[Recovered Thread: 112774]

[O.S.]

the shots are fine as they are , when edited in photoshop they do have somewhat more punch to them

if you just increase in-camera saturation and sharpness and may be contrast (not always the best thing) they will look more vivid

[Reanimator]

thought u ment more like this



twin exposed shot, blended, then curves tweaked and unsharp mask.......no colour adjustment or other tinkering

Gary

[O.S.]

nice one Gary, I like the idea of taking shots at different exposure and then blending them in photoshop ... I'll use it ... I never thought of this , THANKS!

[RP33]

I like that idea too.

How can you get the effect like if almost 3 D?

[slipe]

I don't really know how to get your 3D effect. But you can improve your images in Photoshop.

Shoot with minimum contrast and sharpening in the camera. Minimum contrast gives more dynamic range. You will decrease the dynamic range in post processing or they look flat, but you can choose which end of the range you want to lose. What I call the "defogging" step that eric s described increases the contrast, so if you start with a high contrast that can cause it to look too contrasty. I use a lesser amount and higher radius, but Eric's method is probably better for your DSLR images. Small sensor cameras seem to need a little more defogging.

There are many ways to increase the contrast in Elements. The contrast control is the one you should seldom if ever use. It moves the white and black points the same amount toward or away from each other and you seldom want to do that. Levels and curves are the most common way to increase your contrast. I often use selective color for that purpose.

Most people like to sharpen last. You don't want to have any sharpening artifacts enhanced during image editing, so it is best to shoot with minimum sharpening in the camera.

A problem with Elements compared to Photoshop is that you can't make your own actions. I have an action with PTLens, defogging, auto-contrast and a little sharpening that brings my images up to viewable. I use the originals for any post processing I want to do though. I guess if I had Elements I might shoot with everything normal and take the hit in dynamic range. You can pick up the full Paint Shop Pro XI on Ebay for less than $40 in the CD-only version. It isn't a hobbled program like Elements.

There isn't anything you can do for blown highlights, but this is my Photoshop effort with your pelican.


And the basketball shot.

[Reanimator]

when u say 3d do u mean like this, was just a 10 minute effort before i go out.....:-)

[slipe]

It would probably have been a tad longer than 10 minutes had you started with his original.

[RP33]

That is the bold that I am looking for. May be not changing the background but that is it. How would I do that with a photo of a person to make them stick out in a portrat setting?

[Reanimator]

it would be in the same way as the pelican but without replacing the backgound with white, its the drop shadow that gives it feeling of perspective.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"you have got to use software that allows layers, i use photoshop but some other software as the feature, but to do most editing u need the feature of layers to overlay images onto of each other.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"here is a link to how to make glamour pics pop.......its photoshop tutorial but if u search the net u will find for painthshop pro etc http://www.eyesontutorials.com/artic.../Glamour-Model

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"the out of frame 3d effect is shown here http://www.dphotojournal.com/photosh...out-of-border/

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"just about anything u want or need to do as a tutorial somewhere online, the wonderfull internet as let me learn all i know :-) there is also software that lets u do it easier, but it costs money and most people dont like to spend it.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"Gary