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Old Dec 5, 2006, 6:28 PM   #21
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I hear what you're saying Sarah. One of the things that is attractive about high iso capable cams (to me) is that the majority of ppl in my family have blue eyes.... Can you say R-E-D-E-Y-E in a major way in low light/flash pix? If the Nikon S7c was a little more ergonically designed with it's on/off, and shutter release...
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 7:09 PM   #22
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itzme,

According to the EXIF data, all four of those pics were properly exposed, properly focused, and there were no blur warnings given. So what went wrong? Maybe a little camera shake...looked like it was pretty cold out there that night, and the shutter speeds were a little slow a 1/120 on shots 1 & 2.

There was quite a bit of grain apparent, which is to be expected at ISO 3200. Oddly enough, the pic I considered the worst, #2, was taken at ISO 1600. Pic #4 actually wasn't that bad...a little noise reduction and a little sharpening might help. I tried a quick fix with some demo software...hope you don't mind...

the Hun




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Old Dec 5, 2006, 7:32 PM   #23
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Nice fix for that shot Rinnie, yes the F30/31fd are great if the user is prepared to use an image-editor, but as can be seen both here and on the Fuji forum on dpreview and Pbase95+% shoot these cameras in auto and can't understand why their shots are not as good assome of the fantastic one's they see on the forums which have been edited.
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 7:35 PM   #24
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Irene - how far away were you when taking those photos? Have you looked at the Nikon S8 - I really liked it but now that you mention about the on/off and shutter release I might look again. My husband just came in and said - are you still reserching those cameras? I find it so hard. This will be my third camera since March 2005. I think it is great you were able to borrow a F30. Have you tried taking photos in normal daylight and close up? I also use my photos with ProShow Gold and make slide shows with music. I think as your son said - we take a stab at it and there is always another camera. I just took a quick photography course for my 10x zoom Fuji and the instructor was saying that they have gone so far that there is not much more they can do for cameras except add extras. I must thank everyone here for their comments that do help in this confusing situation.

Shari
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 7:39 PM   #25
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Now I'm really confused. Someone on another forum said that I would have much more control over the blur by using a camera with a viewfinder. That holding the camera out to take the photo causes blur even with a stabilizer.
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 7:45 PM   #26
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Irene-

Both Wirraway and Rinnie raise a good point. Irene, where are you with regard to post processing of your photos? Considering that you were using the Auto mode on the F-30, your photos were within reason. Using the F-30in the M for Manual Mode, which on the Fuji F-30 is the digicam equivalent of the P for Program Mode will provide and it will provideeven better results.

The other factor in play in that stadium photo environment is that it might well seem very bright to your eyes, but the camera did not see the light level that way. Sometimes our eyes confuse us. The biggest flaw I could see in the F-30 stadium photos was the same as Rinnie noted: camera movement.

Shari asked a rather important question in her last post. Yes, when you have extended your arms and are using the LCDto frame your photo, the chance of camera movement, as you release the shutter is substantially increased. That was one of the reasons that I mentioned the Sony W-100, which has pretty good high ISO performance and a viewfinder.

With the F-30 in the M Mode, you will be able to see the shutter speed the camera is going to use for your photo when the shutter release is pushed halfway. That can tell a lot about the camera's ability to stop action in your photo or the chance of camera movement. What I see in the photos is motion blur caused by shutter speed that is too low, plus the camera movement.

If you are willing to work with the camera a bit, you will be rather surprised at the photos you actually can take. However, most folks don't want to take the time to do that. What are your feelings? Thanks in advance for your added information.

MT/Sarah



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Old Dec 5, 2006, 9:54 PM   #27
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Rinnie I don't mind at all. I actually started doing that also playing with demo software when I said "wait a minute - isn't it better to find out what's wrong so I can get either better pictures with technique or equipment...

Hmmm processing.... let's see... I own Paint Shop Pro 9 - no idea how to use it... I'm doing a trial of PSP XI - that one I can make work for very basic fixes... I'm also doing a trial of PhotoShop Elements - that one seems to have things that I can make work... I have Picasa, ACDSee... But beyond the most basic quick fixes... forget it.. but I'm learning... I actually recently removed dust and stains from other pictures taken with an AWFUL Casio camera that I was testing... So I was very proud of myself for that.

Thanks for the insight into what's wrong with the pictures... I guess I didn't think of movement factor. I guess I thought blur warning would have iindicated movement...

Irene
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 10:07 PM   #28
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Shari, I think my husband took all 4 of the posted pictures... how far away he was, I'm not sure.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"I think Sarah mentioned that the Nikon S8 isn't available here (I'm in NJ). We have the S6, the S7C, and the S10. A friend of mine bought the S10 and is thrilled with the pix she's getting with that camera.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"I tried the S6. It didn't have vibration reduction (I don't think) but it listed in-camera auto red eye fix. I detested the way the power switch, shutter release and zoom button were these little tiny buttons all cramped on top of the camera. Seemed too easy to accidentally hit the zoom while trying to feel the shutter release and my nails could easily go into the recess of the power switch and shut the camera off instead of taking a pic. That one went back before I could really do a test. I also hunted HIGH and LOW through the manual for documentation of how to use or acitvate the auto red eye fix.... I could only find documentation about red eye reduction.

I too have been through cameras... I even have an APS film one.... I'll sell it cheeeeep, lol!!
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 10:14 PM   #29
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Sarah, I have LOTS of programs to do post processing... I'm really a novice at using them... But I am learning!

As far as movement being a reason for the blur in the pix, I can see that as a problem. I even found it when using a viewfinder. I hope it'll get better with experience... meanwhile, I have used your great tip of using the 2 second timer to help with movement which occurs with pressing the shutter! Thank you for that GREAT tip. I really want to learn how to use the camera beyond the auto mode.... I just need something with will give me half decent pix in auto mode *while* I learn new things. At least I think that's my gameplan!

Irene
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Old Dec 5, 2006, 10:33 PM   #30
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Irene, I can recommend Adobe Photoshop Elements as an image editor, there is a new Elements 5 although I use 3, there is a simple Quick-Fix but when you get into it a bit more the "Shadow & Highlights" and "Healing brush" are very handy for making images stand out and worth the purchase price.

For Noise I have both "Noise Ninja" and "Noiseware" here I use Noiseware the most.

Using these 2 stand alone programs there is not much that you cannot fix up.

Regards Wirraway
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