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Old Feb 2, 2009, 1:13 PM   #11
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Thanks for nailing that down, TCav. That's a big help although it also kind of sinks my hopes of getting the budget entry DSLR (I had seen this here, but it now appears it's wrong and I was confused when I saw that [#8] after looking like crazy through Steve's review on the K200D and not finding it: http://www.photoreview.com.au/Pentax...tax-k200d.aspx). I'll either have to save up for a K20D or save up more and get something else, since I've always had at least a luminosity histogram to help me compose the shot (I've never done it strictly based on only knowing what aperture/shutter speed to use for most situations). It sure changes things but I thank you for the info. I guess I'll have to find a good book that is based more on "here's the shutter speed and aperture values you'd likely use when shooting [this]," as the current one I have doesn't offer many direct tips like that (it's mostly for understanding how to compose a shot).
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Old Feb 2, 2009, 1:38 PM   #12
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Because of subtle difference from one shot to the next of the same subject, you should always at least use the camera's autoexposure system as a guide, not some generic guide. But if you are so inclined, you can use exposure bracketing to get multiple exposures with slightly different settings.
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Old Feb 2, 2009, 1:56 PM   #13
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Yeah, that does make sense about the subtle differences, since I would notice the luminosity histogram in live view on my S3 IS would change based on where I focused, what light metering mode I'd use or where (when I use it) I'd focus on to use the exposure lock then choose another focus point and reshoot.

Hm...that's a good suggestion and I'm not surprised I didn't think of it (using the autoexposure readings on screen). It kind of rescues the idea of the purchase a tad but I'll still have to really think it over. I remember the one time so many moons ago I did pick up my dad's Canon film SLR that it had a light meter where the indicator would point to show if the light in the frame was balanced/over/under where it should be ideally. Since I'd have to go by the settings the camera's autoexposure system thinks would be good without the help I get from a luminosity histogram now (and I know it's not infallible either, as I've shot pictures slightly over or under what appeared 'balanced' at the time and got a better picture than the histogram would have led me to believe).

More to think over. Thanks more the additional input, TCav
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Old Feb 2, 2009, 3:58 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the info TCav.
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Old Feb 2, 2009, 4:28 PM   #15
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You might want to check out some of the Olympus dslrs. They have a package deal on some of the 400 and 500 series with two lenses. They use a 4/3 system and you can crop respectably twice what the lense says. The kits come with a 14 42 and a 40 150 lens. This gives you up to 300mm on the 40 150. Or you can get the camera body and go with a 70 300 lense which is equivalent to 600mm. If you shop around you should be able to find say a 510 kit or the body and a 70 300 for around 600 dollars. The 4/3 system has a slightly smaller sensor although much larger than the bridge cameras and therefore allows a smaller camera body such as the 420 and smaller lenses to be used. Just a thought but check out the video review of the 510 or 520 on cameralabs.com. It's a lot of camera for the price in my opinion.
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Old Feb 2, 2009, 7:24 PM   #16
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A word of caution...

They (Circut City) are broke and you are actually dealing with a liquidation company. Make absolutely sure you want that particular camera and make sure the thing is properly packaged and undammaged before you leave the store.

There will be no return and they could care less if they satisfy you or not.

Greg


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Old Feb 2, 2009, 8:35 PM   #17
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I appreciate the Evolt E-520 suggestion, but it was actually that cameralabs review that pushed me towards the Pentax K200D in a major way--notably by the picture comparisons with the Canon 450D and E-520. While the reviewer said the K200D was somehow using more processing to improve the result and while I'm not the technician I wish I could be...the results are hard to dismiss. The Sensor on the K200D royally spanks the E-520 and the K200D's low-light performance is just as superior, as reflected by DxO's tests here (http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/185|0/(appareil2)/277|0/(appareil3)/221|0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Pentax/(brand3)/Olympus). While I can't elaborate in a technical way on the test results alone, it's odd how well the test results corroborate the results in the pictures I saw between the 3 cameras at cameralabs, so I consider the DxO tests to be substantial in that regard. While I'm not completely discounting the Olympus 4/3 offering in the E-520, I'm saying I'd rather wait for Olympus to significantly beef up all the categories the DxO labs tests show it's behind on and they can come out with another model that comes in at around the same price later on...I might bite. It's just that I'm a point right now that I either need to learn enough to perhaps get to the point I could shoot with a K200D without the histogram to compose the shot or just wait till someone gets a model with live view with the K200D's same performance into the same price range it is currently. :roll:
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