the ones I have. I do want a more balanced light on the model so that I don't get one side of her face nicely litand the other side dark. Idid not think of putting the strobe directly behind me facing straightat the model so I could light both sides equally. However,this techniquegets a little tough because I often work in small areas.

What do you suggest?

PS - the light meter does not make a huge difference, but it certainly helps. It does not solve all of your lighting issues. You still have to adjust due to reflected light comming off white walls or other highly reflective surfaces around model. So this is where my histogram training helps.
  1. my process is use corded light meter to sample light set shutter speed at75 aperture at what ever meter suggests.[/*]
  2. plug in Nikon hotshoe PC/ Converter take first shot with camera and review histogram and or LCD. Looking for space on both left and right of histo with no clipping or color spikes.[/*]
  3. readjust aperture or shutter speed to get the look I want (lighter or darker).[/*]
  4. Or readjust power on stobe to get the look and feel I want high key, low key, etc.
[/*]
Does adjusting the shutter speed even make a difference with strobes? between 75 - 200 I can't tell much of a difference.


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Old Sep 10, 2004, 4:04 PM   #25
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minutephotos.com wrote:
Quote:
I did not see any prices for these reflectors, are they reasonably priced? Are there advantages to reflectors over a second strobe.
It's cheaper! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...rch&Q=&ci=6197
They would use the same stand and share the accessories that would need for that 2nd strobes


Quote:
I would prefer to stay with all AB800 because the price gap is so small. I just don't know which type of diffuser / light shaper to get next. I would like to practice setting ratio's between main and fill 2:1, 3:1 etc.
I'll go for a 2nd 800 as well. It makes working with Ratio much easier (ie adjust 1/2, 1/4 the mechanical settings etc... assumimg the same reflector) than another head with a different power output that one have to measure.


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I am not too concern with lighting my backdrops yet because I hate the ones I have.
Moving the strobes away from the model and the backdrop will help getting rid of the backdrop. The light fall-off will darken out the background...


Quote:
Does adjusting the shutter speed even make a difference with strobes? between 75 - 200 I can't tell much of a difference.
Short answer: NO
Long answer: A slower shutter speed will let you mix in the ambient light (along with a larger aperture) if it's bright enough, or fill using your old hot lamp (but the color will not match!) - even 1/30s shutter speed will work since the duration of the strobe pulse is so short that it will freeze anything!
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Old Sep 10, 2004, 5:39 PM   #26
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I have a Canon G5, (no pc terminal) . I've found that the "Wein Safe Sync, HSHSBD" will work fine with most digital cameras and what it does is , it gives you a pc terminal connection for your camera. It slides right on to your hotshoe and you just plug in your pc cord to itand fire away ! It's an easy simple solution and for me, it works . The "Wein Safe Sync, HSHSBD" retails for about $60
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Old Sep 11, 2004, 1:17 AM   #27
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Thanks for the info NHL. If I have to buy the light stand and reflector I might as well get the strobe and stand. I was always working toward having two ab800 and one ab400 for backdrop or hair light. I would likt to get one of those sun diffusers to block too much sun like on a beach or something, but that will be later.

I have noticed what you are talking about with the light not matching when trying to mix hot lamps with strobes. The hotlamps have a orange tint while the stobes are crisp white. I thought it would be the same because I use the same buld I use in my hotlamps for the modelinglamp in the strobes. I only recently notice the modelinglamp turns off before the strobe fires and turns back on when the strobe is ready to fire again. (tracking mode)

You have also explained why I can't set my flash meter to shutter priority when in flash mode :idea:. Because only the aperture matters.

But, do you suggest I get another 60" umbrella or barndoors on second strobe?
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Old Sep 11, 2004, 7:12 AM   #28
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chuckie_237 wrote:
"I have a Canon G5, (no pc terminal) . I've found that the "Wein Safe Sync, HSHSBD" will work fine with most digital cameras and what it does is , it gives you a pc terminal connection for your camera. It slides right on to your hotshoe and you just plug in your pc cord to it and fire away ! It's an easy simple solution and for me, it works . The "Wein Safe Sync, HSHSBD" retails for about $60"

Congratulation!!!

You've just spent 6x the $$$ when a simple hot-shoe to PC adapter will do: http://www.adorama.com/FAHSPCA.html !

FYI the Alien Bees are 6V: http://www.alienbees.com/allspecs.htm

You can treat yourself to a multi-color reflector for just the difference in cost: http://www.adorama.com/JTFR42GW.html
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Old Sep 11, 2004, 7:27 AM   #29
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minutephotos.com wrote:
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Thanks for the info NHL. If I have to buy the light stand and reflector I might as well get the strobe and stand. I was always working toward having two ab800 and one ab400 for backdrop or hair light. I would likt to get one of those sun diffusers to block too much sun like on a beach or something, but that will be later.
I don't think you get it:
Reflector panels - $40 to $80 depending on brand
Another B800 - $279 plus cost of the attachments (umbrellas/diffuser, etc)

-> 1. The stand is a common item, regardless which way you go with!!!
-> 2. They are smaller and much more portable to set-up or fold-away.
-> 3. Who say you can't use thoses reflectors outdoor... in many cases they work better than flash for fill-in under the sun

:idea: Relax - Slow Down :idea:
This is all about "controlling" light, not "getting more" light!
- Order the stand
- Get the reflector panel(s)
- Play around with placements (ie distance/angles)
... You'll be amazed with the results, and you can always spend that $300 later :-)
Check the above link for a generic brand which is cheaper in $. You'll need them eventually regardless of which way you go. Imagine what you can do with them when mounted @ different angles...

See what you can do with one head (with the strobe facing the camera): http://www.friedmanarchives.com/flash.htm



BTW this guy did it all in automatic (wireless TTL) with no flashmeter!!!
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Old Sep 11, 2004, 5:08 PM   #30
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Quote:
Moving the strobes away from the model and the backdrop will help getting rid of the backdrop. The light fall-off will darken out the background...
Hmmm.....you sure? Unless I misread you, if you keep the model distance to bkgrnd the same, moving the strobe away won'tdarken the effect on the bkgrnd. You need to move the model and light away from the background.Or, if space does not allow this, youcan move the strobe closer to the model (say twice as close)while the bkgrnd remains the same distance. Then thenew exposurefor the model (about 2 stops) is much greater than the increase on the bkgrnd. So the newaperture will provide less light on the bkgrnd, making it darker. At least, that's my understanding of it.
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