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Old Jun 4, 2005, 5:19 AM   #11
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thanks for the info...after hearing what you have said about it and other reviews I've read online the markins M10 seems to be the way to go - do you think I should go for the new m10 with QR or buy it without and get another QR - someone recommends a RRS B2 pro lever clamp?

When you say it supports the arca swiss system what do you mean is it the type of plates that are used? and would the head go straight onto my uniloc 1220, i think it has a 1/4 and a 1/2" thread - its all new to me...
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Old Jun 4, 2005, 10:39 AM   #12
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now is the issue:

my qoutes will be in US $

M10 w/markins QR= $339US

M10 w/o QR (stud only)= $309US

RRS LR II lever lock= $120

total together w/o shipping= $429

RRS BH-55 w/LR II= $455

if light weight is the highest priority go the markins route with your choice of clamp. if you want the best (at a 50% increase in weight though) the BH55 is the current king. now i'm not saying the markins is a slouch here but the overall action and feel of the RRS head is better. and the price structure with the LR clamp puts you in striking distance of the RRS head/clamp. if unsure and have a strict monitary policy/budget go with the M10 and the markins clamp (make sure they are sending you the 2005 model as there have been a few improvements made.

either way you go you will not have any real problems. just say you don't like the head you have after a few months and it is prime condition because you took care of it. you go to a photo site that has buy/sell and offer it up for 10-15% off of what you got it for (of course thats your choice). the head should be sold within probable 8hrs or less (the quality you bought will sell it on its own). i think of the loss as rental fees and then move on to the next one.

if you're doing the markins/RRS marriage route let me know and i will give you step by step instructions on how to setup the stud and clamp so it works perfectly. this is because it is almost impossible to unjoin them after 48hrs.


on thestud on your tripod. it should be a 3/8" and will screw directly into the base of the head. if itsthe occasional oddball one that has a 1/4" stud an adapter can be gotten at a good camera store that will screw into the heads 3/8 threaded to turn it into a 1/4 cost there shoud be less the $5US. as some actually have flipover studs it may have both. gitzo, feisol,manfrotto, do that. read the manual that came with the legs. i'm real sure the uniloc has the 3/8on it.





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Old Jun 4, 2005, 10:53 AM   #13
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indeed...decisions, i hate them...

what practicle difference is there between the markins that comes w QR and getting it w/o and the RRS QR as I'm going to be stretching my budget on getting the head alone + how much are plates going to cost as I'll need one for my sigma 180 macro and maybe one for my 10D (or could i get away with one as at the moment i mostly use the sigma anyway)?
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Old Jun 4, 2005, 11:33 AM   #14
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the practical aspects are as follows using a RRS clamp

position 1- open position the lever is flipped 180 deg. the clamp throat is wide open easy in easy out.

position 2- partial open lever at 90 deg to either full open or full closed. allows the camera lens plate assy to slide in the clamp. with the wimberly or newer RRS plates there are removable stops at each end of the clamp that fit the RRS stop points in the clamp thus preventing a complete and catastophic camera lens slideout. OUCH!!!

http://www.pbase.com/crusader/image/44294163/original

http://www.pbase.com/crusader/image/44294166

note the little silver stop in the clamp/plate area. thats whats preventing my 1Ds2 and 70-200 2.8 IS from doing the ground bounce.

i believe that at this time only wimberly and RRS use this. wimberly was the designer.

position 3- locked and tucked under so not easy to accidently flip open. exerts 50 lbs of force on the plate. it ain't moving.

http://www.pbase.com/crusader/image/39504237/medium

markins has a different setup you can see on the site that i myself do not find as practical as above because of the need to unscrew theclamp which is less feedback in knowing the actual position of the clamp. lacking in the visual cue.

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Old Jun 5, 2005, 2:46 PM   #15
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umhh...I like the sound of that but I see Nikonians don't stock really right stuff and being in the UK I have the evil VAT and import duties + shipping charges which will bump the price up again and by then it would be very expensive! do u know of any outlets in the uk or EU that stock RRS?

RRS won't put false value on the customs documents...

There is a RSS BH55 on ebay but thats going to be $500 + w shipping + import etc so no good either & is used...

:?:
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Old Jun 5, 2005, 5:30 PM   #16
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honestly i do feel your pain. so you final option is to go for the whole M10 kit with the Markins clamp (no real loss in the long run). you will be satisfied with it. just make sure that your getting the 2005 model. see if the have the wine colored one available. i'm real tired of black.
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Old Jun 6, 2005, 5:39 AM   #17
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i guess thats the best option for me at the moment...

next thing is what plate to get - as I'll get from Nikonians they don't stock RRS and I read somewhere that the markins plates aren't so good? so they sell Kirk - as this is costing me a packet already can u recommend a universal plate that I will be able to use with my sigma tripod collar and my 10D - I'm impressed w/ your L plate so eventually I want to get one of those - but not just yet!

also it looks like the new markins clamp now has the little silver stopping stud u told me about on your RRS?

also should I go for the L or R head as I'm right handed?

cheers
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Old Jun 6, 2005, 10:18 AM   #18
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right hand.... right hand grip on cameras.....left hand adjust on the ball. all in all i use both hands. when i got mine there was no option so i'm used to working it from both digits.

the stud on the markins is on the clamp and is spring loaded. it fits in the routed portion of the plates as the all have them to lighten them up. its a good basic system but you just havve to be aware of how many turns before the clamp comes out and goes boom vs just loosening fo adjustment.

on the plates and the term universal: due to the basic premise of capturing the camera or lens so as to not rotate with the plate on. ther are stratigically placed stops, lips and or curves custom to the camera itself. the lens is a little more tolerant of length so not so much an issue. you will end up with 2 plates at minimum. as the stomach turns. the wimberly plates are available in the UK this may be a more palletable option for you as they do have "universal" plates. and the P5 may be able to suffice in that swap it back and forth option.

www.tripodhead.com

the 1 and only UK dealer is:

Bob Ribgy Photographics
Store Street Bollington
Macclesfield, Cheshire
England SK10 5PN
+44 (0)1625-5755-91
+44 (0) 1625-574954 Fax
www.bobrigby.com
[email protected]




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Old Jun 6, 2005, 3:16 PM   #19
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thx for the info...

would I get away with a custom plate for the lens - to use on the 10D on if needed until I can afford to get an L plate? - also I have a battery grip for the 10d so would u pay the extra for the bigger L clamp? Also I need to photograph my artwork for my new website and most are portrait format so what would u recommend for that?

I thought as I was going to buy the head at nikonians I thought I may as well get a kirk plate as well to save on 2 sets of postage or would u say wimberly are that much better?

cheers
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Old Jun 7, 2005, 8:54 AM   #20
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if your going to try to use on both camera body and lens you need to find a plate that is flat. that is w/o any lips or protrusions. try emailing both kirk and wimberly for suggestions on that to see what the suggest.

kirk/wimberly- both are excellent quality and either way you won't go wrong

if you use the battery grip all the time thats way to go. but thats just another choice you need to make. on a 1D series i had no choice.


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