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RD100 Apr 30, 2004 8:59 PM

PDR-5300 ... Firmware v1.10 fixes yellowish pictures
In Steve's Digicam Review of the PDR-5300, Steve mentions he had problems with a Yellowish cast in several of his photos:

We had mixed results from our outdoor test shots. While the images were sharp and well-exposed, we found that in bright direct sun the PDR-5300 color balance was inconsistent, sometimes producing a distinct yellowish cast; this did not occur in overcast conditions. We also experienced a yellowish cast using fill-flash outdoors. The LCD viewfinder was very usable even in the bright Florida sun; its brightness is adjustable, and it has an anti-reflective coating.

We also had mixed results with our indoor shots. We noticed a yellowish cast in our flash portraits similar to what we experienced outdoors. Because of the limited flash range and 35mm maximum wide-angle, your shooting will
be limited to portraits of individuals and small groups, or small rooms.

I had the exact same problem with mine until this past week, when I upgraded my PDR-5300's firmware from V1.05 to V1.10.

Now I no longer have the Yellowish cast. V1.10 apparently fixed the problem.

You can download the firmware upgrade HERE .

Ignore the website's mistake on the description about seeing V1.05 after you apply the upgrade. It should have read "you will see V1.10". That is what my camera now displays. Previously my camera showed v1.05.

Now I am EXTREMELY HAPPY with my PDR-5300. The quality of the photos is very good.

One other thing ... I also noticed that if I l continue charging the battery for a few hours after the charge light on the camera goes off, I seem to get an even longer usage out of the battery. My guess is the battery isn't really fully charged when the light goes off.

RD100 May 16, 2004 9:52 AM


The firmware 1.10upgrade in my PDR-5300helped improve the yellowish cast issue most of the time, but it did not correctthe problementirely.

But I did finallyfigure out what causes the yellowish castproblem, and a methodto get around it.

At first I thought the yellowish cast was a random issue which occured during certain types of outdoor daytime photos. Iwasn't surewhen and where it would occur.

Then after taking multiplepictures of a distant city skyline from across a bay during mostly sunny mid-afternoon, and having the yellowish cast occur in every single photo, I determinedthe yellowish castwas definitely not a random issue.

The yellowish cast apparently is related to the waythe sunlight (or any light) is lighting the subject. In the outdoors, if the subject has deep greens (trees)and sandy colors (like on a beach), and the sky around the subjectislit with ahazzy sunshine, the yellowish problem generally occurs.

So to get around the yellowish problem, I simply aim the cameraat a moderately lit greyish surface (likethe street or sidewalk), and I thenpress the camera button halfwayuntil Ihear the focus beep. Then while the button is still pressed halfway, I re-aim the camera at the subject intended, and snap the photo.

I tried this at the same spot where I took the city skyline photos mentioned above, and it worked 100% of the time.All of the pictures had normal colors. No yellowish casts.

And justto be certain , I took one photo where I focuseddirectly the city skyline, and sure enough the photo had a deep yellowish cast.

Sothe yellowish cast issue can be resolved by just focusing on a greyish sidewalk firstbefore aiming at the true subject.

steve May 16, 2004 5:41 PM

That is a sign that the camera's white balance system is NOT working properly. I had hoped they could fix it in firmware but it sounds like they only got part of the problem solved. Maybe they'll get it all fixed some day but things like that should be working right in the very first shipping version of the camera.


lgmayka Aug 29, 2004 11:08 PM

I just purchased a refurbished Gateway DC-T50 today, for $150 from the TigerDirect Outlet store. My camera has firmware version 0.33, presumably an improvement over the 0.21 mentioned earlier in this thread. (Or perhaps I saw that somewhere else?) Would it be reasonable and safe to load Toshiba's 1.10 firmware (for the PDR-5300) into this camera, or should I leave well enough alone?

Redman Aug 30, 2004 12:58 PM

how difficult was it to upgrade the firmware? any risks?

lgmayka Aug 30, 2004 2:31 PM

RD100 is the one who actually upgraded his PDR-5300's firmware. Toshiba's instructions make it sound pretty straightforward. The real questions are: (a) Is it safe to use Toshiba's firmware in a Gateway DC-T50? and (b) Is Toshiba's 1.10 firmware really any better than Gateway's 0.33 firmware?

70PHR3 Sep 4, 2004 11:59 PM

Igmayka, I bought the same camera but for some reason the modes are duplicated. Such as PC and Set-up do the same thing. Movie mode and Night mode are also the same and so on. Does anybody know of a way to fix this?

RD100 Sep 16, 2004 2:45 AM

As I recall, upgrading the firmware was a little tricky, because you had to hold down a buttonthe entire timethe software upgrade was loading. And if my finger accidentally slipped, then it would have to be sent to Toshiba repair. But luckily I was successful.

I don't know if the firmware in the Toshibawould work in theGateway? I know the two cameras appear to be identical. But that is a chance I wouldn't take without being certain.

As for my yellowish-cast problem ... I still have it in a fair amount of pictures. I use Adobe Photopshop to correct the problem after the fact. Its a simple matter of adding more blueusing the Color Balance option. And I also increase the brightness and contrast. The end results are usually very good. The colors end up looking normal and very rich. After doing this correction a few times, it becomes an easy process.

After owningmy camerafor8 months, I think the Toshiba PDR-5300 has its merits because it is a well built compact camera, and comes lots of features for the money. I spent $200. I like that it included the AC power adapter. The pictures vary ... some good ... some not so good. But Photoshop can usually fix most issues, except for badly lit indoor photos. The movie camerafeature is nice, and I use it often. But it only captures 30 seconds of video at a time. But it does come in handy at some events.

I wanted a spare battery, and the cheapestcompatible batteryI found was the Kodak EasyShareKLIC-5000 1050mAH Li-ion 3.7v. It cost $20 at Best Buy. Some places charge up to $50for compatible batteries. And on some websites, you can buy them for around $10 - $15.

So for picture quality alone, I wouldn't recommend this camera. But for features, quality and price ... it's a pretty decent buy for a 5 megapixel camera. However, I rarely take photos larger than 1 megapixel ... so I have now alsolearned that the extra megapixels aren't really necessary, at least for my use. I don't printmy photos. I just view them on my PC. And 1 megapixel photos completelyfill my 17"screen and look great.

Digitaldomain Apr 12, 2005 10:56 AM

RD100 wrote:

As I recall, upgrading the firmware was a little tricky, because you had to hold down a buttonthe entire timethe software upgrade was loading. And if my finger accidentally slipped, then it would have to be sent to Toshiba repair. But luckily I was successful.

I don't know if the firmware in the Toshibawould work in theGateway? I know the two cameras appear to be identical. But that is a chance I wouldn't take without being certain.

I recently tried to upgrade the DC-T50 from .33 firmware to the 1.10A toshiba firmware without much luck. The camera seems to skip the file name and just boot up into the menus. I have a couple questions about the firmware process since I am not sure I have done this correctly.

* When you upgraded your firmware, did you have the power adapter plugged in or not? Wondering if its skipping the firmware update because of this.

* When you held down the "UP" menu button, and then pressed the power button, did you keep the power button pressed down the entire time or just the "up" button?

* What mode did you have the camera in when you did the firmware upgrade? PC, Setup, Auto, etc? I have tried a couple modes without much luck.

* Does anyone know what the file name for .33 firmware was from gateway? I am wondering if the GW firmware has been programmed to ignore firmware from other vendors such as toshiba. (Even though toshiba build the camera.)

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.


Greensnow in Minnesota.:lol:

Antitorgo Jun 9, 2005 1:00 AM

Holy cow, I feel like I have a new camera! It was a weird wild trip to actually get the T-50 firmware and update it. If you don't really care about my story, skip down a bit.

I figured out how to upgrade my T-50 to version .37 (from .25). Since this is the only English language site that seems to have any info on it, I figured I'd post my experiences. First off, the file has to be named correctly, and while renaming the PDR-5300 firmware to the correct filename did allow me to upgrade to that firmware, the CCD is different between the cameras (Sony vs. Sharp). So I take the PDR_5300.bin firmware and rename it. Put the SD card into my camera and go through the up-power procedure and I almost freaked out when I saw the firmware upgrade procedure kick-off. So, after upgrading to the PDR-5300's 1.10 firmware, the camera only took pure white pictures (It was at this point I almost panicked). Turns out the CCDs are different between the PDR-5300 and the T-50

Anyway, from some German sites on the Aldi Traveller 5300 (Same camera), I was able to Google translate them to make some sense and figure out the issues:

a) The PDR-5300 uses a Sony CCD
b) The T-50 uses a Sharp CCD

For the T-50, the filename has to be dcj01x.bin. And luckily enough, some Russian site had the firmware. And it was the .37 version. Here's the link:

Anyway, just copy that to the root your SD card, and press and hold the up button while pressing power. I'd recommend having the camera plugged in, just in case. It takes maybe 30-60 seconds to update. Just let it run until everything says 100%.

I've noticed that the camera seems a hell of a lot faster in the shutter times and write to SD card times. Also, I noticed that it goes down to ISO50 (Or did it before and I didn't notice it? The PDR-5300 1.10 version only goes down to ISO100).

Before, it the response times were almost unbearable, now, I might actually use this camera!:cool:

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