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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2
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What is the best camera, 5 megapixels or better that offer anti-shake.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 18,143
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Think about it please, do you REALLY need "anti shake."
MT |
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#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2
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Unfortunately this feature may help my photo taking, seems my photos are blurry unless I use a tripod and timer. Old person old hands.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 921
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What kind things you photograph?
Is it just general photography? In that case good wide angle is much more useful than ultrazoom without wide angle. What size it should be? One which fits to pocket? Then is there is there any other plusses... Like chance for easy manual settings if necessary? Mechanical zoom? (definitely easier, faster and way more accurate than button zooms) And what kind "budget" you have? mtclimber, what is this hostility against image stabilisation? Or maybe it's that your/media's favorite big PR budget brand (/camera) doesn't have such too high technology-level feature except automatic blowing up ISO and noise? |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon, USA
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ET-
I am sorry if my post seemed to reflect any hostility. That was certainly not my intent at all. I was just curious. The term "anti shake" is a term used only by Fuji Photo. Most people usually use the IS designation. I apologize to all for any misunderstanding. MT |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 66
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I know the Fuji "anti blur" is not IS and perhaps the IS works better for camera shake. As I don't own a camera with IS I can't say. I will say that the Fuji 5200's anit blur works well for me in that I've been able to get good long zoom and low lightish pictures hand held and I have a very shakey hand due to tremor.
Ruth |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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Considering usefulnes of IS this is good reminder, ordinarily longest "shake-free" shutter speed you can use is 1 second divided by used 35mm eq. focal length.
Which means at 200mm it's 1/200s and at 400mm 1/400s etc. So in dimmer light you hit this limit really fast. mtclimber wrote: Quote:
I've been long saying this... there should be really much tighter limits for advertising and lies in those should be punished seriously. Also reviewers should punish from those lies. And actually Anti-Shake means real IS with KonicaMinolta, instead of moving lens it's based to moving CCD. It enables 2-3 stops longer shutter times, also it works damn nice with video clips... taking those reveals shaking very well. (also this means all lenses are "stabilised" with KM's DSLRs) Hmmm... Maybe KM could file suit against Fuji for using that name and distorting meaning of it. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indian Rocks Beach, FL
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You have a pretty wide range available. If you want long zoom range in a larger camera consider the Panasonic FZ5 & FZ20, Canon S2IS and Sony H1 for 5Mp. If you want 8Mp the choices are the Panasonic FZ30 or Nikon 8800. In the 5Mp I prefer the FZ5 for size and the S2IS for features. The FZ20 has the fastest and probably best lens. In the 8Mp the 8800 is an f-stop slower at full zoom, which reduces the effectiveness of the stabilization. But the FZ30 is particularly noisy.
For pocket cameras with true stabilization you are pretty much limited to Panasonic. The FX9 is an excellent little camera, albeit with no manual controls or viewfinder. None of the small Panasonics have viewfinders. If you want full controls and a wide angle lens in a compact (not sub-compact) camera, the LX1 is interesting. For a small stabilized camera with a 6X optical zoom the LZ2 is a decent choice. The Konica Minolta A200 is a truly excellent camera with lots of features. You get wide angle to medium telephoto and pretty good in-camera noise reduction. Dpreview says ISO800 is useable and it has good noise qualities throughout the ISO range. The Fuji S9000 is a nice camera without true mechanical stabilization. The Fuji approach is to give you better ISO capabilities so you can use a faster shutter speed. Stabilization is good only to reduce hand shake, where a higher ISO will work for a moving subject in available light as well. I have a preference for true stabilization, but the S9000 might be a more versatile camera overall. |
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#9 | ||
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 921
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slipe wrote:
Quote:
Like this shows high ISO capability of it isn't spectacular in any way: (unlike F10, although lack of noise in F10's highest ISO shots is achieved with heavy "watercolor" filtering) http://www.videozona.ru/photo_tests/...Z30_page05.asp If they would have retained megapixels in same level as in F10 their claims would be about true. Now that much touted advantage is actually quite small. (like I've said, it's job of PR/advertising department to "sell car as sport model even if it has only chainsaw engine") Considering difference between IS and higher ISO, IS wins in other aspects expect moving targets. (of course having both would be best) Actually results of one comparison between top of the class prosumer and DSLR were really surprise to me. (KonicaMinolta A2 and Canon 20D) Quote:
So I think it hits the point if I say all cameras are compromises. Those very long zooms sacrifice wide angle (zoom lens from real wide angle to long tele is extremely hard to do without distortions and big size) and higher ISOs for making zoom with long tele possible in small size. (smaller sensor makes longer zooms possible in convenient size) And camera's with good wideangle and larger sensor has to sacrifice that longest reach of tele to keep size convenient. (that Samsung 815 is really big compared to all non SLRs) Also it looks like every camera maker has delusion that it's their right to call camera as prosumer even if it lacks good/easy manual control possibilities (menu surfing doesn't count as such), mechanical zoom, two control dials, real wide angle and such. So before immediately rushing like headless chicken for those ultrazooms with long tele I would recommend waiting answers to questions in my first reply. |
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