[Recovered Thread: 82971]

[JimC]

Idan wrote:

Thanks for the reply as far as I read they all performs very good - so it is not much an issue 200 more or less.

A brand new 50mm f/1.8 from Canon or Nikon can be found for under $100.00

That was the case for the KM 50mm f/1.7, too until recently (most vendors in the U.S. are sold out of them now). But, you can still find them on the used market here.

I paid $49 for my Minolta 50mm f/1.7 (including a working Maxxum 7000 35mm SLR and a Minolta flash). ;-)

[Idan]

JimC wrote:

A brand new 50mm f/1.8 from Canon or Nikon can be found for under $100.00

For which photos the 50mm prime is good for ? Portrait, Landscapes, Street etc.
Does it really performs better then the KIT lens on 50mm ?

[JimC]

Idan wrote:

I've heard about dust problem on the sensor, did you encountered any dust on your DSLR and if so after how much time since you bought your camera and how do you clean it ?

You may find dust on a brand new camera's sensor. It happens. But, most of the time, it's not going to be visible unless it's located where you'll have brighter portions of an image, shooting at smaller apertures (for example, a bright sky). At larger apertures with most subjects, it's usually too out of focus to notice.

If you're in a dusty environment, you'll have a greater chance of getting some on the sensor. Ditto if you change lenses more often (and it's a good idea to keep the camera pointed down when swapping lenses).

But, I've known people that have used a DSLR for a long time, making lots of lens swaps, that say they've never had a dust problem. There is no hard and fast rule for how often (or even if) you may encounter a dust issue.

You can get a simple blower bulb to blow most dust from a sensor, without the need to ever touch it (a puff of air from a hand squeezed bulb is used to blow if off, while holding the camera upside down with the mirror locked up).

There are more sophisiticated techniques for "stubborn" dust particles. Search for "Copper Hill" for one example or "Visible Dust" for another.

You can buy sensor swabs designed for speciific sensor types, too (B&H sells 'em) and use Eclipse fluid with them (similar to the copper hill method which uses a spatula with pec pads).

But, make sure to read the manufacturer's instructions for warranty purposes, as some manufacturers recommend air only for dust removal (and I'm don't mean compressed air, as you could damage a camera with too much force).

[JimC]

Idan wrote:

For which photos the 50mm prime is good for ? Portrait, Landscapes, Street etc.
Does it really performs better then the KIT lens on 50mm ?

Yes, a 50mm prime is going to be sharp compared to a zoom lens (even compared to very expensive zoom lenses), despite it's low cost. When you add the ability to go from one focal length to another (a zoom lens), you make compromises in quality, requiring a more sophisticated design. Most primes are also also brighter than zoom lenses you'll find in equivalent focal lengths.

That's one reason why you won't find a "bad" 50mm prime from a major camera manufacturer. It's easier to make a high quality prime compared to a zoom.

But, it's only a single focal length. If you need more of a scene in the image, you back up more (and you can only back up so far, which is one reason why you have a large variety of lenses in different focal lengths).

If you want to frame tighter (so your subject occupies a greater percentage of the frame), you move forward towards your subject.

In other words, you use your feet for zoom to get the desired framing (within the limitations of the space you're shooting in). That's a drawback of a prime compared to a zoom.

[Idan]

JimC wrote:

If you need more of a scene in the image, you back up more (and you can only back up so far).

If you want to frame tighter (so your subject occupies a greater percentage of the frame), you move forward towards your subject.

But the angle for each focal length is different, so is it possible to get an exact photo from a 50mm lens like in a 18-55mm kit lens on 18mm by just moving backwards ??


[align=center]Let us know and help others to decide. VOTE NOW ![/align]

[JimC]

Idan wrote:

But the angle for each focal length is different, so is it possible to get an exact photo from a 50mm lens like in a 18-55mm kit lens on 18mm by just moving backwards ??

Actually, no.

It's more complex than that. My example was oversimplified.

Even though you may be able to get the same framing by backing up far enough, depending on what you're shooting, you'll have a different perspective.

That's another consideration when buying lenses.

If you are shooting at a closer distance to your subject, it can distort features. For example, a nose may be out of proportion to the face and ears, appearing larger than it should. If you shoot from further way, the background will appear to be more compressed.

Perspective is the relative size and depth of subjects within your photo. It impacts how far the foreground and the background (and portions in between) appear to be separated from each other.

That's a more advanced part of learning photography (perspective), that you can use to your advantage by changing your distance to subject and using different focal lengths for the desired effect, even if you want your subject to occupy the same percentage of the frame.

[VictorEM83]

I voted I dont know. I rather spend money on optics until my 300D dies. I mean no offence to people on here but if you could chouse to buy each new body or a new lens every year why would you buy a new body? Lenses make or break the camera. This lady in the photo lab where i work has a 300D, 10D, and 20D. Now granted I love the 20D but she owes like $1000 on here 20D becuase she wanted a faster focusing camera. On the flipside my 70-200 F2.8L with 1.4x teleconverter kills here 70-300 lens in focusing and quality even with the better body.

[Idan]

So what is your suggestion for a prime lens (which focal length) for a starter photographer that shoot portraits and street and indoor photos ?

Take into consideration that one needs a good Bokeh effect with his lens.

[JimC]

Like I said to begin with, I'd suggest you pick up a 50mm f/1.8 (Canon or Nikon) or 50mm f/1.7 (KM), no matter which camera you choose (because they're bright, sharp and inexpensive).

I'd also suggest getting the kit lens with the camera you choose, too. They're inexpensive, small, light and start out relatively wide for a lens in their price range, offering more flexibility than you'll have with any single prime.

Then, go out and take lots of photos to see where you're running into limitations (focal lengths, brightness, optical quality, etc.).

You can't figure out what's going to be best for the type of shooting you do, if you're not using a camera yet. That will come with experience. ;-)

Nobody else can tell you either, because they're not you. Different users will have different tastes and needs, shooting different subjects, in different conditions, using the images for different purposes, at different print and viewing sizes.

You're over analyzing. ;-)

Did you go down to a store yet and actually try out some of the cameras, look at some of the lenses to see differences between them, etc.? That would be a good next step.

[Idan]

VictorEM83 wrote:

I mean no offence to people on here but if you could chouse to buy each new body or a new lens every year why would you buy a new body? Lenses make or break the camera.

New bodies come with new technologies :idea: (sensor, color rendition algorithm, special hardware for dust removal and anti-shake etc.) all that means that body is the box that carries the new technology and manipulation code inside it.

so thats why people are waiting for new releases, some wants more resolution for bigger prints, some wants new innovative inventions that will make handling and shooting experience much easier and comfortable. Don't forget thesize of the back LCD and user-friendly menus that are part of our photographic pleasure, battery, High USB transfers, Optional battery grip, more ISO performance, built quality and weight, ergonomics.

All of those are built in the body only, NOT in the lens ! (ok,the Image-stabilation can be built inside the lens)


A tool that will be a pleasure to use, easy as that. Is it not important factor to you ??