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Old Dec 4, 2006, 8:16 PM   #11
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BJ-

The Fuji S-6000fd (face detection is a nice feature) that I use sells for $374 at http://www.buydig.com with free shipping. It does not have what you referred to as "...an anti motion sensor..." It is up to the photographer to keep the camera still.

The attached Fuji S-6000 photo was taken at ISO 800 (in error, I had previously listed it as ISO 1600), it was handheld, the shutter speed was 1/34th of a second, and no flash was used.

MT/Sarah
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Old Dec 4, 2006, 8:59 PM   #12
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bj5011 wrote:
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i just would like a reliable and versatile one around 500 more or less... if the fuji combines reliability, functions, zoom, and versatility for a more advanced amatuer then i guess thats the winner.
as long as your indoor subjects are completely stationary then yep, it should fit the bill. If your subjects are going to move at all then it may not be the right tool for the indoor work. But you can't have everything :-) Every choice has it's drawbacks.
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Old Dec 4, 2006, 9:08 PM   #13
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John-

I disagree with you on your post. The subjects do not have to be perfectly still. The photographer always has control of the shutter speed. My sample photo was at ISO 800 a 1/34th of a second shutter speed.

I could have always increased the ISO to 1600 or even 3200 ( not as desireable) and increased the shutterspeed.

MT/Sarah
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Old Dec 4, 2006, 10:18 PM   #14
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mtclimber wrote:
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John-

I disagree with you on your post. The subjects do not have to be perfectly still. The photographer always has control of the shutter speed. My sample photo was at ISO 800 a 1/34th of a second shutter speed.

I could have always increased the ISO to 1600 or even 3200 ( not as desireable) and increased the shutterspeed.

MT/Sarah
OK - let's see your ISO 3200 1/400 f2.8 shots of a moving subject?

Or your 1/500 f2.0 ISO 1600 shots.

You had an aperture of 3.5. What happens when you need 2.0 to get the shutter speeds you need to stop movement?

Even at ISO 3200, that means the shutter speed would be 1/136 - a far cry from shutter speeds necessary to stop motion.

Tell me what you would do then? Does the aperture go down to 1.8? If not, and if you can't wait for your subject to stop moving, tell me how the camera will magically stop the action. It's simple rules of exposure. It's also a matter of shutter lag and servo focusing - neither of which comes into play in the photo you've displayed. Again, not knocking the cameras but these shots you keep posting show no movement. In fact as you've pointed out in the past, you wait for movement to halt. That may not be desirable. I just think it's misleading to try and claim a camera like this is every bit as good at low light photography as a DSLR - especially with a brigth prime.
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Old Dec 4, 2006, 11:17 PM   #15
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John-

With all due respect to your great sports photos, you are confusing the issue, I truly believe than I can never get the photos than you can with your Canon 20D and your expensive lenses. I have owned and used a Canon 20D extensively myself. I do training for CanonI am not a fool. All I am saying is the the $US 374 Fuji S-6000fd camera does a good job when it is compared to your almost $US 2,000 Canon 20D rig with some very classy lenses. You are operating with an outfit that virtually costs more than5 times the cost ofmy Fuji S-6000fd.

Our job here is to encourage folks to get the most out of their equipment, no matter what its cost. Some folks will not be able to afford a Canon 20D camera and those great lenses. So all I am attempting to do is to show how they can get the very most out of less than $US 400 equipment.I will never surpass your photos, John.And quite honestly, John, I never expec to do that. I am just attempting to encourage the little guys, who cannot afford to spend that much on a great set-up like yours.

I have had and for the most part still have and actively use the big DSLR equipment, because I have to teach it. ButI also have and use a wide range of digicams as well. As I teach them as well. I just like to show folks how they can come close, but never turly compete with the big DSLRS.

MT/Sarah
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 8:11 AM   #16
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sarah,

i am at this point getting confused again. could you folks take my needs and point me in a direction for a 500 or less camera. i take scenery, buildings, candid shots of people, both indoor and outdoor shots, and night shots of both sites and people. zoom is also important. my fz5 took most fine. it failed at indoor shots where lighting was very weak and also on shots where it wasnt sports but the object was moving. it seems i need a camera with high iso ability and low aperature capability. does the fuji s6000 accomplish this menu. if not then what other units can get me there. thanks all.
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 9:27 AM   #17
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by the way, i cant even find the fuji s6000 on the fuji website. is it an old model? i did see the 5600 and the 6500. how do they compare?
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 10:20 AM   #18
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bj-

I apologize for the confusion. I had assumed that because of your excellent english and because you had listed no location where you lived, that you lived in the USA. The camera I have been referring to is sold in the USA as the Fuji S-6000. Overseas it is sold as the Fuji S-6500. The are exactly the same camera.

MT/Sarah
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 10:27 AM   #19
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bj-

The Fuji S-6000/s-6500 because it is able to use high ISO settings without showing much visible noise, overcomes the noise problems of the Panasonic FZ-5 when used at high ISO settings.

In addition, that same ability to usehigh ISO settings allows the S-6000/s-6500 to usefaster shutter speeds with a smaller apertures which is something specific that you desire. The camera has 10.7X of optical zoom as well as a 28mm wide angle.

Therefore, bj, the S-6000/S-6500 very specifically meets all of your needs rather nicely. I will be happy to discuss specifically any type of shos you desire and how the Fuji S-6000/S-6500 could handle those tasks quite easily. By the way where do you live?

MT/Sarah
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 1:11 PM   #20
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Not trying to confuse the issue at all. But, kids and adults move fast too - it's not running that you have to worry about it's head and hand movements. So, the point I try to make applies to non-sports.

The 6000 has very good high ISO ability but does not have a wide aperture. So, you may not get the ability to take shots of moving subjects indoors if the lighting isn't great. But as I said, there are always sacrifices. Given all your criteria, it sounds like a good option. I just wanted to set expectations that it probably won't get you the shots of a moving subject because it doesn't have a wide enough aperture. The trade-off is: if you really need that capability you have to go the DSLR route and incur the expenses and bulk associated with that route.

Hope that made some sense.
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