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Old Feb 3, 2009, 4:19 PM   #1
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I have recently found out about HDR photography but am a little confused about how to take the photos for it. I have a Canon Eos 400D and am trying to figure out how to get the camera on to all the right settings. Have heard about changing f-stops and using AEB but not completely sure what they are and how to change them or what mode/setting to use.

Can anyone explain what settings I should have the camera on and how to change them?

Edit: Also how are you able to take HDR photos of something that is moving so all the photos are the same?
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Old Feb 4, 2009, 1:01 AM   #2
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I can't give you specific advice for a Canon Eos 400D - I use a Nikon D300. In general, for HDR photography you should use aperture priority mode and set your camera to exposure bracketing. You may be able to specify both how much to bracket each exposure (eg. 1/3, 1/2, 2/3 stop, etc.) and how many exposures (typically 3, 5, etc.). Assuming your exposure compensation is set at zero and you've set it for three exposures with 1 stop bracketing, the camera will take three consecutive exposures while you hold the shutter down. One will be 1 stop underexposed, one at 0 compensation, and one will be 1 stop overexposed. You will then import that set of (3, 5, or more) exposures into an HDR program such as Dynamic-Photo HDR, Photomatix, etc. and create an HDR image.

In the case of moving objects, you can take a single "normally exposed" RAW image, then process it in Photoshop (or PS Elements 6 or newer) as three separate JPGs. Do one 1-stop underexposed, one with no exposure compensation, and one 1-stop overexposed. Then import the three JPG files into your HDR software. Here's one I did a few days ago. Since I didn't have a tripod with me and the clouds were moving, I took a single RAW image and processed it three ways, then converted it to HDR using Dynamic-Photo HDR.

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Old Feb 4, 2009, 1:03 AM   #3
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For HDR, it is best to use either fully manual settings, or Av mode with auto bracketing on. Set you camera to take a minimum of 3 exposures (5 is better) at 1/2 EV steps. (3 at 1 EV may work, but often not as well) In general, the only thing that should change is shutter speed. If you change aperture, the DOF changes, and the HDR software may have trouble with the out of focus areas being different.

HDR is mostly used for high contrast landscape shots, or still lifes. Some software, such as Photoimpact, which I use, allows you to create a camera profile, which you may then use with a single exposure, to create HDR from one shot, though noise can be a problem when doing it this way.

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Old Feb 4, 2009, 7:52 AM   #4
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Thanks for the help. Has made it a little clearer. Will have to go through the settings on my camera and try and find the right settings.
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Old Feb 4, 2009, 6:20 PM   #5
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Preferably using a tripod, take your shots using ONLY shutter speed changes equivalent to 2 fstops. So you will end up with 1 shot 4fstops underexposed, 1 shot 2 fstops underexposed, 1 'properly exposed', 1 shot 2 fstops overexposed, 1 shot 4 fstops overexposed. If there are moving objects in the scene you can 'fix' this by settings in your software. I use Photomatix Pro and highly recommend it. By the way the actual number of shots you should make will depend on the contrast difference between the brightest and least bright areas. The more contrast then the more shots must be made. If there is not much contrast then less shots need be taken. Also if there is little conrast you can go 1 fstop difference between shots instead of 2 as I have already stated.

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Old Feb 8, 2009, 12:24 AM   #6
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here's a hdr program you can use if you grow impatient ) use just a single photo for fun results


Has some other cool tools like smooth skin tool

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Old Feb 11, 2009, 9:19 PM   #7
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You can do HDR like processing of a single image using Photoshop.
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