I have Pan lumix fz20&Kodak dc3400, I NEED a camera tha

[meanstreak]

Herb wrote:

KikididiRN,

I incline to agree with meanstreak. Why don't you just try setting the Mode dial to P & then use the Lumix just as you've been using your Kodak? According to the specs, P is Program AE which is a point-n-shoot simple mode.

Herb

I'm inclined to believe that a major issue may also be size and weight, since just about any camera can be used like a point and shoot. Some point and shoots also have more scene modes, which consumers seem to like.

I might add that thougha DSLR may be used in P&S mode, one major differnence is that the amount of in-camera processing between P&S and DSLR models. The defaultDSLR in-camera processingis not bolstered up as high as P&S models. On my KM 7D I boost the color and sharpness up one notch for the JPG image but I save a raw copy just in case I am not happy with how the camera processes my shot. Truthfully, in most cases, I can get away by just doctoring up the JPG in Paint Shop Pro.

[KikididiRN]

here are a couple pics, not sure on the size so ill try just one first

[KikididiRN]

another

[KikididiRN]

and one more

[meanstreak]

KikididiRN wrote:

and one more

Looks like using a faster shutter speed and higher ISO may help. What ISO setting are you using? I tried looking at the EXIF image information but it has been removed from your images. The drawback to your current situation is that it's a Lumix and high ISO over 200 is not usually a viable option. The last image you posted should have had less blur because there shouldn't have been much subject movement, except maybe the child,but it's hard to tell exactly whatyou are doing wrong since there is no image info. That one may be just a focus and or shakey hand issue. Try to tell us as much as you can about your settings.

I think a Fuji F10 or F30 might help, but you may want toexperiment with changing some shooting modes or styles firstif you haven't already been there done that. Truthfully even if are able to make adjustments and see improvements, I don't think it will help 100 percent with the action shots.

[KikididiRN]

ok ill post a relatively good pic in great light, but this isnt an action shot so probable no blur, is there an application i can use that will show you my exif info? ill try this pic.

Truthfully even if are able to make adjustments and see improvements, I don't think it will help 100 percent with the action shots. so are you saying no brand camera will help with my action shots?

thx for trying to help

Diane aka KikididiRN

[Herb]

KikididiRN,

Those shots certainly show why you're not satisfied. I find it hard to judge whether it's just that they're out of focus or whether there was camera shake or whether subjects moved - or it could have been all three. I doubt very much that the camera's size & weight are to blame, because extra weight tends to reduce camera shake.

When I suggested using the camera with the mode dial set to "P" I had outdoor shots in mind. For indoor action shots like those you showed us, I suggest that as a start you set the Mode dial to "A" & then try a few shots with the largest aperture available. I think that's F2.8.

Also - for the indoor shots - was the flash working? I'm not sure about the Lumix FZ20, but on my wife's old Fuji 1700MX (tarted up & sold as a Leica Digiluz zoom) there's a flash setting that operates the flash whenever the camera thinks it's needed. She usually leaves it at that setting.

Herb

[mtclimber]

After looking at the earlier photo samples, I am beginning to suspect that the problem is not the exposure, but the shutter speed used to take the photos. The last photo sample has a bit of over exposure, but is otherwise OK. The reason that it is OK is because it was taken outside with plenty of light, whereas the indoor wrestling shots were taken indoors where the lighting level was a good deal lower.

To move toward an effective solution, may I ask a few questions.

(1) What was the ISO setting used for the two wrestling photos?

(2) Are you using the two step shutter release technique?

The two step shutter release is first pushing the shuter release half way down to allow the camera to BOTH focus the photo and to set the exposure, then fully depressing the shutter release to take the photo.

(3) Was any flash used in the two wrestling photos?

(4) If flash was used, how far away from the subject were you?

(5) Do you think that there might have been some camera movement during the photo exposure?

Thanks for helping to solve this situation.

MT

[KikididiRN]

im not sure of the answers to those question right now as they were took last march. I do know i used a flash.



Please give me suggestions Im gonna give the panasonic a try at a wrestling tourny this weekend, it willbe in a gym with low lighting as usual. this will be first action, low light shots ive tried since the last attempt in march.

Please help!

thanks

Kikididi

[mtclimber]

First of will you be able to use flash? If the answer is yes, how far away will you be? If you are not using flash, you will certainly have to increase your ISO speed to probably 400. Be sure the Panasonic is in the Program mode and keep track of your shutter speed. If the shutter speed becomes 1/50th of a second or less, you are in for blurry photos.

MT