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Old Aug 8, 2010, 7:24 PM   #41
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Yes, the difference is speed. For storing video, or for continuous shooting, you need a Class 6 card at least. If you'll never record video and never shoot continuous, then a Class 4 or even Class 2 will be fine.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 7:40 PM   #42
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I would class 6, it is not much more then a class 4, and will help if you end up shooting raw. Also check on ebay for the hood, not sure if UK pentax provides hoods for the lenses.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 8:09 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by ConorKennedy View Post
What would be the difference between using my 4GB SD card that cost maybe 8-10 and one that costs 30odds... Is it all down to write/read speed?
What would you recommend for the Pentax itself?
Yes. write speed is the main reason you may want a faster card. Once the camera's internal buffer (fast built in memory) fills up, then your camera is going to slow down to the speed it can write to a card. So, with a faster card, you'll get faster "full buffer" frame rates, as well as faster buffer flush times (how long it takes the camera to empty the contents of it's internal memory so that you can take another full speed burst of images). If you're not shooting sports using continuous drive mode, or you're not shooting video, then card speed may not be as important.

You should be able to get something like a Transcend Class 10 card for a lot less than 30 in the UK, unless you're looking at something larger than 8GB (and if you're shooting a lot of raw files and/or video, you may want to consider a larger card). Here's a quick search on amazon.co.uk for them:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_...0+sdhc&x=0&y=0

They test well and tend to have good "bang for the buck". The latest 30MB/Second Sandisk cards are a little faster. But, they cost a lot more. Here are some speed tests using multiple card readers for each card tested.

http://www.hjreggel.net/cardspeed/sp...cards-sdc.html

From what I can tell from current UK prices, there is very little price difference between the Transcend Class 6 and Class 10 cards now. So, I'd probably go with a Class 10.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 9:02 PM   #44
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Thanks for the information guys.

I'm looking into buying a backpack (possibly Lowepro), filter for the lens(es) (so they don't get scratched), spare batteries and charger, 4/8 Gb Class 4 or 6 memory card, cheap Ebay remote and possibly an intervalometer if I can afford it.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 9:14 PM   #45
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get sanyo eneloop AA batteries, low discharge is the way to go.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 9:19 PM   #46
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also a lens hood is a good way to protect the lens, for your lenses, search ebay for ph-rba and ph-rbb. Those are the 2 hoods for your lenses, if they do not come with any.

Also cheap filters degrade lenses, and can cause ghosting and flares, easy way to ruin a shot. I you do get filters to protect lenses get good ones.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 10:17 PM   #47
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Quote:
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get sanyo eneloop AA batteries, low discharge is the way to go.
As Shoturtle says, do yourself a HUGE favor, they are the best.
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Old Aug 8, 2010, 11:08 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConorKennedy View Post
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/pentax-...58320-pdt.html

Just purchased that with discount code 'SALES5'

427.49 - Not a bad deal I think

Thanks for all your input guys, just need to choose myself some accessories now

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You mentioned wanting a remote. I bought one for $2.98 a week or so ago. Hasn't come in the mail yet. I'm pretty confident it will work (way cheaper than the Pentax), bought on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old Aug 9, 2010, 9:32 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by interested_observer View Post
I am sorry but it does NOT work that way. When both lens based stabilization AND in body stabilization are used together, they cancel each other out rather than be cumulative.
Thanks for the correction. I had read in one of the lens manufacturers' web sites (Sigma?) what appeared to me to be the assertion that the stabilization they had, including in their Pentax versions of the lens, operated as I indicated. But I have no independent understanding of such things, and appreciate being corrected on this.
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Old Aug 9, 2010, 9:45 AM   #50
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Nah...

The two systems have no way to communicate with each other, so both would be trying to correct for same camera shake, canceling out each other (probably causing more versus less blur).

Sigma is now releasing stabilized versions of some lenses for bodies that have built in stabilization. But, you'd need to turn off one or the other for stabilization to work.

Here's a post on the subject, mentioning where a magazine compared the effectiveness of a Sigma lens with OS (Optical Stabilization) versus body based stabilization systems. Interestingly, they found that the body based system in the Sony A550 was better than the lens based stabilization used by Sigma. That also seems to match up to tests I've seen comparing stabilization systems elsewhere (as in the dpreview.com reviews mentioned in the post), as the newest Sony body based system appears to be pretty good.:

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/ca...ml#post1072391

Here's a much older study showing how a few different systems compare. The Nikon VR II system used in the 18-200mm took the crown for the best stabilization in that comparison:

http://web5.popphoto.com/cameras/461...ort-page2.html
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