High trigger voltages

[geriatric]

:|Hi

Having two large hammerhead flashguns from the old days, I was stuck with them due to their high trigger voltage. There are adaptors in circulation at the moment which to me are a bit pricy. So I decided to design and make my own. On submitting this news to a UK forum I was told that I had stolen somebodys patent, so I dropped oit of that forum. The only snag is,you cannot purchase hotshoe male and female parts. So the first couple I made used sync leads for my hammerheads. they worked with complete success. I had a couple of old flashguns and cameras, so I broke them down and retrieved the hotshoe parts. The basic circuit is, no matter what the flash trigger voltage is, the camera only sees 5 volts. Cost including case was about £6.

So, are you going to post the how-to info or not?

[geriatric]

The reason that I did not further the matter was that nobody seemed interested. All the posts that I joined in, seemed too end when I posted a reply.Why this should be I do not know. I posted shots of all the gizmo`s that I have made but there was no interest shown.

[KCan]

Kalypso wrote:

So, are you going to post the how-to info or not?

:G

[KCan]

geriatric wrote:

The reason that I did not further the matter was that nobody seemed interested.

geriatric, may be most ofposters here are not "electronically minded" that far:blah:, it's more simple to buy something already on the maket, so do not fell bad :-)

FYI, my version, still runing of course:G :

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=53

Dang KCan...wish I were an electrical engineer! I want something to fire an old Norman 202 power supply for 2 flash heads. I have the PC Sync to H-prong cord but don't want to fry my A1.

So far the commercial alternatives are a pre-made Paramount cord with a built in safe-sync ($70-something dollars), or a $30.00 Wein Slave eye. I had hoped somebody would know how todo an easy mod to my standard cord (I can't see it costing $70-whatever to do this)!

[KCan]

Hi Kalypso,
My quick suggestion is this circuit:
In fact, it's part of my MFI-2. This circuit will work for sure. The power come from2 AAA batteries, and the camera PC won"t see anything higher than 3 Volt, and will have to drain no more than 0.4 mA.
Principe: the camera PC (or hotshoe) polarize the transistor and activate the LED in the opto-coupler, then the LED activate optically the SCR inside the chip, that's all.
Of course, it depends also how you can manage with electronics , and what you have already in your junk box (if you have one), but anyways, the parts cost is very low.

[KCan]

Kalypso wrote:

So, are you going to post the how-to info or not?

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=53