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Old Apr 8, 2008, 5:40 AM   #11
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They're probably too large. You'll want to downsize them for posting here.

To downsize them, you can use something like the free Irfanview

After you open an image using File>Open, go to Image>Resize/Resample. Leave the box checked to retain the original aspect ratio (dimensions of width to height), and make the longest side 640 pixels. That will be fine for checking settings. Then, Save it to a new filename (so you don't overwrite your original) using File>Save As (picking a folder that you want to keep it in).

Leave the jpeg quality at around 80% and leave the boxes checked to retain EXIF (you'll see a box pop up with a jpeg quality slider when you use the Save As choice and select jpeg as the file type).

As long as they're not too large (dimensions or file size), then you can attach a photo using browse button you'll see at the bottom of your entry screen when typing a new post. You'll need to make two posts to attach two photos (only one attachment per post allowed).

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Old Apr 15, 2008, 12:54 PM   #12
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HI,
thanks for the info- the photos were not that good anyway, I will try it when I get something good-
If anyone has some more lens or camera input for geting great low noise, sharp photos using only the stage lighing, I am all ears.

Lens;
I would like to use primes (so light weight) but would I get enought DOF with several people in the photo at "different depths" on the stage? I'm just not sure and it is also nice to be able to see the beautiful stage in focus behind them.
SO I think I need zoom-?

I would like a sharp, lightweight 18 - 150mm image stabilized 2. 8 ( or 2! & would it be fast enough?) zoom, so I don't have to change it in the dark, but so far I haven't come across anything like that-
I have looked at all lens manufacturers.
I need close ups( 100mm & up) & full cast phots ( 18mm & up)

Did look at a monopod, but would prefer to do without it - and the flash.

Camera;
Light weight; Looking at Nikkon D60 or D 80, Canon Rebel 400 or 450 OR 30D (40 D is to big & heavy) OR Sony Alfa 200, 300 or 700.
Most imortant;
fast A/F in low light and low noise. NIce Jpeg IQ. Don't want to do RAW just yet...
Some say Nikon has less noise at high ISO, others Canon or Sony...
I appreciate ANY idea or suggestions-
I have been doing soo much reading, I just want to go out and photograph already!
I even looked at the 5D for fun - nice...

Carina


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Old Apr 15, 2008, 2:43 PM   #13
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Carina wrote:
Quote:
Lens;
I would like to use primes (so light weight) but would I get enought DOF with several people in the photo at "different depths" on the stage? I'm just not sure and it is also nice to be able to see the beautiful stage in focus behind them.
SO I think I need zoom-?

I would like a sharp, lightweight 18 - 150mm image stabilized 2. 8 ( or 2! & would it be fast enough?) zoom, so I don't have to change it in the dark, but so far I haven't come across anything like that-
I have looked at all lens manufacturers.
I need close ups( 100mm & up) & full cast phots ( 18mm & up)
It still comes down to what the lighting is like WHERE YOU ARE SHOOTING. Stage lighting varies greatly. It doesn't matter what the lighting is like in a venue where Sarah has shot or where Jim has shot. The only conclusion is that the lighting varies greatly.

DOF will definitely be an issue with a DSLR. If you have a situation like Jim's gymnastics shot, it will be almost impossible to have multiple subjects in focus AND sharpness / detail - i.e. if you use a 50mm 1.8 from 50 feet away you'll have enough DOF but no real detail. That may be OK for shots where you want the background because it's large enough to not require detail. But trying to get detail in the PEOPLE will be very tough. So, in low light situations where you need to stop some motion blur (not a lot but some) you can either have sharpness or deep dof but you can't have both (because to get both you need a narrower aperture which you can't use because of the motion blur).

If your lighting is as good as in the one shot from Sarah, you'll be able to get some depth of field. But there's a big difference between f6.3 (sarah's shot) and f2.5 (Jim's shot) - the lighting in Sarah's shot is 3.5times as bright.

Zoom vs. prime won't make a difference for DOF - it will make a difference with regard to flexibility. Whether 2.8 is good enough depends entirely on the environments YOU are shooting in. In some environments it is enough - in others, it is not. The more professional the venue I'm guessing the better the lighting would be.
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 7:57 PM   #14
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Folks-

Let's be honest. As photographers we have no control at all over the quanity or qualityof lighting. We are just out there attempting to record the event. It is as simple as that.

So you honestly have to accept what you get. You honestly never know what it will be like untill you pull the camera up to take the photo. There really is no magic, no super lens, it is all up to you as the photographer.

It is neither light nor heavy, this lens or that lens. It will take some serious experimentation. You become smarter with each production you shoot. So, IMHO you have to begin shooting, then adjust as necessary based on your own experience. There is really no science about it. You learn through your hands-on experience in theather photography. Folks, it is constantly changing and evolving.

Sarah Joyce
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