|
View Poll Results: My top picks are: | |||
Olympus E-330 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
3 | 4.55% |
Olympus E-500 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
9 | 13.64% |
Nikon D50 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
15 | 22.73% |
Nikon D70s |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
3 | 4.55% |
Canon Rebel XT |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
9 | 13.64% |
Canon 20D |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
11 | 16.67% |
Pentax *ist DL2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
5 | 7.58% |
Waiting for Panasonic's DSLR |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
2 | 3.03% |
Waiting for new announcments this month |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
6 | 9.09% |
Haven't decided yet !? |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
3 | 4.55% |
Voters: 66. You may not vote on this poll |
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#51 | |
Administrator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
|
![]()
Idan wrote:
Quote:
That was the case for the KM 50mm f/1.7, too until recently (most vendors in the U.S. are sold out of them now). But, you can still find them on the used market here. I paid $49 for my Minolta 50mm f/1.7 (including a working Maxxum 7000 35mm SLR and a Minolta flash). ;-) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#52 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 267
|
![]()
JimC wrote:
Quote:
Does it really performs better then the KIT lens on 50mm ? |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#53 | |
Administrator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
|
![]()
Idan wrote:
Quote:
If you're in a dusty environment, you'll have a greater chance of getting some on the sensor. Ditto if you change lenses more often (and it's a good idea to keep the camera pointed down when swapping lenses). But, I've known people that have used a DSLR for a long time, making lots of lens swaps, that say they've never had a dust problem. There is no hard and fast rule for how often (or even if) you may encounter a dust issue. You can get a simple blower bulb to blow most dust from a sensor, without the need to ever touch it (a puff of air from a hand squeezed bulb is used to blow if off, while holding the camera upside down with the mirror locked up). There are more sophisiticated techniques for "stubborn" dust particles. Search for "Copper Hill" for one example or "Visible Dust" for another. You can buy sensor swabs designed for speciific sensor types, too (B&H sells 'em) and use Eclipse fluid with them (similar to the copper hill method which uses a spatula with pec pads). But, make sure to read the manufacturer's instructions for warranty purposes, as some manufacturers recommend air only for dust removal (and I'm don't mean compressed air, as you could damage a camera with too much force). |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#54 | |
Administrator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
|
![]()
Idan wrote:
Quote:
That's one reason why you won't find a "bad" 50mm prime from a major camera manufacturer. It's easier to make a high quality prime compared to a zoom. But, it's only a single focal length. If you need more of a scene in the image, you back up more (and you can only back up so far, which is one reason why you have a large variety of lenses in different focal lengths). If you want to frame tighter (so your subject occupies a greater percentage of the frame), you move forward towards your subject. In other words, you use your feet for zoom to get the desired framing (within the limitations of the space you're shooting in). That's a drawback of a prime compared to a zoom. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#55 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 267
|
![]()
JimC wrote:
Quote:
[align=center]Let us know and help others to decide. VOTE NOW ![/align] |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#56 | |
Administrator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
|
![]()
Idan wrote:
Quote:
It's more complex than that. My example was oversimplified. Even though you may be able to get the same framing by backing up far enough, depending on what you're shooting, you'll have a different perspective. That's another consideration when buying lenses. If you are shooting at a closer distance to your subject, it can distort features. For example, a nose may be out of proportion to the face and ears, appearing larger than it should. If you shoot from further way, the background will appear to be more compressed. Perspective is the relative size and depth of subjects within your photo. It impacts how far the foreground and the background (and portions in between) appear to be separated from each other. That's a more advanced part of learning photography (perspective), that you can use to your advantage by changing your distance to subject and using different focal lengths for the desired effect, even if you want your subject to occupy the same percentage of the frame. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#57 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 156
|
![]()
I voted I dont know. I rather spend money on optics until my 300D dies. I mean no offence to people on here but if you could chouse to buy each new body or a new lens every year why would you buy a new body? Lenses make or break the camera. This lady in the photo lab where i work has a 300D, 10D, and 20D. Now granted I love the 20D but she owes like $1000 on here 20D becuase she wanted a faster focusing camera. On the flipside my 70-200 F2.8L with 1.4x teleconverter kills here 70-300 lens in focusing and quality even with the better body.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#58 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 267
|
![]()
So what is your suggestion for a prime lens (which focal length) for a starter photographer that shoot portraits and street and indoor photos ?
Take into consideration that one needs a good Bokeh effect with his lens. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#59 |
Administrator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
|
![]()
Like I said to begin with, I'd suggest you pick up a 50mm f/1.8 (Canon or Nikon) or 50mm f/1.7 (KM), no matter which camera you choose (because they're bright, sharp and inexpensive).
I'd also suggest getting the kit lens with the camera you choose, too. They're inexpensive, small, light and start out relatively wide for a lens in their price range, offering more flexibility than you'll have with any single prime. Then, go out and take lots of photos to see where you're running into limitations (focal lengths, brightness, optical quality, etc.). You can't figure out what's going to be best for the type of shooting you do, if you're not using a camera yet. That will come with experience. ;-) Nobody else can tell you either, because they're not you. Different users will have different tastes and needs, shooting different subjects, in different conditions, using the images for different purposes, at different print and viewing sizes. You're over analyzing. ;-) Did you go down to a store yet and actually try out some of the cameras, look at some of the lenses to see differences between them, etc.? That would be a good next step. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#60 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 267
|
![]()
VictorEM83 wrote:
Quote:
New bodies come with new technologies :idea: (sensor, color rendition algorithm, special hardware for dust removal and anti-shake etc.) all that means that body is the box that carries the new technology and manipulation code inside it. so thats why people are waiting for new releases, some wants more resolution for bigger prints, some wants new innovative inventions that will make handling and shooting experience much easier and comfortable. Don't forget thesize of the back LCD and user-friendly menus that are part of our photographic pleasure, battery, High USB transfers, Optional battery grip, more ISO performance, built quality and weight, ergonomics. All of those are built in the body only, NOT in the lens ! (ok,the Image-stabilation can be built inside the lens) A tool that will be a pleasure to use, easy as that. Is it not important factor to you ?? |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|