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Old Apr 14, 2007, 7:55 AM   #11
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slipe wrote:
Some stabilized cameras have a mode you can leave on when panning, but it doesn't really help the image. You would normally turn the stabilization off when panning to follow a horse.
I disagree. Image stabilization uses accelerometers to measure changes in velocity. The camera takes these measurements and shifts either the image sensor or an optical element to counteract the effect of shake in the image.

Notice. I said that accelerometers measure CHANGES in velocity. When you are trying to hold the camera still (the velocity is zero), but unfortunately you induce some involuntary shake to the camera, the accelorometer measures this change in velocity, so the camera can do whatever it does to correct the situation. When you are panning smoothly, the accelerometer does not interpret this movement as a change in velocity, because the veleocity is constant.So if you happen to shake the camera while panning, the accelerometer will detect this change in velocity, and the camera can correct for it. So image stabilization does correct for camera shake during panning, albeit less effectively if you aren't panning perfectly smoothly.

Case in point:
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Old Apr 14, 2007, 8:13 AM   #12
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I have just purchased my first dslr, the Pentax k100d that mtngal referred to. It is a great camera but I am learning that any dslr has quite a learning curve to it.

I was using a Kodak6490 and although the pictures were actually very good it was difficult to capture anything with movement because it was so slow. A friend of mine has a Sony H5 and I am very impressed with that little camera. It is much faster than my old Kodak and she can get some really beautiful shots. It has a nice long zoom as well. Sony is coming out with two new H series the H7 and H9. You might want to consider one of them or go for the H5 which is well under your budget and from everything I have read, a very good camera. It is bigger than a pocket camera but still a little on the small side so if you have big hands you might not feel comfortable holding it.

I have learned that lighting is critical to the success of the picture in that the time of day you shoot has a big effect on the outcome. Horses in the distance would not be quite so much of a problem but any close ups are much more difficult depending on the light. In poor light Bays will lose alot of detail because they are so dark. On the other hand, in bright sun, (good for the Bays) white horses or any white on the horse tends to be blown. Closeups are also much easier if you have someone to help you unless you have a long zoom. If you are limited in your focal length and need to get close to the horse to get a good head shot, be warned. Horses like to see if that thing you are holding tastes good!

With just about any camera, a shot that involves movement is benefitted by good light.

Image stabilization may not help with the movement of the horse but it is a great asset to shaky hands of the photographer. When I am trying to get a good head shot I focus on the eyes of the horse by pressing the shutter button half way and then I wait to try and catch both ears forward instead of off to side looking like a donkey. That's where the stabilzation can really help.

And, believe it or not, the personality of the horse can have an effect on whether it is a keeper or not. Our TB's and Arab, by nature, tend to be much more alert looking and as a result I have far more keepers of them. You know, ready to spook at the pass of a butterfly! QH's and WB tend to be so laid back that it is difficult to catch them looking anything but doofy! That's where a helper can come in handy by rustling a bag of carrots.

I'm sorry this got so long but a really nice dgicam like the Sony H5,7, or 9 maybe just what you need. They are great cameras.
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