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#11 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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JohnG wrote:
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First, thank you much for all the help. Yes, the primary purpose of the camera is to takesoccer photos and while most games are during the day, some of them will be at night and I will have to be there, on the field, trying to get some good shots. However, I do not do this for a living (which means that it does not have to be perfect or else...), it is more like a hobby I haveandI publish the pics on the Club'swebsite. I read on one of these photo's forum that comparing the FZ30 against the fuji s9000 and the Canon S3i, photos at higher ISOs would be much better by the Fuji. On the other hand the Canon is suposed to be umbeatable in color quality, while the FZ30 OIS is a must for shooting sports. Perhaps I should haveformulated my question diferently and asked about these 3 choices, which one would be best for me, given my $$$ limitations... Cheers, Tina |
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#12 |
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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TinaSport wrote:
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#14 | |
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TinaSport wrote:
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That asside -none of these cameras has acceptable high ISO performance. The Fuji F30 and Fuji s6000 are the only cameras with halfway decentISO 1600 performance. The f30 is too short for soccer use. The s6000 is still a bit short but it does have the best ISO 1600 performance of any superzoom on the market. But it is not image stabalized. The Canon has more reach and is stabalized so it's a better choice for day-time soccer. So the question is: Do you want to maximize your daytime soccer shots or do you want slightly less quality daytime shots with the hopes of getting some passable shots of players standing around at night? |
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2006
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Hi Tina,
The Fuji S6000fd's zoom is 300mm, which is pretty short compared to the range of the Sony H2/H5 or the Canon S3IS. Remember to measure zoom by the range (in the S6000fd's case its 300mm) and not the magnification factor - 10.7x, 12x, whatever. On a side note, it seems that the S6000fd has a bit better low-ISO performance than the S9100. To me, having a wider angle (28mm vs 36mm) was more important than the greater zoom. Here is a quick photo I just took. The cap is about 70ft away from me. I leaned against the deck rail, extened the zoom all the way, and snapped. Other than resizing the pic, no cropping or editing was done. Hope this helps, Chris |
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#16 | ||
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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JohnG wrote:
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http://www.8p.com.br/tinasport/flog/a21908/#a21908 Cheers, Tina |
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#17 |
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Tina,
I took a quick look. The biggest area I can see where you can improve is you need to shoot tighter to the action. This means leave your camera at full zoom unless the players won't fit in the frame anymore. You've got a great shot of a header in there. You need to have more shots that tightly framed. It also means recognizing the limitations of your gear. You've got a 430mm equivelent lens on that camera but that is still only good for about 40 meters. When you are done editing, you want the action to fill the frame (on occasional shots, a wide angle works to show how large the crowd is but for 90% of your shots you want to be tight): Second - try to get faces in the shot. There are rare great action shots with no faces, but not many. It is faces and peak actionthat make great sports shots. And, to get good detail in faces you need to shoot tight. and not try to exceed the range of the lens in use. So, work on getting faces - if you can't see facial detail, there's a good chance the shot isn't that good (another reason the header in your gallery is a good shot). Most of your shots are from too far away or not zoomed in tight enough to show enough detail. If your player's back is to you it's probably not going to be very interesting. I have only a slightly longer focal length with my main lens, but I work to fill the frame and show faces. That makes a huge difference: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Timing - gain an understanding of the shutter lag your camera has and time your shots better so you get peak action. In many of your shots there isn't anything very interesting going on. It might be more interesting if you could see the faces, but without the faces, most of the action just isn't peak. Those are the biggest things you can do to improve the quality of your shots - and they apply to any camera you use. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2006
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John, not only are those awesome photos, but the commentary was great, too. Thanks!
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#19 | |
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flippedgazelle wrote:
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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JohnG wrote:
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Great shots (someday I will get there...:?), and awsome comments. I have printed them and will keepin my camera bag to read them again and again! Cheers Tina |
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