|
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Geneva, SWITZERLAND
Posts: 681
|
![]()
Hey guys !
Can I achieve that very smoth water effect I see on fountains and lakes with a P&S ? ![]() Thanks...
__________________
Sony α dSLR-A580 Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 Sony DT 50mm f/1.8 SAM Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di USD XLD |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links |
|
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bangalore, India
Posts: 44
|
![]()
__________________
Pentax K-x | Canon S3 IS DA L 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL | DA L 55-300mm F4-5.8 ED | Raynox DCR-250 flickr My blog - http://www.ronakg.com |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Geneva, SWITZERLAND
Posts: 681
|
![]()
I have a max. shutter speed of 2 secs, but I can only use it with the aperture set at f/18 !
Does the very small aperture have any influence on the smothy effect ? ![]()
__________________
Sony α dSLR-A580 Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 Sony DT 50mm f/1.8 SAM Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di USD XLD |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bangalore, India
Posts: 44
|
![]() Quote:
I'm not really an expert here, so I'd wait for the experts to chime in. If you can provide more details like your camera and mode you are trying to use, we can help better. BTW, the shot above was captured @ f/8 and shutter speed of 1 sec.
__________________
Pentax K-x | Canon S3 IS DA L 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL | DA L 55-300mm F4-5.8 ED | Raynox DCR-250 flickr My blog - http://www.ronakg.com |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Geneva, SWITZERLAND
Posts: 681
|
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
Sony α dSLR-A580 Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4 Sony DT 50mm f/1.8 SAM Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di USD XLD |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Cheshire, UK
Posts: 854
|
![]()
One approach would be to take several shots and combine them, effectively giving you a longer exposure. Quick example: 8 shots of the water going down my sink combined. I used flash so each one was only 1/13th of a second so it's still got some sharp detail but if you did it with a few 1s exposures then you'd get a much smoother effect. There might be other approaches but you can do this easily anywhere with only the camera itself.
1 frame: 8 combined:
__________________
AutoHDR - Free HDR software for Windows at http://www.autohdr.co.uk on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=...36045126467361 My Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinsykes Panasonic DMC-FZ38, Sony α580 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Hay River Township, WI
Posts: 2,512
|
![]()
A two second exposure should do just fine: that is the time RonakG used. To get that long an exposure try shooting in the dim light near sunrise or sunset.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,522
|
![]()
All great advice - would also add - try on days of heavy overcast, use the lowest ISO possible, and try using a polarizing filter. Even if your camera has no way of attaching a filter, you can always hold one in front of the lens (being very careful not to push too hard and mess up the focus/zoom mechanism). Of course, with a 1-2 second exposure, you will need a tripod or other firm support.
For example, here are two views of Spruce Flats Falls, first one taken with my (old and long gone) Nikon P&S (E5400), other with a Pentax DSLR (the K-m): |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 473
|
![]()
You will have two obstacles to overcome with a point and shoot. One that has been addressed a couple of times is too much light for a long exposure. Many people use a neutral density filter to cut down light but you could also shoot in a heavily shaded area or at dusk as has been mentioned. Another problem with a p&s that is probably short on manual settings is that the water will show up with a gray cast instead of more of a pure white cast. You can especially see that this happened in mole's shots (though ironically it appears that his point and shoot did a better job of metering for the water! You can see the other results in the differences of the exposures when you look at the brightness of the foliage). The camera decided that the water was too bright and rendered it instead as a neutral 18% gray. Bryan Peterson teaches in his book Understanding Exposure that you can avoid this by metering off the green plants and then stepping down 2/3 of a stop. mole could do that with his k-m but I doubt that you could do that with your point and shoot so you might just have to settle for gray foam if you're talking about running water of that sort.
Or if your p&s does RAW by chance you could help a bit in post processing. Martin had a very good suggestion with the sort of HDR type combining of images as well. Oh and obviously you'll want to use a tripod or set it on a rock and take the shot with a delay on the shutter release. brad Last edited by DigMe; Jan 21, 2011 at 10:51 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Hay River Township, WI
Posts: 2,512
|
![]()
Folks have said all good stuff. Just keep in mind the basic point for getting smooth water is a slow shutter speed.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|