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Old Apr 1, 2008, 8:56 AM   #21
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Ironi624 wrote:
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I already have a light tent. It is an EZ Cube. The products are hairbows and chidren's accessories. I have an old Kodak with like 3mp. It is old and now I want to buy something better.

Obviously my pictures are going to look dull using this camera even with the light tent. I have been having problems with this camera for some time now. Like I said it is old.
It is not obvious to me that you need a new camera. At least not for producing images for the web.

Unless you already have them, I'd strongly suggest that you spend your time and money on a photo editing program and a tripod. $300 is about what it takes to get a reasonably good tripod and head that will outlast several cameras.
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Old Apr 1, 2008, 9:52 AM   #22
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What kind of photo editing program? The only one I have is Paint Shop Pro 9.

Why a tripod? Will it make my shots more stabilized? Is that what the IS does?
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Old Apr 1, 2008, 10:56 AM   #23
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Roni-

Take a look at the SX-100 Tutorial in the Canon Folder. I addressed your questions.

Sarah Joyce
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Old Apr 1, 2008, 11:50 AM   #24
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roni624 wrote:
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Why a tripod? Will it make my shots more stabilized? Is that what the IS does?
ABSOLUTELY it will make shots more stabilized. Try shooting a 1 second exposure with IS. You are dealing with a controlled shooting environment - precisely when tripod is easiest to use.

There is, unfortunately, a line of thinking that IS replaces a tripod. It doesn't. What IS buys you is flexibility - i.e. not having to carry a tripod. But it is not as stable, not as repeatable.

Now, I would say you could spend a bit less than $300 for a tripod/head WHEN you're always using it indoors and WHEN you're using a digicam and not 10 lbs of DSLR equipment.

The only caveat is - if using one for long exposures you want either a remote release on the camera or a timer - you don't want the pressing of the shutter to move the camera at all.
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Old Apr 1, 2008, 12:27 PM   #25
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John said it right about the tripod. And the way to go cheaper is to go heavier - not
a handicap for indoor use.

To emphasize a point John made: IS is not a substite for a tripod. "More
stabalized" can still be shakey. Sort of like comparing an inch thick piece of steel
with an propper anvil. The piece of steel is better than tinfoil, but you wouldn't want
to make a whole bunch of horse shoes with it.

roni624 wrote:
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What kind of photo editing program? The only one I have is Paint Shop Pro 9.
...
PSP9 is a fine photo editing program. (The last version of PSP I used was 5 and switched to PhotoShop only because of the availability of masked adjustment layers when dealing with stitching panoramas.) How well do you know how to use PSP9t? Levels? Curves? Color balancing? Masks? ... If you are not fairly adept at using it, I think you would be better using your time learning more about it instead of looking at new cameras.

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Old Apr 1, 2008, 1:15 PM   #26
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I am so so with PSP9. I know nothing about masks though.

Not only am I taking pictures indoors for my bows but I also take a ton of pictures of my children doing everyday things. Some of it is movement. I also take pics of our deer that we raise.

I have been working with our deer this morning and I did notice that when I take some of the pics they can be blurry. OF course I had the setting on Auto instead of the Programmed Auto. Also the deer were moving in some of the pics.
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Old Apr 1, 2008, 1:27 PM   #27
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roni624 wrote:
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I am so so with PSP9. I know nothing about masks though.

Not only am I taking pictures indoors for my bows but I also take a ton of pictures of my children doing everyday things. Some of it is movement. I also take pics of our deer that we raise.

I have been working with our deer this morning and I did notice that when I take some of the pics they can be blurry. OF course I had the setting on Auto instead of the Programmed Auto. Also the deer were moving in some of the pics.
As has been discussed - neither IS nor tripod will help prevent blur from your subjects moving. That's a whole different animal entirely.

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OF course I had the setting on Auto instead of the Programmed Auto.
Now, it's possible they've changed the definition of Programmed Auto. But, the only difference between Program and Auto is the fact that Program allows you to use exposure compensation. That means you intentionally force a lighter or darker image. Exposure Compensation (EC) is used when you believe the camera's way of metering the scene will yield an undesirable result (e.g. if there is something bright white in the scene the overall image may end up dark because the camera tries to protect that white object from being blown out). Program mode does NOTHING to help with obtaining photos in low light or stopping motion. It's benefit is that it allows exposure compensation. So if you don't use EC, you would get the exact same result in Program Auto that you would in Auto
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