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Old Oct 20, 2004, 1:19 PM   #11
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MPW Peter wrote:
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@ wpmegee:
I only use the M (manual) mode, what 's the advantage of shutter-priority mode?
In shutter-priorty you choose the shutter speed and the camera automatically sets the aperture. Use it when you want to stop motion and don't care about depth of field. Aperture-priority mode is the opposite, you choose the aperture, and the camera sets the shutter speed.

The advantage is that you don't have to worry about over or under-exposing. On your camera, when the aperture number turns red while in shutter-priority mode, it means that either it can't stop down far enough to prevent overexposure (if it's red at 8.0) or that it can't open wide enough to prevent underexposure (if it's red at 2.8, 3.5, or 3.7) for the shutter speed you have selected.

@Skippy - the minimum aperture on his camera is F/8.
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 2:22 PM   #12
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I caught that and the difference he asked about ...after I laid down for some sleep. Sorry guys, I was tired as all get out and had taken a sleep aid. heh, I wasn't about to get back up and re-type what I'd said.
As for how does it pertain to analog vs. digital, it's the same, but film, I guess your refering to film?, has more latitude and is a bit more forgiving than digital all dependant on the ISO and type of film used. Still a bit groggy though. :?
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Old Oct 21, 2004, 2:06 AM   #13
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I sometimes get confused, cause manufacturers of digicams and analogs often use the same word for a slightly different function... Luckely I started with a digi. It must be harder to get used to it when you allready were used to an analog for 20 years... :?


Should I use different settings for the shutter when I use full zoom?








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Old Oct 21, 2004, 3:37 AM   #14
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No, there's no need to use different settings, or I should say MOST of the time. Let me put it as simple terms as I can, though I'm not talking down, just giving an analogy. Say you are near sighted, and things at a distance are fuzzy when your eyes are wide openand look tiny, now without squinting, you walk closer to your subject and things are clear visioned and much larger. The same thing occurs basically when you use a camera lens to zoom in, the only real difference is that unless you are using autofocus, you have to adjust the focus yourself with the lens, and your brain is the full time autofocus for your body.

The only difference between digital and film is what I said before, plus like you said, some terms are a little different. Aperture, shutter speeds, etc. are all used the same way by each type of camera. Although the results can be different from camera to camera, even from cameras of the same make.
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Old Oct 22, 2004, 9:06 AM   #15
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Thanks guys for sharing your knowledge!


[align=left]Skippy:
What makes it difficult sometimes, is that most publications about aperture refer to a range of f/stops that isn't compatible with my camera. I'm not really able to convert e.g. f/20 to a setting on my equipment... :?









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Old Oct 22, 2004, 2:38 PM   #16
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Yeah, I caught that part. What I mean is yours only goes to f8. Also a lot of cameras use 1/3,1/2, and 2/3 stops.What you could do though is to use ND filters to compensate. There's not much else I can say other than maybe try to find a used SLR or DSLR.
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Old Oct 26, 2004, 3:55 AM   #17
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That's a great tip Skippy!

I've also been thinking about a polarisation filter, does this do anything good for racing photo's?











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Old Nov 9, 2004, 2:57 AM   #18
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Hi - just caught this thread. I've done a lot of car-shooting this year, have a look at my website at http://mivec.co.uk

I'd say that 1/80th is way too slow. A very minimum of a 250th should be fine or even 350th sometimes. I nearly always shoot on time priority to get this.


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Old Nov 21, 2004, 2:14 PM   #19
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Hihorrgakx!

Thanks for sharing your great website!
Ill try 250th next time!



Regds,
Peter
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Old Nov 29, 2004, 10:42 PM   #20
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I tried using a Z1 for racing shots about 2-3 months but had some problems.
1. F stop only went to 8, didn't figure out a way around that which really sucked on sunny days.
2. The EVF 'blacks out' momentarily between shots (at least mine did) which made it extremely hard to take sequence shots while panning--you have to blindly guess where the car will be for the next frame.
3. Night time shooting, even in early evening, was near impossible with the pop-up flash and I didn't want to spend the money for an external flash.
4. High noise at ISO 400.
5. As I recall, it took a few seconds to get the camera to wake up from standby mode, which can be an eternity when you need to immediately get a pic of a spinning/flipping car.
I finally bit the bullet and jumped to a D70, much better.
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