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Old Sep 14, 2009, 10:45 PM   #311
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Well friends I went on a hunt to find the Sony H-20 to try out in my hands and the local camera stores did not have it. But Best Buy did. I bought it Thursday. Friday, I took it to an outdoor day time horse show. Saturday, a football game, and a circus! These are some pretty good tests for if I would like it well enough to live with it or not.

I had this theory that I might need to just go with a smaller lighter cheaper camera to get me through the short term while I save up for something more serious like a DSLR.

Shall I show you how it worked out for me?
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 11:24 PM   #312
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Shooting with the Sony H20

I found that most of the time I liked what I could do by changing the settings in P mode better than what the camera would pick in iAuto.

Here are a few pictures of some friends showing their horses that I thought might make a good case study for how the camera could do at stopping action. I found that I did better by upping the ISO to 400 and setting the white balance etc. and not using the sports scene mode.

This picture was cropped about 25%. This is my first time uploading pictures here. I hope I am doing it right.

[/IMG]

Last edited by ritap; Sep 14, 2009 at 11:25 PM. Reason: Fix link for picture
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 11:27 PM   #313
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Here are a couple more of this action:

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Old Sep 14, 2009, 11:38 PM   #314
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For a 10x zoom point and shoot I guess this is OK. Something I noticed is that the Sony H20 does not have a view finder, so when I was using continuous shooting and the action was moving forward and I needed to follow with the camera I could not tell if I was still pointing at it or not. So think about that friends when you are choosing your camera even if it is a point and shoot.

Rita
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 12:15 AM   #315
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Here is a football picture from way over at the sidelines and cropped very close afterwards.


Rita
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 1:35 AM   #316
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More pictures from the Sony H20:

The real test is the Circus where it was dark and there was action.

A few were OK when the action stilled for a moment and could be caught. But the real action of the juggler and the trapeze could not be caught.



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Old Sep 15, 2009, 8:27 AM   #317
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ritap

All of your photos appear to be overexposed (too bright, resulting in blown highlights, black turning to gray, etc.). My guess is that you made a settings change causing it. The overexposure is also contributing to more blur (since the overexposure is being caused by the camera using shutter speeds that are too slow for the lighting, aperture and iso speed).

For example, setting metering to Spot would cause the overexposed photos of darker horses, because if you meter on a darker area, the camera will try to brighten it enough to make it a mid gray. You have to meter on a neutral area (not too bright or too dark) if you use spot metering.

Or, you may have Exposure Compensation set to a +EV value (which is designed to give you a brighter exposure compared to the way the camera metered the scene).

Note that when you have a lot of dark in an image, you will sometimes need to use a -EV setting with Exposure Compensation to prevent overexposure, regardless of metering mode. So, I'd review your images as you're shooting and adjust for correct exposure.

Note that the first few inside circus photos were also overexposed, and appear to have a white balance issue (they are too "warm", so I'd try a tungsten/incandescent white balance setting when shooting in that type of lighting).

Unfortunately, the editor you used to downsize those photos stripped out the EXIF information. So, we can't tell what camera settings were being used.

I'd suggest downsizing them using something like the free Irfanview. After opening an image with it (File>Open), look under Image>Resize/Resample. I'd make the longest side around 640 pixels, leaving the retain aspect ratio box checked. I normally select the Lanczos algorithm for resizing. Then, when you save the image after resizing (File>Save As), select jpeg as the file type and set the JPEG Quality slider you'll see pop up to around 80%. That will probably get the file size within limits as long as the image is downsized to smaller dimensions first. Make sure to leave the retain EXIF box checked so that members can see the metadata for camera settings used.

If you are using something like Photoshop for downsizing, do not use "Save for Web" (as that strips out the EXIF information from the image header). Use "Save As" instead.
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 11:05 AM   #318
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Thank you for sharing your pictures Rita - I appreciate them very much. Jim, would her camera be able to get 'better' pics (I do not mean that as a critism at all Rita) if she had used different settings as you described above. Would a dslr be able to take a good pic of this action in auto mode? Would a dslr take the same kind of pics in auto mode as a point and shoot camera?
Thanks,
t
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 11:07 AM   #319
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Sarah,
The photos taken with the point and shoot Sony seem darker. Would you be able to explain why that is.
Thanks,
t
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 11:14 AM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcn1991 View Post
Thank you for sharing your pictures Rita - I appreciate them very much. Jim, would her camera be able to get 'better' pics (I do not mean that as a critism at all Rita) if she had used different settings as you described above.
Absolutely, they're very overexposed. My guess is that a setting was changed from defaults causing more overexposure than you'd normally see in those conditions. But, I can't tell the camera settings being used in order to offer better suggestions (since the editor used to downsize them stripped out the metadata information from the image headers).

Quote:
Would a dslr be able to take a good pic of this action in auto mode? Would a dslr take the same kind of pics in auto mode as a point and shoot camera?
You've got a number of variables involved (subject color/ brightness and more), and each camera will tend to have slightly different metering behavior. Chances are, Auto mode would work better than what you see in those images with most cameras. But, you really have to take them on a case by case basis. Once you learn a given camera model's metering behavior, it's pretty easy to adjust exposure for the conditions you're shooting in.
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