[Recovered Thread: 111784]

[JRidge2778]

Yeah but problem with the DSLRs or even film SLRs is that they are bulky and require 2 hands to operate. I'm limited physicaly and can't grip or operate a lens with my left hand maybe not even balance it. Thats is why I'm looking at the H5 and S3 IS all controls on the H5 and the most common on controls on the S3 are on the right side of the camera and they aredesigned to be used with 1 hand.

[Sintares]

The H5 is very cluttered and is known to be poor ergonomically, ie there is little space for the thumb on the right hand to rest without accidentiallytriggering a button or two.

You might be able to use the H2 or H5 one handed but most people use it with the left hand supporting the camera around/under the lens, which is another good reason to put the adapter tube on full time.

If you are going to use the camera one handed, take plenty of extra shots to make up for all the blurred ones due to excessive camera shake.

[JRidge2778]

Sintares wrote:

If you are going to use the camera one handed, take plenty of extra shots to make up for all the blurred ones due to excessive camera shake.

Doesn't the Super SteadyShot optical image stabilization help reduce that blur?

Since your course clearly specs for a 35mm SLR, why are you wasting time worrying about a $300-$400 digital camera at all? You will need a DSLR to meet the specs (unless you go with the R1....& it's not $300-$400 either).

[JRidge2778]

Well there are two reasons, 1. DSLRs being 700+ (I'd go for Canon Rebel XTi) are a little out of my price range. and 2. I can't hold/grip many things with my left hand so I could adjust the lens and hold the camera at the same time. So if I could do it all one handed like with the Canon S3 IS or Sony H5. which 95%-100% of the controls are on one side I handle those two cameras. I'm trying to figure which comes closer to what I need and which is the better all round camera.

[Sintares]

JRidge2778 wrote:

Doesn't the Super SteadyShot optical image stabilization help reduce that blur?

Yes it does, however it can't work miracles.

Remember the old rule to avoid camera shake was a minimum shutter speed of 1/focal length, ie at full tele (430mm) you would have needed 1/430s or faster.

With say 2 or 3 stops of image stabilisation you could probable get away with 1/100s or even 1/50s !

However the 1/focal length rule always assumed standard grip and posture ie two hands on the camera and camera held securely with the eye against the viewfinder.

I supposethough that your photography course will not really require or need long reachin a lens, since its not stated as a requirement and many of the other beginners on the course will just have a basic kit lens with their new dslrs and they seldom reach more than 82.5mm (equiv)

And you can always attach a cheap light monopod to the camera as an aid to stability, with the advantage in you can carry the camera with it permanently attached as you walk around.

[JRidge2778]

gonna try and scrap enough to get a canon rebel xti but if not the S3 IS or H5 are probley the next best thing

[JRidge2778]

Hell lets add more confusion to the mix put the S3 IS and H5 aside for a sec. Has anyone compared the Canon Rebel XTi, Nikon D40, Pentax K100D side by side? if I can aford the S3 IS and H5 maybe I can scrap up enough for these $600-700 monsters. the K1100D has no stablization so thats out.

JRidge2778 wrote:

Hell lets add more confusion to the mix put the S3 IS and H5 aside for a sec. Has anyone compared the Canon Rebel XTi, Nikon D40, Pentax K100D side by side? if I can aford the S3 IS and H5 maybe I can scrap up enough for these $600-700 monsters. the K1100D has no stablization so thats out.

Only the Pentax has IS...the others make your buy expensive IS lenses. If it were me, I'd get a used film camera like a Nikon FA & a 50mm/f1.8 lens for $200-$300 off ebay to use for the course. Then you can build your lens collection while you save up for a D80......